see you next friday

I managed to get mine running again by following these instructions from this post. I have yet to get the transistor so I currently have to switch off the PSU power to stop the PS4 fan. The system turns on and works well enough. I will make it look a bit tidier and re-route some of the cables. Perhaps I will use the unused 5V wires for some RGB or something in the future.

I already have an ATX power supply, soldering equipment, connectors and wires. I have everything required to firmly attach the power supply on the PS4 Pro. The only thing I do not have is information on which wire to solder where. I am not going to pay 62€ for PS4 Pro PSU. That is an insanely high price. I can get another whole PS4 Pro for ~80€.

The cheapest unit I can find on ebay is 62€ which is pretty much the same as a standard PS4 and therefore too much for a power supply. I know it is dead since I broke it myself by accident and it no longer works.

Do you have a link?

Country: Finland Other details: The original power supply model is ADP-300CR I wish to do some soldering to make an adapter for my PS4 Pro. The original power supply is broken and needs to be replaced. I have cables such as these lying around but I am uncertain of the pin-outs on the PS4 Pro. I do not have a multimeter. I found this video on the subject earlier but their console seems slightly different from mine. Is it still viable to just follow the instructions on the video. Has anyone replaced an ADP-300CR before? I also found this blog post on the subject but I'm afraid I found it a bit confusing. Please help me get my PS4 Pro working again.

I wish to mod my Gigabyte H110 D3A Rev. 1.0 without modding the CPU. I instead wish to short the socket occupied pin but I am unable to find it on the ITE IT8628E SuperIO. Am I looking in the completely wrong place? Has anyone had any luck with this?

It seems my CH341A device/its software cannot detect/recognize the Pm25LD020 chip on the card correctly. I don't understand a lot about this subject and I have just been following instructions I've found online. Do you think the issue is in the software or the device or is it even supposed to be able to read the chip?

I will start trying different Gigabyte, Sparkle and Galaxy VBIOS files now. Here is a picture of the back as well.

The chip says GF116-200-KA-A1 (I think) so I thought it was a GTS 450 but none of the BIOS files I've tried seem to work at all. I am using a CH341A device which I have previously successfully used to fix a bricked R9 280. Do you have any idea what BIOS I should use instead?

Link for the PSU?

A cable converter will not work. The 5V 3-pin ARGB is digital and the 12V 4-pin RGB is analog. You would need a dedicated device to do the conversion for you. I think Pirate Dog Tech may have something but I don't have first hand experience with a device like that.

Thanks for the reply. I'll look for the QQZ4 and if I can't find one I'll settle for a 9700K

I can get a used 9700K for ~280€ where I live or an engineering sample 9900K (QQBY) for ~300€. Which is the better option for gaming at 1440p? I don't care about warranty. Do not consider it a factor in your recommendation, please. I also don't want to hear about how much better value Ryzen are.