ObsidianAura

If your screens support auto detecting inputs then whatever you power on will take over the screens. That's what I use at home. I also have a USB 3.0 hub that switches from one pc to the other for keyboard, mouse, webcam and DAC, which only cost me £18

Maybe you could get a glass case like tecware's VXR one and just fill it with RGB, then it will look any colour you want?

Ah fair enough that's pretty clear then. Unless its the Xbox pads fault? Interestingly that reminds me I used to have Bluetooth dropouts with my Xbox controller on my old laptop, and it would freeze my MX Master mouse connected via bluetooth, but switching to the official USB adaptor the problem went away. Is your xbox pad running the latest firmware?

Yes but they presumably all share the same bus/communications channel. So if the keyboard is faulting and filling up the channel with garbage it'll then cause issues for everything else. Not my field of expertise but if you remove the wireless keyboard from the equation it seems fine right?

Hmmm, now I'm wondering if there's a fault with whatever makes the wireless run on the keyboard and its causing the instability.

Have you tried stripping every peripheral away and switched to a basic usb keyboard and mouse?

For me the system drive is just for the system, everything else can be redirected elsewhere, comes to about 70GB, but I tend to just partition a larger drive so can always make it bigger if I need to.

Why do you need so much space on your system drive?

Ah I didn’t know that, thanks for enlightening me

That will give you quad channel which will give you a tiny boost in performance.

Yes this is fine, assuming your signature is accurate and you're using a 5900x for your CPU?

I thought mine was too. My GPU temps showed as low in NZXT CAM, but it wasn’t right. I’ve since stopped using that software. Might be worth leaving the side of your case just to see if the crashing happens less.

I had driver crashes on my old 980Ti a number of years ago. Turned out it was heat related. Changed the paste and I never had the problem again

That would be fine, not sure what your situation would be stock levels/ msrp wise but maybe get a 5600x over a 3700x?

I had the KFA2 Anarchy versions. This was inside my old Thermaltake Kandalf case

I liked my GTX 580 so much i bought two of them and ran in SLI. Could keep my whole flat warm with those babies! Against all odds I got a XFX SWFT Radeon RX 6700 and while its the most powerful card I've ever owned, I cant help feeling its not as good as it should be. Keeping an eye out for the 3070Ti if that's still going to be a thing.

Are you using XMP/docp/similar, or have you manually/automatically overclocked some other way? As a quick test, try opening your bios and resetting it to defaults, and see if it still does it. I've seen this behaviour from PCs that are unstable due to that bios setting.

I think bridging would work, however, but it'd be better to put a cheap gigabit switch in between those ports. That's exactly what I did. Then you don't need to worry about degradation so much, and you have the option to plug more in. In a home environment I don't think congestion would be an issue. My internet line comes in at my office. Which plugs into my router, the router then plugs into the one of the two RJ45 sockets in the wall. Both of those go through the walls down to the Living room, I only needed 1 but I was running the cable so I though why not stick two in. Plugged in on the living room side is a switch, which connects to games consoles, Ethernet backhaul for my mesh access point etc. Next to the two ports is another two ports, those go through to the dining room. I have one ethernet cable going from my switch to one of those ports. That makes one socket live in the dining room. The other is free for sending HDMI over ethernet to a TV in the dining room (I never got round to trying that though, but at least the option is there.) Doing it this way it gave me more options and avoids having a room with loads of ports on the wall.

Hi I put CAT 7 cables put in my walls before I moved in as part of a rewire. CAT 7 is kind of a waste of money IMO. Consumer networking equipment hasn't embraced it even 6 years after I put it in, and with WIFI 6E were getting close to those speeds now, although theoretically CAT 7 could do 50Gbps. Plus CAT 7 is more difficult to terminate. CAT 6 is fine. Buy some shielded ethernet, then you can go as close to your wiring as 10cm. If not you can only get as close as 40cm

That's unusual. Normally a CMOS only gets unintentionally cleared when the CMOS battery is flat and there's no mains power. So the possibilities I guess are: The PSU is faulty and the CMOS battery is flat, and an interruption in power from the PSU causes the crash and loss of settings. This seems unlikely as your motherboards probably only a couple of years old at most and if the PSU is faulty I'd expect it to crash more under load. Something is shorting the CMOS reset pins? There is a CMOS reset button on the motherboards I/O plate, is it being pressed in by something? Does it move freely when pushed deliberately? Last possibility I can think of , faulty Motherboard.

It's an interesting question, I don't think there's anyway of finding out unless someone tests for it as the manufactures don't advertise it.. For a motherboards consumption you'd have to estimate it, probably no less than 20w and no more than 80w.

Is that with the Ethernet plugged back in? It may be your NIC is faulty, or maybe some installed software is polling something and is messing stuff up and that’s why it didn’t happen with the network connected

Ha! I’m the exact same I use an H510 standard version and a Noctua NH-15s with black and white Chromax coverings. The standard H510 is fine! The elite is the waste of money IMO. Here’s a pic of my rig

Laptops are kind of temperature sensitive. It could be that your air intakes have got a bit dusty, maybe give it a quick blast of compressed air, see if that helps. Plus you've got used to playing it in the winter months (assuming you're in the northan hemisphere), that might make a small difference.

The basic H510 is not that bad, its pretty actually pretty good for GPU airflow when configured with just two fans top and rear as extraction running negative pressure, at that point airholes near the front are saturated and no amount of front fans will improve it. The but yeah the H510 Elite is stupid. It's got front RGB fans that do nothing but look pretty. One advantage of the 510 Elite is you can replace the front tempered glass with a custom mesh and get a lot more airflow but if you're going to that you're better off just getting different case in the first place.