EpicWaffles449

I started overclocking my “Just for fun” 5yo side-project yesterday and was met with more problems than expected… I still don’t know exactly what has been going wrong. Specs: ASUS SABERTOOTH 990FX FX-9590 Corsair H110i GTX 280 (set to 100% fan curve 24/7) R9 390X Tri-X 20GB G.SKILL DDR3-1600 EVGA SuperNOVA 1000W 80+ Gold Expected result: stable 5.1Ghz overclock on 8 cores @1.5V-ish (I know that this is too high, but it was what was recommended) Attempt #1 through 3: Overclocking attempt 1 was a step-by-step direct copy of the settings recommended in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TSj-nkrApC8&list=PLTyBHto3aSGN8yImkKp3udf2hHnLbK60f CPU Ratio: 24.5 CPU Bus Frequency: 208 AMD Turbo Core Technology: Disabled CPU offset voltage: 0.100000 Extreme OV: Allowed (*WASN’T ABLE TO FIND THIS ONE IN MY BIOS*) Spread Spectrum: Disabled (cause why not) AMD Cool n’ Quiet: Disabled Fan CTRL setting: Turbo Results: after pressing F10 to save settings and reset, the PC failed to post, and none of my displays were able to recognize it as an input (or received input) and continued running for about 30 minutes, until I decided to shut it off and start over… It once again failed to post. I then had to clear the RTC RAM using the jumper on my board, and then it posted fine. The next attempt (#2), I checked over the settings and made sure to correct anything anything that didn’t seem right and got another failure to post. Attempt #3: I then tried my own settings (@1.45V) which seemed slightly more reasonable, and I got the same problem. Attempt #4: I enabled Overclock Tuning (auto overclocking?) which went for like 5.3Ghz first try which booted fine and then (for whatever reason) wasn’t holding the overclock (even shooting down to 2.5Ghz !!!) then hard froze after running Cinebench R15 for about 5 seconds. Attempt #5: After heading back to the BIOS it then changed to a 5.146Ghz target frequency (from roughly 5.3Ghz), and I also realized that it enabled AMD Turbo Core technology by default which I disabled after I noticed it, and tried again. It booted fine, but still couldn’t hold even 5.09Ghz (which is the highest I saw it go) and once again shot down to around 2.5Ghz (jolting from 4.9Ghz down to 3.4, then 2.7, then 2.5). I can genuinely say that I DON’T THINK IT WAS THERMAL THROTTLING as it never read above 50C in the MSI Afterburner/Riva Tuner OSD or in Corsairs Software… I am still extremely overwhelmed and confused by these results… does anybody know what's going on or available to help? I would still like to overclock if possible, and I’m willing to try any recommendations given. Is it just not allowing Extreme OverVolting? This “just for fun” side project has been a real pain in the ass.

Vega 64's used are the best value, at about $250-ish per card. You could run two used Vega 64's in crossfire for the price of one at retail... just sayin'. 110FPS avg. in the Shadow of the Tomb Raider benchmark sounds pretty good to me (Vega 64 crossfire; about $500-ish used)

You could literally get 2 used Vega 64's and run them in crossfire for cheaper than a single of those cards. Just get 2 used Vega 64's for that price, it's an easy 120FPS-ish in 1440p. Or get a single Vega 64, you'd still get roughly 75FPS in 1440p with it (and at only $250 per card). New cards aren't good value. Always buy used last-gen for best price to performance.

LG V30 $166.53 CDN ($125 USD) on eBay New & Lightly used: *LINK REMOVED* (usual price is $650 CDN on amazon!!) Specs: -6 inch P-OLED 1440 x 2880 18:9 display (~537 ppi) -128GB storage & 4GB of RAM -Dual Main camera (16MP+13MP) -Snapdragon 835 -Adreno 540 -3300mAh battery -QuickCharge 3.0 -Android 9.0 -Hi Res 3.5mm headphone jack -IP68 dust/water resistant (up to 1.5m for 30 mins) -USB 3.1 type-c -Supports Dolby Vision & HDR10 etc.

