Chiyawa

If the molex cable are different from each other than I see no issue. But you might want to check your cable to see its power rating (especially the current A), because it could potentially melt the cable.

Well, the slider is 0% to 50%, so yeah. Maybe it's positive though but I didn't see clearly. Mine is Gigabyte RX Vega 64 Gaming OC, so not sure if that's how the card configure. But I only see it use 330W no matter how high I set the slider. At 0%, the GPU only take around 270W full load.

Short answer: - Performance wise, not much, but can have a great impact if you're overclocking. - Damaging component wise, highly possible, but I haven't experience a PSU taking down the entire system when it decided to quit yet (probably everyone that I come across are using a reputable branded PSU even though it is cheap, such as ThermalTake Smart Series PSU). Long answer: - If the PSU can supply enough juice to your hungry component, then you won't see performance lost. However, things get a little wild if you overclock. some 'generic' cheap PSU can barely hit their advertised power so you may see your system become unstable if you consume close to 90% of its rated power. - Not many protection. Many reputable PSU has Over Temperature Protection (OTP), Over Voltage Protection (OVP), Over Current Protection (OCP), and other types of protection to make sure that the PSU and your component stay safe should the electrical outlet go hay-wire. While it's not fool proof, at least there's a chances that your expensive components survive. - Ripple voltage can reduce your components life as your Voltage Regulator Module has to work extra hard to tune the voltage of your CPU and GPU. Cheap PSU generally has higher ripple voltage. - Also lacking of efficiency means your PSU heats up at greater rate, could potentially trip Over Temperature Protection (assume it has one) if the cooling is inadequate, and could result in fire. - But still, just because it is cheap doesn't mean it is a ticking time bomb. I have a generic PSU 10 years ago that still works. Of course I don't use it on high end system, I only use it on entry level system (Pentium Gold, integrated GPU)

I see. Thanks for your input. Hmm... 5700X you say? I think I can consider it. After all, I'm considering upgrade my system. So Sapphire are better? Okay, got it. Thank you so much. Risking my 1 month salary? Well, I mean, if everything went smoothly then okay, but I don't trust online shopping if it involves a large sum of money. It's not that I don't trust the merchant, but I don't trust the delivery service. I had once receive a package that has been ripped apart, at least the delivery service caught the culprit and I got compensated... Still, with all the hassle and complicated warranty claim procedure, I still prefer physical shop, at least I can see and inspect the product, can opt for in-store 1 to 1 exchange warranty and so on.

I have 3 options for RX 6800 XT: -AsRock Phantom Gaming D OC -Asus TUF RX 6800 XT O16 Gaming -Sapphire Nitro + OC SE (a little bit expensive) So, which would you all recommend?

Ah, okay, sorry. Just got too excited. My system is listed in my profile, but here's the summary: CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 Motherboard: Gigabyte Aorus X570 Pro WiFi RAM: 2x 8GB DDR4 3600MHz Corsair Vengence PSU: Gigabyte G750H 750W Monitor: LG 29WK600 29 inch Ultra-wide 2560x1080p 75Hz. I'll be upgrading my system this year, maybe getting used Ryzen 7 3800X or something. I'm aiming for 32 inch monitor with at least 1440p 144Hz too. I know 1440p is not much ideal to go for RX 6800 XT, but well, I mean I can now consider a 4k monitor now.

I'm in a world of headache right now. I found some of my local shops selling RX 6800 XT for about RM3000 to RM3200 (USD682.31 to USD727.80) including tax RX 6700 XT on the other hand selling for RM1900 to RM2300 (USD432.13 to USD523.11) Man, should I go for RX 6800 XT? I mean, sure, they are a little over my budget but I can get almost 2x the performance at about 1.6x the price (not to mention an additional 4GB of VRAM which helps at texture mapping and 4k gaming). I know RX 6800 XT is old, but wow, that's one great bargain. I'm still not sure how much RX 7900 XT is going to sell in my area as of yet, though. So... Yeah, now this really give me a big headache. Anyway, enough rambling. Which would be the better choice? I'm thinking of going RX 6700 XT initially due to its price, but now with RX 6800 XT options became more appealing, it's quite difficult for me to make up my mind. Help! Regards, Chiyawa

Well, depends on the GPU. If you're talking about RX 6400 or RX 6500 then you'll definitely notice the difference as RX 6400 only use 4 PCIe lanes. Anyway, plugging 30 series or 40 series nVIdia card into PCIe 3.0 slot should not suffer a lot of performance lost. You'll only notice a little worse on stuttering, and if you're a very competitive gamer playing CS:GO and the like, there might be noticeable response time lag. The more prominent problem could be your CPU unable to supply data fast enough for the GPU to process. Otherwise, the lost is very negligible and are virtually unnoticed.

