RAS_3885

Maybe it's the picture, but it doesn't look like it has a 3.5 mm connection at both ends. Looks like the end on the right is larger, maybe a 1/4" connector?

Can you get into the BIOS? Try a CMOS reset? What are the full hardware specs?

Sounds like it's failing to POST. Are there any other error messages, debug lights on the motherboard, etc.?

Fair enough. Good luck!

36 dB is essentially background noise of a quiet room. Are you using the stock CPU cooler? The fans on those are typically louder than aftermarket options. The fan will be spinning, even at idle, and will be making noise. As for the HDD, they make different spinning/whining/whirling noise as they spin up and down and read/write data. It's normal.

Can you split the charger brick plastic housing? Sometimes there's extra strain relief wire inside you might be able to use. Regardless, if you decide to fix I'd recommend soldering over some sort of twist connector. Ultimately, it might just be best to replace the charger.

That's a normal percentage. Give it more and it will use more. This is more-or-less idle with only a few apps running. ~30 percent usage. I've never had a game use 16 GB of RAM, so I suspect your issue is something else.

Not sure about the ISO extraction issue, but if you're just trying to create an installation USB why not use the medial creation tool? Then you don't need to mess around with any ISO stuff as the tool prepares the USB completely for you. That's the route I've always gone.

Have you tried a different SATA port? Does your motherboard disable certain SATA ports when the M.2 slot is populated? I would expect the drive wouldn't show in the BIOS either if this was the case, but worth a look.

The HD6xx range is iconic for a reason. Overall quite balanced and I find the sound clarity to be excellent. The HD6XX (an actual model, based on the HD650) is reported to be a little more bass-heavy than the HD600. I think it's perfect as the bass is still clearly there, but not overwhelming. The Audio Technica ATH-M50x is another one in that category that I've heard stacks up really well for the price. Closed-back.

I have the Sennheiser HD6xxs (which are identical to the HD650 audio-wise) and absolutely love them. I believe the HD600s are pretty similar as well. They are open-back though, so anything you listen to will be audible to anyone sitting near you. You mention you don't want people to hear, but then say it's optional, so not sure how critical this really is. Just be aware even lower volumes folks can hear what you're listening to, but that's the nature of all open back headphones and not just the HD6xx. But, if you're okay with that, the HD600s are fantastic.

Sorry, I misread and thought the apps in question were on the original 120 GB boot drive. I believe you will have to reinstall them on the new boot drive.

fixitfixitfixit https://discord.com/invite/gpu

I got one by joining a stock alert Discord server.

Is it a clean install of Windows on the new drive? You could always clone the old drive to the new drive entirely. Otherwise, uninstall and reinstall will be best to avoid any issues with file path and registry references.

What temperatures are you seeing? Were you having any issues before the PSU failure?

If you already have the fan just install it and see. It will be fine since your components aren't particularly power hungry.

Are you experiencing any performance issues? It may just be a bug with how it's registering in GPU-Z. If the card is performing as expected I would not worry about it.

Start simple. Have you tried re-installing your graphics drivers? Any other games have this issue?

Sounds like a PSU problem, but not necessarily a capacity issue. 750 W should be plenty. Sounds more like a fault with the PSU. I'll be interested to hear if the issue goes away when you try another PSU.

I don't think either change is worth it unless you specifically need something B550 offers that B450 does not.

@Ironide More info OP

Here's some great reading if you're still worried. https://www.rtings.com/tv/learn/real-life-oled-burn-in-test I sit 11 feet from my TV.

Lol, "small" at 65" I will vote for OLED every time. Even the best fully array LED backlight doesn't come close in my opinion to OLED for contrast and "pop", especially HDR content. Burn-in is also not as much of an issue as people like to make it out to be. Possible, yes, but unless you are watching the same news channel all day every day it's not going to matter. If you watch any sort of varied content it will not be a perceptible issue. Since I used to cast a LOT of Youtube videos from my phone to my Chromecast I have a very faint burn-in of the Youtube logo in the bottom left from the "home" casting screen once a video was done playing. After 4 years the 5-10 minutes it would sit on that screen before auto powering off was enough for it to show up, but I can ONLY ever see it on solid red colors that overlap the lower left corner. That means for all intents and purposes it does not show up in regular content. So, as long as you are semi-aware of static images you will never have an issue. That slight inconvenience is well worth the image quality IMO. I have a 65" LG OLED for reference.

I meant after you added the new RAM did you re-set the DOCP profile to run at the higher speed? If so, 4000 MHz may just be too much for four sticks on your motherboard. That's a pretty decent RAM overclock.