RobinD

AMD does tend to benifit from high clocks but if i recall that starts to fade above 5600, do you know the mother board CPU combo your using. Personally i would check for reports of issues with combinations of high hz ram and your Motherboard. It maybe a issue lost to time (or may still be an issue) but it used to be a thing that some high hz ram just wouldnt play nice with some MBs. Your MB will have certifed ram list. Unlikely to have everything and i wouldnt keep to it but its worth the 5 min google search to see if others have same build and any issues. IMO I'd then go with 6000 if other built no issues. i may lean to 5600 if i find reports of issues with 6000. Others may say this is a waste of time , guess it depends how quick your google fu is.

The ad literally has pictures with dimensions O.o It's a tiny case. Height is 22.3cm, depth 18.4cm, width 10.4cm this is yout outside size so adjust down accordingly from there. what size GPU do you want? Mini PCs can be hard to figure out sizing on you will need to lookup each parts size to double check. All check on PC part picker but its not perfect on mini pcs i think. Pick parts. Build your PC. Compare and share. - PCPartPicker

Maybe worth trying an external windows 10/11 installation USB. Create installation media for Windows - Microsoft Support

Having not used the wireless ones myself hard to be sure. Quick google i find the same as you. The G502 forums seem to think there is very little in it. G502 X Lightspeed vs. G502 Lightspeed (20 days in) : r/G502MasterRace (reddit.com) Specs say the x model is alittle liter but G604 is heavier then both so for you,thats probally not an issue. This video not very helpful but its a literally side by side https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=video&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwib9u7dq5SDAxVgT0EAHRWLDNIQtwJ6BAgWEAI&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DVv8ZzpYKMG8&usg=AOvVaw0tkscFzFx0mGeWVLqIyZPh&opi=89978449

TLDR: SSD storage is now cheap (ish), just buy SSD and use a free cloud backup . Depends what you use case is. Will 1TB be enough is the data long term or will you increase it in time? Is the data critical/ of high value to you and you want it quick to hand? I built a budge machine recently with a 256GB SSD (free) and a 2nd hand 1 TB drive from ebay for £20. The user had no unique data, it was to play on steam on a mid/budget PC. All data was also held in steam or other cloud services. This is a good use case for 2nd hand HDD , data you don't care about. New HDD can be used if your worried your data need will increase quickly talking multiple TB and that awhole other chat. SSHD I don't use these unless free they may as well be HDD's in my mind due to their performance SDD Sata are a budget SSD option but you get a hugh jump from HDD , they have a place on cheapers PCs SSD M.2 are cheap eno to meet most use cases, the improvement from SSD sata to M.2 is not small but not as much as like HDD to SSD sata but they are an improvement over SSD Sata none the less.

First boot after hardware change can take awhile especially on asrock motherboards. Also i recall needing to really get the ram in (the click) for them to sit right in an asrock board. If you reseated them that may have been the fix? Either way atleast its working now, sometimes its more luck then smart fixes:

If it's an older TV with audio jack in then maybe worth trying a 3.5 jack to 3.5 jack. alongside the HDMI but putting PC to output audio via jack. If UK based they used to sell them in poundland for £1 , if EU then Dealz maybe the same. Might not help but would be intresting to see if it treat it as a rawer audio input and just plays it

If your not attached to your extra function keys then the Logitech 502 series is solid, I'm using one atm. I personally use the lightweight wired one but the whole range is pretty well received I'm guessing your in Germany (sorry if your in another Germanic/Dutch based country). https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Logitech-wireless-connection-POWERPLAY-compatible/dp/B07QNYCLBJ/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3EY93VBJV2WJX&keywords=logitech+502+x+wireless&qid=1702740230&sprefix=logitech+502+x+wireless%2Caps%2C57&sr=8-4 Logitech G502 LIGHT SPEED wireless gaming mouse, HERO 16000 dpi sensor, wireless connection, USB port, RGB lighting, weight tuning, POWERPLAY compatible, PC / Mac, Black - German Packaging: Amazon.de: Computer & Accessories Maybe able to find cheaper but its a decent starting point.

