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Janick.Spielmann

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About Janick.Spielmann

  • Birthday Jul 30, 1996

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Switzerland
  • Interests
    PC Hardware
  • Occupation
    Student it

System

  • CPU
    FX-6300 OC to 4.3 GHz so I can make my scrambled eggs somewhere
  • Motherboard
    A peace of plastic
  • RAM
    more then google chrome needs ;-)
  • GPU
    R9 280X with about 2 fan blades left, and half a finger
  • Case
    A black box, nothing to see here
  • Storage
    60GB an a CD drive
  • PSU
    A potato with 2 nails and a wire
  • Display(s)
    (s) you wish 720p "gamin' " for me
  • Cooling
    I don't have fans
  • Keyboard
    §1234567890'qwertzuiopüäsdfghjklöä$<yxcvbnm,.-
  • Mouse
    "click", "roll", "click"
  • Sound
    Not as loud as my stereo
  • Operating System
    Windows TPB edition
  • PCPartPicker URL

Recent Profile Visitors

496 profile views
  1. There is nothing really running in the background. Just chrome is eating like 4 GB RAM atm. Windows is pretty new. Only set it up like 6 months ago. I usually set up everything new whenever I get a new MB or a new boot drive. I think it's probably the RAM. The CPU cooler is trash for replacing the RAM, that's why I want to be sure that it's worth the effort.
  2. Just noticed it's an MSI GPU There is some airflow but, I can't really change a lot. There is no more room for fans. The front one is useless anyway as the solid plastic cover is like 5 mm away when you close the front panel. I could change the side fan to pull... I'll try this next, as soon that I get the RAM.
  3. Well programes are crashing left and right. It has also rebooted the PC once or twice. The Fans are switched to 100% @ 50 °C in BIOS. I think it's not CPU or GPU thermals but rather the case thermals effecting the RAM and the VRM. Testing while playing APEX 1440p@144Hz frame drops within 1 round - The case temp is around 55° inside my 20 °C room. The GPU peaks @ 65 °C and the CPU 70 °C
  4. Budget (including currency): CHF 300.00 Country: Switzerland Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Gaming mostly I have a Micro ITX build using a Corsair 250D, and it constantly crashes. I think it's thermals, but I could be wrong. RAM usage is also constantly at around 7.6 GB The rest of the Hardware is a bit dated, but I am not expecting a Ferrari. This is a 2. Build that I just want to play some games. Like APEX, CSGO, Witcher 3, BFV. It's perfectly fine if I have to play on mid range settings. My build now is: MB: ASUS Z97I-PLUS CPU: Xeon E3-1240 v3 GPU: ASUS GTX-980 RAM: 2x Kingston 4 GB sticks (1600 MhZ) SSD: Some 240 GB Sata Drive HD: 1 TB WD drive Case: Corsair 250D CPU Cooler: be quiet! Shadow Rock LP I can spend a max 300 CHF (Prices of products are almost the same as US$) and I am totally willing to buy used. My demands: - Micro ITX (The smaller, the better) - Good cooling What I think makes sense to upgrade: Case CPU Cooler RAM!!! More SSD space (like 1TB for games) I would use: - Silverstone SST-SG13WB Sugo USB3.0 ($60) - Corsair H60 ($80) - HyperX Fury 2x8GB ($50) - WD Blue 1TB ($100) Is there a better upgrade path for 300 CHF? Thanks for all your opinions Janick
  5. The Gigabyte X470 Gaming 7 is actually called X470 Aurus Gaming 7 WiFi, dumbest name ever considering the Gaming 7 is a Intel socket board (Z370), but then it's Gigabyte adding "gaming" in almost every MBs just because it sells better that way. https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/X470-AORUS-GAMING-7-WIFI-rev-10#kf
  6. I usually use old systems for OC builds. I clock it as fast as it can go. Gaming on it at 90° C untill it crashes, If shit hits the fan there isn't a big deal and 100 of dollars lost. New system only get a solid "safe" overclock not a dumb over the top one. My FX 6300 system runs on 4.35 or even 4.4 GHz at the moment, I give it another month and then the CPU is toast. My new system is almost complete so that is perfect timing. ? You could also turn your system into a console killer. The GT 730 can run light games that are casual to play with controllers on a sofa. Plex or other tv systems are also a good plan, thought you can get a google chromecast for like 20$ that is, in my opinion more practical then a desktop next to your tv. I can not recommend to run this system as a server as It has a GPU you don't need. Or sell it
  7. Well yeah if you have a 70$ budget you go for the better one but if the 550w is 60$ and the 650W is 70$ of the same PSU type you might just spend the extra 10$ if you are not on a "every $ counts as 2 budget", so that is what I meant by spending the extra 10$
  8. I would not keep that Elite Power Plus too long, it is not a particularly good PSU. At the moment it is fine until you get your new PSU (I mean if you don't have a better option ? ) I can't finde a really bad PSU on that website, if you filter for 40000 -50000 and select the recommended brands. They are all A or even S Can someone please double check this.
  9. Sure ? NP I just wanted to help. No hard feelings.
  10. It depends on the MB or better on the BIOS settings. Most BIOS don't care, they just boot whatever was first plugged in, some thought choose the first SATA port on there list. describes it the best. Sure the easiest way but just to safe one Laptop HD I would not go out and buy anything Yeah try and error or open the BIOS and change the Boot settings.
  11. Ups my bad Totally agree again.
  12. Totally agree with you on that one outervision is overestimating, but to be honest I don't know a single build in that price range that the PSU is not an overkill. Most people get a 650 or even a 750W PSU for a system that needs 550W max. So I always recommend outervision to people to be on the safe side. Is there something wrong with that or is there a better way to do this the fast way? Oc you can count all the different components but at the end you might safe about 10$ on a PSU that lasts you a "lifetime".
  13. So I am not calling it "A " but you stared with calling me a BSter in your first post! I work for a power company and I know a hell lot more about transformers and rectifier then the ones in a PC PSU so that got me a little bit triggered ? That was dumb ? What I sad is what I believe to be true. 1. You check what you need (In this case how much power) 2. You look up if there are any recognisable brands you may have worked in the past or are known for there good quality. 3. You check the specs. In this case, like you pointed out previously especially 80+ rating (where I would never go for less then Gold) 4. You look at Lists like the LTT Tier list (did not know that one yet, but there are others out there that are more or less the same) 5. You are now free to choose whatever you like) That is how I select my PSU. How do you do it? PS. I already wrote that I meant to write 80+ Gold. I AM SORRY FOR THAT TYPO !!!.
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