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System Specs: ASRock x570 Steel Legend AMD Ryzen 5 3600XT Gigabyte NVIDIA RTX 3070 Gaming OC 8G 2x 16gb Corsair Vengeance DDR4 RAM @ 3200MHz 650w NZXT PSU NZXT Kraken x62 AIO CPU Cooler What's going on: My PC intermittently (almost never!) POSTs after installing new GPU. Details: Hey all, My PC just won't POST. So, I thought, hey, something must be seated incorrectly. I tried reseating everything, and no luck. Every time, my CPU and RAM lights turn on, then turn off, then my BOOT and VGA lights turn on, and sort of stay on for a while. A couple times, I actually started hearing Windows sounds (the device removed sound, etc) so it must have POSTed, but there was no video. Weirdly, when I tried to plug my GPU in to the PCI 4 slot that no one uses, it actually worked. I ran a benchmark, downloaded all the new drivers, and used it for a bit, but I knew the thing really should be installed in the PCI 1 slot instead. So I moved it back to that one, and again, no POST. Then tried moving it back to the PCI 4, no POST again. Now I just can't get it to work at all. Even tried my old GPU, while it was working just before I started this build, it doesn't work in either slot now. No idea what's going on. A bad slot maybe? A different loose connection somewhere else. Any ideas? Thank you!

*sigh* and finally, anyone somehow still following this nonsensical saga... I bought a USB ethernet adapter to just bypass the onboard adapter, and it worked for a time. For a time. Now it's back to its old terrible self. I guess the only thing would be to reinstall Windows, and maybe not even that...

Hey hey, there's been an update. A weird one. I haven't reinstalled yet (it's such a pain I'm just avoiding it), but I did find out some new things: The Xbox Controller Adapter *is* meant to show up in the Network Adapters section of the Device Manager. It still shouldn't register as an Ethernet device, but that's one minor mystery solved. Downloading the configuration utility for my specific onboard ethernet adapter (the Intel i211 Gigabit Network Controller) allows me to run something called a "connection test," along with a few others that pass. The connection test always fails, and gives me this error: This adapter does not have link. Make sure the cable is connected and the speed and duplex settings are configured correctly on the adapter and link partner. I don't know what that means and Google searching is giving me all sorts of strange responses. Running the third test in the utility, the "Hardware Test," has restored my OS's ability to tell that my Ethernet connection is working...once... However, in this state, my computer exits sleep mode on its own every 5 minutes. There is clearly some kind of packet being sent (or something....) that is waking the computer. The Windows Event Viewer logs show that the wake source is the "Power Button" which is of no help. Under the Network Adapter properties, I turned off the ability for the Adapter to wake the computer from sleep unless presented with a Magic Packet. (I think this is how consoles and some other types of devices on the same network are able to wake the computer to download a game.) In any case, restarting the computer or leaving it for long enough just reverts it to the state it was in before.

I appreciate the reply. It does look like I'm going to need to reinstall, because nothing I'm doing is working. There is a possibility that it began when I first (re)installed PIA and I didn't notice it until later when I tried to play something off of Spotify. I also weirdly got it working for a short period of time by just randomly disabling, unplugging and replugging my Ethernet connection. But on the next restart, it was back to square one. I'll update here if I do a reinstall and something changes!

Hey guys, My desktop running windows 10 just started exhibiting a really strange issue: I am getting a "no internet' message in Windows' built-in networking manager despite having full access to the internet through a browser. This, despite the adapter settings in the Control Panel showing everything working just fine. Now, I could totally ignore it all, but it turns out that any application that reads the Windows 10 settings for networking, including the Windows Apps and Spotify, think that there is no internet connection. Weirder still, it seems like the windows networking manager detects just about anything as an Ethernet device, including my Xbox Wireless Controller adapter. Every time I plug it in, it creates an "Ethernet 2" device and says that it's not connected to the internet (obviously!). Anyway, this is all deeply puzzling and I've tried the basic networking reset commands and restarting stuff. I've been using PIA, but I also uninstalled that and cleared my registry to make sure that wasn't the culprit, and it's not. Any ideas as to what might be going on? Thanks everyone!

Have you looked into MagicForce keyboards? They're not the *most* reliable, but they're in your budget and they give you a lot for your money. Low profile, partly aluminum build, slim design, a few colors to choose from, and a ton of switches to choose. https://www.amazon.com/Qisan-Mechanical-Keyboard-68-Keys-Magicforce/dp/B01E8KO2B0

Razer Green switches, like a lot of clicky switches, are loud in two places: the actual click of the click jacket, and the rattling when they bottom out. It's been my experience that the bottom out rattle is pretty bad on Razer switches. If you want clicky switches that have less of that sound, you can opt for Cherry (or clone) blues, and use O-rings. they'll still use the click, but the bottom out sound will be minimized. Also...you are not locked into Razer's ecosystem. If you just don't want to switch keyboards, you can solder in new switches. But I wouldn't recommend it.

That's the Play and Charge Kit, right? I believe you need another connector (a wireless dongle) to connect it to a computer. The cable in the kit only connects the battery to the USB power source, from what I understand. In other words, you would need either a wired Xbox 360 controller, or a Xbox 360 Wireless Gaming Receiver in order to use this controller.

Good call. I ran memtest before doing anything else on the computer and got zero errors!

Thanks! It is indeed the H500 (well, technically the "i" but it's all the same thing.) I love a clean white canvas to splash pink and cyan all over, haha. I might just post there! Feel like I'm going to be part of this community for a while. Anyway, I'm pretty sure this is solved. I reseated the DIMMs and I'm running a Blend test, and getting zero errors. I'll probably run this for a couple of hours, try out some gaming, and if I have no other issues, call it a day. Thanks so much for the help! If anything does come up, I'll probably be back.

NICE! I'm not sure mine is quite as neat. Here's a comparison, with RAM in the wrong slots and all! Also, I'll update here after reseating the DIMMs.

Good point!

First: wow, we really do have similar hardware. Down to the GPU and case. Definitely know who to go to if I'm having trouble! Second: I almost certainly do NOT have them in A2 and B2. Wow. I had no idea this was a thing.

I haven't tried gaming with it while XMP is on at 3200MHz, at least not yet. My thought was to try out Prime95 first and see what happens there, and then to try gaming if the results were good. Would you recommend just giving gaming a try and see if I run into any errors there?

I'm running a Prime95 Blend right now at 2133MHz and I'm getting zero errors. I mean, it's only been about 30 minutes, but in comparison to running it at 3200MHz, where errors popped up instantly, this seems stable. Is that generally an indicator of defective RAM, or could something else be causing that? Timings, etc? (I haven't actually adjusted anything)