If i'm understanding correctly your problem is as follows: The HDMI is used on both the nitendo and the PC? To the same port on the TV? if yes then i would think the issue may be with the TV not the PC as the PC is clearly sending audio to the TV hence its speakers working. The WII and PC are unlikely to know about the TV attached speakers or not they just send audio. Check what audio your sending surround sounds vs stero maybe? might be that your speakers are set to surround sound only on the TV itself. I'd think a deep dive into the TV speaker setting seeing if there any hint to what/how the speakers are confgiured atm/ Sorry if this is just a ramble and not very helpful but i hope it gives u a few ideas . You could try a tv forum. Used to work for an audio tech company a decade ago and some of the tv sounds guys really knew their stuff.

Schools have shelves full of faulty Chromebooks (graveyards). If the fault is a noise (or lack of) when it's returned it is unlikely your sys admin will notice or care. When they get a return they will login, reset to factory. They may even have an deployment tool so they literally plug it in and walk away. They don't spend hours on it clicking and keyboarding . They might do a keyboard test but even that is probably automated. Risks involved in fix yourself are likely not worthwhile when its not your kit.

Hello, It sounds like your data is going to hold a monetary value to your business. I'd suggest you setup backup of some kind. How much data are you thinking? How serious are you? If 1 TB , I suggest you buy 1 internal HDD and one external. If you have a 2nd computer maybe your house mate then ask if they would mind plugging the HDD in their computer and setup a backup job (for example Veeam free) to run once a week. In UK you can pick up the drives for under £50 and it means you won't lose the recording. Which may themselves have taken hours to make. Alternatively you could use an online storage option. Don't leave backups as an after thought

Any suggest on kit (Models and brands) also appreciated. I do setups like this in work but we obviously have our brand bias. Thinking about it I can't use kit free from work as it will be EOL and will not meet my cyber security needs for my traffic ... So general advise from community be good on that front too.

TLDR: I have two building within 100 meters . One has a 72mbs line and one can only get 16mbs . I want to uterlise the 72mbs line in the second property. I'm thinking a wireless bridge. ........ So i pay for my best mates internet. Have done for years. I get Discounts and I crash there sometimes. He gets 72mbs and will be upgrading to 300mb or 1gbs later in the year when the service is commissioned. His traffic is mostly at night and mine in the day. Next week I'm moving into a house approx 100meters up the road. Direct line of sight. But it only offer 16mbs and is not part of the FTTP roll out happening this year. (BTOR work in mysterious ways). So my choice are: 1) use a 4G router likely get 12-20mbs in my area. (Wiltshire,UK) 2) get a wireless outdoor ap and point it up the street 3) get a wireless bridge ............. I work in IT. So managing the solution should be ok. I can get some kit for free as throw aways from projects but might need to buy it myself. For my job I need reliable internet 24/7. So people of LTT. Any warning or concerns or tales of woe. Or any big Brian people got better ideas? All thoughts greatly appreciated.

i guess something else to try... how is it on single stick of ram?

I claim little knowledge but downclocking on the 570 ... i wonder if its profile based issue? maybe worth checking what profile setting are on the bios. What does it show as in Bios? if you bought both the ram and mother board direct from seller then i guess you could raise a RMA with both and see if either suggest any good tests prior to sending it to them.

Your diagnostics does not rule out this being "normal". As the A1 + B1 test was not inline with the ram population guide. I would say to round off your diagnostics borrow 2 sticks of ram from someone (not to high Mhz, if it is check the QVL for ram on this motherboard). Test their "known good" sticks in the same configs. If card you know work else where has same results then it suggests your ram is fine, If you can get 4 stick same speed (mhz +GB ) then populate all four. If this works confirms your motherboard is acting as intended. I know getting extra equipment maybe hard. TBH i suggest you run in a A2 , B2 config for awhile so if you have issues.

Honestly at this budget Id suggest you reach out to local offices. Ideally medium sizes 10-100 employee... big eno not to run computers till they die but small eno that Wee waste is managed by a Man/Woman in IT. Wee waste = electrical waste...each country has their own term for this sorry. but in most courties buissness need to pay for waste disposal so to save a headache and be a nice person some IT department will give stuff away or "leave it next to the bin" Call a few business and explain your seeking to give life back into an old PC if they are throwing any away. You may get something use-able (for under $50 or free) and then your mate can save up to closer the 500-700 mark.