Being a liquid cooling enthusiast, I have come to consider a series of trials attempting to find a daily use sub-zero cooling solution whether reliable or not. As running groups of large Rads, all with running industrial fans cooling each individual Rad has proven not enough in reaching sub-zero temps (especially when running continuously at extremely high overclocks). I have come to attempt rather less-conventional methods in cooling my whole PC at sub-zero temps including submerging my Rads in antifreeze, and cooling the antifreeze with disassembled A/C units and or a deep-freeze, and even full-on submerging my PC (obliviously not at full on Sub-Zero temps though, that would damage the motherboard). All found the same results with unstable temps, reaching above 0 C temps (as in up to 70 C) when under full load for extended periods, further making my overclocks unstable and thermal throttle at extreme overclocks. What I'd like to hear is whether or not someone else possibly, has found better (more sub-zero inclined) liquids possible of holding my hardware stable, even if it only works with a hella janky setup. I understand that this is a rather complex question requiring mucho of experienca (my best Spanish) and likely won't get a clear answer for quite some time, but I also would like to hear some opinions on the matter and discuss the topic in general with like minds, I think this could prove to be a quite interesting topic.

Currently making a custom home sound system using hi-res car audio components with homemade speaker enclosures! I've gotten to the point now where I just gotta hook the Amp to a source and was thinking of using my motherboards onboard audio since it's got 8 Channels and outputs 24bit/192Khz, but I'm unsure where the outputs are... I use an ASUS SABERTOOTH 990FX... Outputting to a Pioneer GM-DX975 Amp, 2x Pioneer TS-Z65CH Speakers, and 2x passive crossovers followed by their respective tweeters. So where I plug in boys?

yes you have to update it, but certain motherboard manufacturers (or AMD idk) are offering a free kit for people buying Ryzen 3000 CPU's with B450 boards, so I would look into that as it is a lot cheaper than buying another CPU just to update your BIOS.

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Currently yes, but that's what the upgrade is for, I didn't want to spend $$$$ on an entirely new build if I don't have to.

In my main build, I am currently running an overclocked FX-9590 (@5.0Ghz) paired with an overclocked R9 390X TRI-X (+300 clock) and wanted an upgrade from the usual 40-55FPS I'm getting in new games. I'm pretty sure an RTX card will bottleneck my FX-9590, but I just want to double check just in case it works fine or only lightly bottlenecks. I'm just not sure that I want to stick with older-gen GPU's if I have the money for (example) a GTX 1080Ti but could also afford a used RTX card instead, I really don't wanna force myself into last-gen hardware for current-gen prices. I might have to start an entirely new build otherwise. Anyone else running a similar build that could provide some insight? btw, the rest of my build specs are on my profile if they help.

DIY Custom Passive cooled PC & Case?

but doesn't it lack hyper-threading capabilities or something. There's a reason why it's cheap.

Hisense Q9 Series (55Q9809) 55" 4K HDR Quantum Dot ULED Smart TV for $898 USD Uled gets OLED features (like super-deep blacks) with the benefits of LCD TVs (cheaper pricing, longer lifespan & better burn-in protection). You can't really do better value-wise than this TV.

I work at Walmart as a Merchandizing Associate on weekends and Fulfillment Associate weekdays after school. I'm studying Entrepreneurship & Marketing, Animation & Game design, and plan on starting my own Tech company with a grant from the ?? government, if that doesn't work out I'm not exactly sure what job to persue after school. Probably something in game design (my back-up job).

G.SKILL Ripjaws V 3600 32GB (2x16) would be my reccomendation, considering how close if not better (better value) it has over the other 3200Mhz kits. BUT (just in case) if you want RGB, that'll cost an extra $40-$60 (from G.SKILL Trident Z NEO to Trident Z RGB or Trident Z Royal) *clears throat* if you haven't yet noticed, I personally prefer G.SKILL...