Sonefiler

Thanks for the mobo info, I went ahead and snagged the B650 from ASRock based on your advice. Do you have any cooler recommendations that work in this case? With the 82mm clearance I'm not sure what the top options are.

Budget (including currency): Maybe like US$800 for the remaining parts of the build, but still figuring out cost-performance stuff Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Highest demand workload will be with 3d modeling and rendering, and I'd also like to get a shit ton of FPS in CS2 Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): I've been out of the PC building game for half a decade now, so forgive me for my ignorance. I currently have a build from early 2019 with a i5-9600K, Noctua NH-L9i, Gigabyte Z390i Aorus Pro Wifi, and GTX 1080 in a Phanteks Evolv Shift, and am finally upgrading for the first time in nearly six years because this computer's age is really starting to show in my workflow. In games like CS2, my FPS is consistently dropping below the 144fps minimum that I need for comfortable gameplay, and playing Helldivers 2 has been much worse. My current plan is to upgrade my CPU first and leave the GPU upgrade for later when I have a little more money, perhaps waiting for a new generation of GPUs to come out or something so I can snag a used card for cheap. (Somme of the software that I use, as well as CS2, are CPU-bound, so just a CPU upgrade alone should go a long way to fixing my issues. But, I do still plan to upgrade the GPU pretty soon afterwards.) I've actually already gotten the first part, the Ryzen 9800X3D, in a (maybe ill-advised) spur-of-the-moment decision. I have nothing else properly planned out though, other than probably getting some 6000MHz CL30 ram, so I'm currently in the beginning stages of trying to figure out what I want to do. My main dilemma is whether I should try to continue building in the Evolv Shift, or abandon ship and fully rebuild from scratch, primarily because of thermal performance. Right now, I'm stuck choosing between three options: try and keep my Noctua L9 for now to see if it works out, upgrade to something better but still compatible with my case, or jump ship entirely and get a new case that can support a better cooler. I love the aesthetics of the Evolv Shift, and don't really mind the difficulty of building in it, but I've already been having issues with thermal performance with this Intel CPU, so I initially assumed this would be much worse with this new CPU. However, this Bitwit video suggests that the cooler might actually be sufficient and won't even throttle the 9800X3D, which is confusing me a lot as this seems to violate the laws of thermodynamics when compared to my temperatures with the lower TDP i5. Because of the clearances on this case (82mm?), I can't actually fit any tower coolers in this build. My research tells me that the best that I can fit is the Noctua NH-L12SX77, or I can also spring for some kind of thick radiator 120mm AIO like the Arctic Liquid Freezer II. (If there are other strong contenders, I'd love to hear of those as well.) Are these a significant enough upgrade to be worth considering? In addition, I'd like some advice on a mini-ITX AM5 motherboard for this CPU. More specifically, is the distinction between the A620 and B650 boards important for me? I don't really plan to do any overclocking on this thing for now (but maybe in the future once this thing starts to slow down), so I'm wondering if the price difference here is worth it. Any advice is appreciated, thank you!

To be clear, this only really happens on maps like Nuke or Vertigo, laggier maps, when I'm doing stuff like watching twitch streams at the same time on my second monitor, and especially when I'm next to a smoke. But, if this is still unusual, do you have any advice on what I should be looking at to fix this? I don't have an OC motherboard, unfortunately, and I have an ITX build so I don't know if I'm comfortable with OCing, especially since I don't really know what I'm doing.

I'm looking to upgrade my CPU to get better FPS in CSGO. I'm currently on a i5-9600K, 64GB RAM, and a GTX 1080, so I'm looking to upgrade my CPU most likely. I want minimum 150FPS consistently with low settings 1080p, even on the laggier maps; sometimes my FPS dips low enough that it's below the refresh rate of my monitor (especially when I also have a lot of other stuff open like a twitch stream or music or whatever), which I want to avoid at all costs. Would getting an i7-9700K be an effective way to reach this goal, or is it too little of an upgrade from my current setup? I'd like to spend as little money as possible on this. I use this PC for literally nothing else, so don't worry about any other use cases.

For those on the internet looking for a solution to this problem: I bought this USB to SATA adapter from Amazon. The power plug for my drive was still in perfect condition, so it stabilized the plug in a way that I was able to transfer my files off safely. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S9CKV7X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I didn't ignore "any suggestions" given to me, I just said I'm uncomfortable with this method.

I don't own a soldering iron and have never used one before. Not sure how this destructive method would be the safer option

I was initially thinking I would just try and hold the connector in place while the data all transfers off, since I thought this would be the easiest way. If, though, I lost full contact at some point during the transfer process, would there be any risk of damage to my original drive, or the data on it?

I'm really not very confident in my ability to solder. Is this the only solution?

Hi all, I have a SSD that I know works perfectly, except that I broke the SATA data plug on it. Specifically, I accidentally broke the plastic around the pins on the port, and they're stuck inside my cable now. I know that data recovery services are usually ridiculously expensive, so I'm looking for a solution for this that I can do at home, if possible. I've already bought a new drive off Amazon, I just need to find a way to transfer all this data over safely. I tried just using the cable that the plastic broke off inside of and slotting the pins into there, but the pins bent a bit when the plastic broke off in the first place so the pins aren't slotting in nicely, and I didn't want to try using force since that seemed like a bad idea. Has anybody ever had this issue? If so, how did you resolve it? Or have you heard of a solution to this issue before? Thank you! Edit: If it matters, the drive is an A-Data Premiere Pro SP900 256GB, and from what I understand it is out of warranty (I've had it for around 6 years).

I have another question. Since I'm switching my boot drive from my 2.5" 256GB SSD to a M.2 512GB SSD, can I just copy everything over somehow? If so, what's the best way to do that?

Oh, I see. Is there a way that I can transfer my windows license to my new PC?

What do you mean by "reactivate"?

Hey guys. This is kind of a broad spectrum question, so sorry if this isn't the perfect place to put this post. So recently I built a second computer (long story), and since I now have two computers, I want to combine them into one great build. In my old build, I have two 2.5" SSDs (one with Windows boot) and a 4TB HDD. In my new build, I have a M.2 PCIe SSD, which is also the boot device. I want to move all my drives to the new PC, but I don't want to wipe their data. I'd rather keep what I have and just move it over in the new computer. However, I don't know how to do this. Is it safe to just plug in my drives into the new computer? What do I do about the old windows boot on my 2.5" SSD? Thanks for the help!

I got it working! Just wanted to let people know how I got this working, in case anybody in the future wanted to do this: To hook up the relay switch, I wired two Molex connector pins, the +12V and a Ground pin (seems like it depends on the power supply you're using as to which wire corresponds to which), to the relay switch. I wired the +12V (Middle pin) from the fan header as the actual switching signal. Then I used motherboard fan curve adjustments to make the fan stay at 0RPM until 45 degrees, then have it go to full throttle!