You issue occurs on both bios and OS. this rules out harddrive and and OS firmware (or you have more then one issue). Based on where you are now... is the below correct: You have a harddrive that doesnt see OS. but is shown in Bios. You cant repair but have not tried to rebuild it. You go into Bios but the GUI goes black. ........ I would first see if the graphic output issue effects when in OS to see if it could be a GPU issue, I also assume you have data you desperately want and hence not tried a fresh install. 1. Get a win 10 install media , you can down load it from microsoft. https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/software-download/windows10 2. Boot to this USB. do not format your drive. on the 2nd screen you should be offered to boot to repair. Boot to repair. go command line, run notepad.exe then any data you want to keep right click and send to USB drive. Note large files will take awhile and this is only suitable for small amount of data. But can be a quick and low footprint way to backup word docs and pics before more radical actions. Cant stress eno the importance of backing up irreplaceable data before you go on. 3. Now review did your screen go blank during this process? If yes, check cables, get new ones, reseat the GPU. 4.Try reseating the cooler , checking mounting pressure. check ram, try with only one stick. inspect cpu for bent pins... Good luck

Is it the TS659-pro you need?. is so see link below? https://www.qnap.com/en-uk/download?model=ts-659 pro%2B&category=firmware note there is a 659 pro, 659 pro ii and a 659 pro + each likely to have different drivers. i guessed the URLs last time based on their naming conventions but ive tried a few different guesses and all now say not found or forbidden. I suspect they tidied their backend naming to stop this kinda thing. There is hope however... this active forum guy says their helpdesk might help... log them a ticket n see? https://forum.qnap.com/viewtopic.php?t=130286

Right you are the OP clearly does not have 10GB NIC card or they wouldnt be looking at the card suggested. On a budget of £30 i dont see Fibre working from Ebay, most cards im seeing are going at £30 each + and fibre connectors cost abit. IMO 2nd hand market in UK is not as vibrant as some countries as business sellers must certify their goods for a year even if selling on ebay ect. Many businesses therefore sell to distro who sell the kit abroad. ive removed my comment as it would not come in budget but i have no other suggestions sorry

Removed due to inaccuracy

So side comment, FYI that you are most likely fully aware of. The 2060 does not run NVlink or SLI therefore the benifit of two GPUs is only found in some work loads / scenarios So general sensus seems to be an additional 2060 is between 175wats and 200watts but Nvidea say 160w https://www.nvidia.com/en-gb/geforce/graphics-cards/rtx-2060/ you can use link below to see how much you other components require. https://pcpartpicker.com/ it will give you a good idea then just add 160/200 to the total for the 2nd GPU. Ive found a search for many running SLI 2070 which use a small amount additional.. Many of them use 850watts, a few 750. https://pcpartpicker.com/builds/#G=2&g=436,446,425,447,427

i see you now have managed to get on the OS... Therefore this is not relevant ... best of luck seem your on the right track

I would suggest booting into Bios. Dos the screen do any flashing or weid stuff on Bios... If yes , maybe hardware (bad times) If you plug in a windows recovery USB and boot to advance > CMD> run notepad.exe. Go open and See if your files are visible. They are likely in a drive not named what you expect as this is Bios naming of drives, so maybe named X or 0. In file explorer you can now copy your highly critical documents from their location to the usb drive your using for windows recovery , dont take everything, just irreplaceable photos or assignments/work due shorty. Now try a windows repair it should roll back if it does work. If it fails try a full reinstall - you can extract all files via the method above if you need but im sure there a better way. I have a harddrive cradle for example. The issue with the above method is it will take awhile and if the harddrive is failing it might die anytime. Always extract your data before a reinstall. If after reinstall you still have issues try an alternative harddrive. , Doesnt need to be anything decent just to test if the rest of your kit is ok. You can even boot off a ISO on a USB to test it for a few days for the same purpose if you struggle to find an old harddrive. Best of luck

Which country are you based in? Supplier and options will vary geographically If you just need a win10 rig, i suggest you talk to local offices. In my local town any given month a office or 2 get rid of a few machines. They are no good for anything except web browsing and basic word processing but if your polite to IT managers they are free.