SkyHound0202

ASRock disagrees. https://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/B150M Combo-G/

RGB header and PWM fan header are separate, so this can happen. If your BIOS report a fan connector as N/A then the fan is either disconnected or has failed. Try unplug and plug in again or try a different connector on board to pinpoint the problem.

It's an uncommon frequency. 2800 MHz is not a JEDEC standard value.

Preferably a many-core device with massive RAM (depend on size and complexity of your map). ArcGIS recommends workstation GPU but that's not necessary. A Dell G series will serve you nicely. You can even upgrade its RAM, if situation requires it. If you want a certified driver for better compatibility and performance, get a Dell Precision with Quadro.

Double click on the header area to edit.

A similarly configured G.Skill kit is on the QVL. It should work.

A poorly-implemented new technology is no better than an well-implemented old one.

If you want to game with that iGPU now, then go with the slower 2x4 kit, but you will (some) give up future upgradability. If you don't game (work and typical home usage, etc.) or don't mind some compromise now, but plan on getting the best performance later, get the faster 1x8 stick and save up for another one later on. Ryzen APU does work with single channel ram, but at a slight performance disadvantage. Ram overclocking result differs from module to module, motherboard to motherboard. It also requires some knowledge of timing and latency when overclocked beyond XMP. You mileage may vary.

APU use portion of system RAM as vRAM for the integrated GPU and Zen architecture benefits greatly from dual-channel fast memory due to their CCX design. Ideally you should get the fastest dual channel RAM kit. DDR4 3000 in single channel: 23.5 GB/s, Infinity Fabric Frequency: 1466.67 MHz (reduced bandwidth) DDR4 2400 in dual channel: 38.4 GB/s, Infinity Fabric Frequency: 1200 MHz (full bandwidth) Latency varies depends on model.

OK, better not waste that. You can try this kit. https://www.amazon.com/NGFF-SATA-Converter-Adapter-Cable/dp/B07G2YXLFP

Why not just use a M.2 SATA drive? Or get a PCIe extender?

The EVGA GPU Hybrid Cooler Kit for last generation Pascal cards has been discontinued. Alternatively, you can try NZXT G12 with a compatible CPU water-cooling kit. Or go with EK water-cooling.

Embedded Controller (EC) manages power, battery, IO, display, and in your case, fan. EC firmware is store on a chip that programs the functionality of EC. A bad EC and/or EC firmware might cause the system to behave abnormally like losing fan control. I would suggest you to go to the support page of your laptop and check for EC and/or BIOS update. Follow the instruction to update EC firmware and BIOS. Flashing firmware may brick your device, so proceed with caution.

How you tried Error Checking the drive for corruption first? Or was there a bad sector/track on the drive?

Yes.

Try "Disk Cleanup" (cleanmgr.exe) utility first, see if you can reclaim enough space. If not, get a USB-OTG cable and a USB flash drive. Create a Windows 10 installation media with that USB flash drive. Plug in the drive and run the installation. Select "Keep personal files and apps" option to only update your system.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:PlayStation_4-only_games

As far as I can tell, what you've got is incomplete. You have not purchase a wireless card. The adapter you received is not intended for normal M.2 wireless cards. Further more, the seller did not provide you the USB cable for Bluetooth to work. Making matter worse, Apple proprietary cards are expensive. Make your choice.

You will need a proprietary AirPort Wireless Card for this adapter. The Wireless card is sold separately. Assuming you got the correct card (using BCM943602CS as an example.) The three signal wires with IPX connector will connect to the three IPX sockets on the Card, marked by red circles.

Something tells me that you want to build a Hackintosh, don't you? Because that adapter is ONLY intended for the Apple proprietary connector, rather than NGFF (M.2) or CNVi. Anyway, first your WiFi card should slide into proprietary connector marked "CN1" at an angle and secured by screw. Consult your card type to select the correct screw hole. The golden connectors on the back bracket are the SMA connectors and they connect to the antennas. Check the polarity (whether it has a pin or a hole) before installing the antenna, otherwise you risk damaging the components. The three signal wires has the IPX (Hirose U.FL) connector. The should connect to IPX socket the WiFi card. In addition, you will need a USB dongle to connect socket "CN2" to a motherboard USB header for the Bluetooth to be functional.

Can you modify the poll? There's a lot of errors in that: 1. ITX=Mini ITX 2. You missed out standard ATX 3. There's plenty of other form factors. Maybe add "Other"?

It's not common for your average consumer, only a handful high-end enthusiastic ones like ASUS ROG MAXIMUS X APEX exist, but this form factor is very useful in server/business products which requires more cores, RAM and IO potentials.

Steam Link (If you can still find one). Or install Steam on a cheap mini PC like Intel NUC or Zotac ZBox (or some off-brand Intel mini PC) for Steam in home streaming.

Wireless is not on par with wired connection in many cases. If you do wish to use one, a PCIe based (either M.2 or AIC) wireless card like Intel 8265AC, 9260AC or ASUS PCE-AC56, PCE-AC68 might be a good choice. If you don't have port available, USB based ones like ASUS USB-AC68 or Netgear A6100/A7000 are just fine. But do keep in mind that wireless is not only affected by your choice of network adapter card, but also your router (preferably a dual band AC one), distance & space between router (limited range and penetration) and your upstream ISP.