Indeed, but if you don't need RGB, you can try to find Artic PWM 12. I think it was cheaper, but only sell 1 fan set. There are also ID Cooling that sell 5 fans pack for less, but of course, the fan only spins at 1100rpm and having ~25cfm if I'm not mistaken. Anyway, You don't need a bunch of fan (for the case Hyte Y60). Just fill up the bottom fan as intake and top fan as exhaust should be adequate. You're right. But still, Windows 11 excel for Intel 12th and 13th gen processor, but are very unstable for other processors. Uh... I mean if you have follow the news in the past few years, the organic build up is actually inside the CPU water block, not the outside. Gamer's Nexus did show the issue. The recent one is the MSI AIO cooler which have organic growth clogging the micro-fin inside the water block which causes the CPU to overheat. EK water block may suffer the same thing as well 1 or 2 years ago.

Hi, Well, to answer your question Unfortunately, i7-4790k seems to be the top of the line for 80 series motherboard. Also, Gen 8 Intel processor uses DDR4, you won't be able to use your DDR3 RAM back. Game won't use that much memory. 16GB should be suffice if you just use your system for gaming for a long time, unless Microsoft Windows 12 requires 16GB RAM to run. The 32GB requirement is just a sly way for the industry to sell more RAM. I would suggest Core i7 for 3070 or at least 1x600K. 1x400F is a little at the low side, but still works well depending on the games you play Last time AMD is the price to performance ratio champion, but with Intel forced to match their price, it became muddy. Unfortunately for you, your timing is a little out for AMD system. AM4 is consider end of life for upgrade-ability and AM5 is consider new-adopter technology. You can go for AM4 system which proves to be stable but will have limited upgrade path in the future. And also depending on your market, AM4 platform can be cheap or it can be not worth for the performance. You can get 16GB RAM instead. RAM are upgradable so you don't really have to worry when building your new computer. If you think you don't have enough, buy another dual RAM kit. If aesthetic is not your main concern, you can opt for cheaper case. You'll have to check Intel's and manufacturer specification to see if they work, but generally, 13th gen CPU should work with 12th gen (600 series) motherboard, but you may need to flash the BIOS in order for 12th gen motherboard to recognise 13th gen CPU. Windows 11 supports 8th gen Intel CPU if I'm not mistaken and AMD 2000 series CPU or 3000 series APU (Zen+) onwards. Windows 10 support ends 2015 so you still have some good support for security update. For cooling, it depends on your case, your fan, the position of the case and other factors. Generally, mesh front panel gives the best airflow for your component as your fair can suck in a lot of air, but aesthetic wise it won't be clean. However, many case now uses bottom as air intake so you can still enjoy the clean build while your component won't have to suffer heat stroke while working hard. You might want to experiment what works for you in this case. AIO can be very reliable, but there may be some issue, mostly organic growth in the cold plate. Usually, all coolers will come with pre-applied thermal paste, while some do include thermal paste in the box. The thermal paste should be sufficient, but you can put a better thermal paste if you like.

The top port is FireWire. Use to be the 'new' standard to replace USB but failed miserably because it is not secure, as any device can be the host. The bottom two are eSATA, this is to connect SATA device externally, since SATA speed are much faster than USB 2.0. But unfortunately, once USB 3.0 catch up, they no longer relevant.

Look at the picture: Cool! Look at the price: Heart attack!

Like I said, it all depends on your motherboard. I found Gigabyte B650 Aorus Elite support your GSkill RAM and can run your Kingston RAM to 6000MHz. You can refer to this link: https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/B650-AORUS-ELITE-rev-10/support#support-memsup So, unfortunately, your motherboard doesn't seems to have lots of option for memory support. So the only thing you can do is probably change your motherboard. TUF is just PRIME with added RGB blings these days.

Also, unless you know what you are doing, Changing this parameters may result in frying your RAM. Please be careful and proceed with caution when trying this.

It's hard to say. Even if there are 2 identical motherboard place side by side, they can have different performance. This is what I get with 2 Dell systems. 1 works flawlessly with CPU max clock speed of 4.2GHz while the other only subpar with CPU max out at 4.0GHz. (base clock is 3.6GHz.). So sometimes there's the thing call silicon lottery where you may get something that outperforms (even go beyond the maximum specs limit) while sometimes you get something that can't go beyond the specs. I have a Ryzen 5 3600 that can't go beyond 1800MHz infinity fabric, while my friends can go above 1800MHz to a certain degree. Anyway, QVL stands for Qualified Vendor List. It means that the RAM kits had been tested and confirm they can run at the specific performance. The reason why the motherboard manufacturer opt out listing some RAM is probably they have issue getting the RAM to perform what they should due to system stability. With TUF B650 motherboard, my bet is that there are some interference generated when the RAM frequency is very high, and some RAM modules will start to give unclean signal to the system and causes stability issues. While some RAM modules have higher fault tolerances, some may not, thus making the system unstable, creating blue screens of death due to memory error. I don't think the motherboard is faulty. The motherboard, by design, simply couldn't handle certain hardware. Maybe there will improvement over the years and they finally found a way to stabilised the RAM frequency, but it's hard to say for sure. Well, running dual channel actually allows the CPU to perform better, thus the reason why many vendors uses RAM kits with 2 RAMs. This usually eliminates some variations, such as production lot, as sometimes using identical but different lot or production date RAM may causes issues on system stability.

Oh, I thought you couldn't broadcast your gameplay during gaming in PS5. I saw many streamers stream their game using a PC and have their PS5 connect using a capture card.

This could be issue with RAM chips. I would change the RAM chips if possible. One way you may be able to do is to reduce the voltage of the VRAM (to reduce the temperature). I'm not sure how much volt GDDR6 uses, though...

Well, partial. Here's why: As each new GPU release, they will have new technology and new feature. Drivers that release usually update and optimised the new GPU architecture, but the old one will likely only have security patches. Because old GPU doesn't receive more optimisation and feature update, they soon will fall out from their performance even though they are still very capable. Of course, many of the times as new technology comes up and old technology became obsolete, some games may only design for new technology. Old technology will need some workaround to do what new technology can do, but it often adds overhead and requires more processing cycle to do, taxing the GPU core even more, and in the end, old GPU seems sluggish. Similar with iPhone case where the iOS 'deliberately' drain the battery of the previous generation phone, it is actually one of the security feature that causes the battery drain because the old processor doesn't have the dedicated module to handle the instruction efficiently, which result the CPU to work extra hard which drain the battery more.

I see. Then looks like your motherboard may be having issues. Try to get it inspected if you can.

That's one of the reason. I don't suppose you can stream your game session using PS5, right? Indeed. Many developers just care if the game works and don't care for optimisation.

https://www.asus.com/motherboards-components/motherboards/tuf-gaming/tuf-gaming-b650-plus/helpdesk_qvl_memory/ According to this website from Asus, it seems that for Kingston, the maximum RAM speed the motherboard supports is 5600MHz. So far, the motherboard only support 6000MHz RAM for ADATA, Corsair, G Skill, OLOY, and Team Group for 6200MHz and 6400MHz. So, yeah, unfortunately, none of the RAM you listed is in the vendor QVL, so they won't run at their maximum frequency. *Although your motherboard support G Skill 6000MHz RAM, they only support cl36.

Hmm... Well, maybe there are some dust in the RAM slot. Try to blow your RAM slots using compressed air.

Well, RAM usage depends on what you are using. For example, if you stream while gaming, you might want more RAM to run your game. Most game files are likely to be compressed as well so they do need some room for decompression. Also there could be anti-cheat software, DRM keys, proprietary movie codecs and poor optimisation. Sony also probably don't want to let user had a bad experience of their games as well, and many people just don't know much about their computer performance, other than just fancy 16GB RAM or RTX 3050 in the PC specification.

Okay, just make sure you have enough juice for this card. It hogs a staggering 330W at full load. By the way, I'm using Vega 64.

Well, for productivity, see if you can get Vega 56 or 64. They are still capable card for many of workstation load and a capable gaming GPU at 1080p. I'm using one and it still serves me well until today. Although it is old in terms of technology, but if you're like me using Blender 3D render software and produce video in 1080p using H.264, this card is still relevant. So far what I use it for: - Blender (need to install plugin from AMD website - Cyberlink Power Director 15 (H.264 encode) Games I played (UWFHD, 2560x1080, with power limit 50%, VRAM at 1100MHz and GPU clock set to default): - Genshin Impact (all ultra settings, 60fps) - Anno 2205 (medium to high setting, got about 45fps average) - Need for Speed Most Wanted, Critereon Games (60 fps, all high, no MSAA or any AA) - Civilization V (all high, get about 90+ frame) - Assassin's Creed Unity (close to 75 fps all the time, all high settings with any AA off) - Cyberpunk (I don't play much, but it's only 40fps with everything set to low back in early 2021. Not sure about now, though) - Spyro Reignited Trilogy (close to 125 fps at 1920x1080) - Crysis 3, original (all high settings, 80fps average, but a lot of dipping at certain scene) - FarCry 3, when it still works (all high setting, over 100fps)