KeltonDSMer

Oh shoot of course I should have seen if they updated the site, thanks. That's a huge relief!

Does anyone know the HDMI spec of the new cards? I don't remember seeing that in the presentation, and with 4K 120 Hz TVs going way down in price this seems pretty important.

Hey not sure sure if this has happened to anyone, but after a W10 update a few months ago no controllers work at all on PC. I have a genuine 360 controller/receiver that I normally used, but the receiver no longer lights up and so I figured it died. I tried a PS3 controller via USB cable with the appropriate driver (ScpToolkit) with no luck. I ordered a $15 Chinese 2.4GHz PS3 looking controller that also is not recognized. There are quite a few articles and YT vids showing this has been a problem for others after the 2004 W10 update with solutions (change device ID # in driver and install after disabling driver signature protection since 360 driver is technically modified), but in each of those walkthroughs the device is showing up in Device manager and nothing is for me. All 3 controllers I have do not show in device manager after refreshing list and showing hidden devices. I have restarted, checked all the possible sub categories and can't find the unrecognized devices anywhere! Image is device manager with genuine 360 adapter plugged in, but does not change with 3rd party or PS3 controller even after restarts/show hidden devices/refresh list and all that. Oh, I have also tried USB ports on IO shield and front panel, nothing is recognized regardless. Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

I was thinking about going to DreamHack Denver next weekend, but I have never been to a LAN and am not quite sure what the different ticket packages are. I just want to sit and play games for a few days, is it the $70 BYOC 3-day pass that I am looking for? I have to work Friday morning and won't be able to make it to Denver until ~Noon. The schedule shows the BYOC "loadin" at 9AM, is this going to be a problem if I can't make it until a few hours later? Can I still bring in my PC? Does anyone have any tips to have more fun? All I can think is to bring food and drinks in the car to keep costs down and to remember to bring a Ethernet cable. Is there anything else you guys would suggest/recommend to someone going to their first LAN? Anyone else thinking of going? Let me know if you want to carpool and/or meet up sometime at the event!

Yeah that's why I said: In my case, it doesn't open enough in the cold, so I let more air past manually instead of buying an $100 part that will stop working correctly a year or two later. It is such a common problem that blockoff plates can still be found for the stupid thing 25 years later. The valve works like a thermostat with a spring/wax pellet, doesn't last forever. The actual IAC mounts on the same cast housing. The ECU (and therefore the IAC which is electronically controlled) knows no difference how the air is entering the motor weather it is via the fast idle valve or past the set screw since the FIAV opens/closes by a passive/mechanical process. There is nothing to throw off in this situation. The icing on the cake that makes the thing really dumb is the piping hot coolant that heats up the TB to engine water temps. Great way to crank up those intake temps on a boosted SI motor..."got an efficient intercooler, well fuck off let's pipe that air through a 190degF throttle body" lol I agree people shouldn't just go mess around with bypass screws, but I actually know how things work and you are trying to troubleshoot a problem (you understand how this works too) and aren't looking for a long term bandaid "fix". Yeah I understand the concept now, I just don't like how it is implemented at WOT. The idea of not fighting the alternator field on startup is awesome, can't go wrong there. I just don't like dropping the set point at WOT, the idea of discharging the battery at WOT to get a couple extra ponies to the ground seems silly to me (I've always wanted more voltage at WOT and don't like discharging batteries unless starting). That's why I asked if there was any aftermarket controllers for the external regulators, I'd love something like that. I can only imagine how frustrating being a mechanic is, you guys are saints and should get paid more (I'm positive I make even less $$$ though ). "You changed my oil last week and now my radio doesn't work, what did you do!?!" That said, I am not here to challenge your opinions. You can be direct and don't have to "explain like I am 5 y/o" when pointing something out. On another note, I'm pumped to go into work today. I have to move some stuff with a big old military reach lift that hasn't been fired up in a while. The thing has a 2-stroke series 92 detroit V8 diesel and sounds amazing. 1 huge ass exhaust valve per cylinder and a massive blower on there, hell yeah! Just like this one but without the turbo on top of the blower:

If there is a problem with the fast idle air valve/cold start bypass I'd argue there is no harm that can be done by manually adjusting how much air goes around the butterfly, especially on a EFI engine. Fuel delivery will behave exactly the same regardless of how the air enters the engine assuming there is no leak in the intake after the MAF (or doesn't matter at all on a speed/density MAP setup). As long as the air is metered, why would it matter how it enters the manifold? Sure fueling could get wonky with a carb if you are just letting more air into the engine willy-nilly but I see no reason why bypassing the TB a little more could be a problem if you have a low idle on an EFI setup. I read up on PCM controlled charging systems and holy shit that's a lot of logic for seemingly minute benefits, but very cool none the less. I like the idea of having a lower voltage set point while starting that's a nice feature, but not so much the lower set point at WOT just to get a little extra engine power to the ground. Extended battery life seems like a near wash to me. I find it odd that is listed as a feature right along with the point about lowering set point below battery voltage at WOT which, you know, discharges the battery lol. I get a solid 10 years or so out of basic autozone/costco batteries anyway. IMO, a battery should never be allowed to discharge while the motor is turning on a factory system; it is there to turn the starter and that's it. Are there any aftermarket products that let you control the set points on the external regulators manually? I'd love to be able to set these values at WOT to get a little extra juice to the ignition and fuel pump under boost as opposed to running a huge fuel pump and closing plug gaps just to keep the sparks firing under boost. A user controlled voltage vs. an RPM/throttle position table would be something I'd love personally. I had two DSMs where I needed enough pump to the point where the stock fuel pressure regulator simply couldn't physically bypass enough fuel back to the tank at idle that I had to use a big ass aftermarket regulator for no other reason than "it has a bigger hole on the bottom". If I could have set idle speed/low throttle voltages to ~battery voltage and cranked it up to 14-15V at WOT I would have been able to save lots of $$$ on fuel parts and kept decent plug gaps with stock ignition. If your external regulator is in fact the problem here, can you simply check battery voltage at idle and make sure it isn't overvolting or something? Best of luck troubleshooting, I hope it's a quick/cheap fix whatever the issue...those modules are expensive

I doubt it is the alternator load pulling your idle down. Most voltage regulators I've run into have been integrated into to alternator itself and run independently from any outside control. Also, even at max output at idle, it takes only ~1hp to drive say a 90A alternator (~50% max output at idle speeds/~70% efficiency= 64.3A*~13.5V is only like 865W to drive a maxed out 90A rated alternator at idle speed). An AC compressor takes way more power to drive than that, same with a power steering pump moving cold oil. You can already rule out the alternator being the problem if you put a big load on the electrical system while it is running at low idle, maybe by firing up the window defroster or something. If the engine bogs even more (would indicate alternator is not at max output before hand), it's not the alternator and points towards the idle speed control system itself. If there is no noticeable change, it's possible I guess. From your description of it bogging more when you load the electrical, I seriously doubt the alternator is the culprit since that shows it's output wasn't maxing out before the load. What engine is this? Do you have a manual air bypass screw on the throttle body? Lots of motors have both an automated cold idle bypass and a manual one. I know my 4g63's like a little extra air at idle when starting in the winter so I back off (open up) the manual screw a bit in the cold months. The automated bypasses are absolute shit on these things so dealing with strange idle behavior is something I've dealt with a lot!

This is correct, every joule pulled from the wall for a PC (or any electrical device really) is converted to heat. Even the energy for the fans/lights is converted to heat; the air from a fan slows down immediately and the friction that slows the air down is now...heat! Yep, if the goal is to heat/cool a specific area, moving energy with a heat pump could be considered more "efficient" compared to a resistor. @djdwosk97 , using your PC to warm your room is exactly the same efficiency as a conventional space heater (100% electrical->thermal conversion).

Sweet, glad you can read it. No worries on updating the doc, I'm sure I'll pester you in a week or two with 2 more points and some 11.5/2003 numbers anyway! Thanks for convincing me earlier that my voltage issue was likely the mobo/bios. I have been hesitating to update my bios since Asrock specifically state which versions have microcode updates (I stayed away from them until today), but I wouldn't have found the forum post with the guy claiming ver2.80p for my board fixed the same issue unless you pointed me in that direction!

Did this work @Jumper118 ? I honestly am the biggest noob ever, I don't even have a Facebook or Twitter account so this is foreign territory for me D: I just play games and work on cars

Holy shit, it is! Umm, can I upload the 5760x2160 jpeg to LTT, how does that work?

Yeah window's scaling makes r15 and other programs super blurry, but it is hard to click on shit at 3840x2160 without it . Can you copy the image from the photobucket link and zoom in with paint or something? Still not very clear, but definitely readable. Need some anti-aliasing with this damn text scaling! If not, I'm sure I'll run again with better memory values and get some r11.5 and 2003 scores too. I guess I could disable the 2nd screen in windows so the shot is 16:9 too, should look way better.

Nice, yeah these are just bargain bin 2x8GB dimms I got at microcenter for $45 plus tax last summer. They are Crucials rated at 2400MHz cl16 Well, just got to the limits. I pushed more volts than I wanted, but again with the useless LLC on this board I wasn't actually running as high of voltage as in the screenshot under load. I need to get this memory under control and should be able to break 190cb in R15 single thread, but this will have to do for now (sorry for the resolution, the 2nd monitor isn't even on?): 481/189cb R15 "Ghetto Fabulous":

What voltage do you run your ddr4 at? I have a little extra cooling with the top down flow from the stock cooler but just failed a boot at 28xx MHz, dropped the divider and am back in windows at 27xx

Sorry my explanation wasn't very good of the temp thing. Since I can't read temps above stock clocks, I am just cranking the voltage at stock to see how hot it gets in r15 and "guessing" how much it will increase with clocks at the same voltage Obviously they will go a bit higher with clocks, but it at least gives me an idea of what the voltage/heat curve looks like. I'm pretty familiar with skirting on the edge of "too hot", those 8320 scores of mine in the doc are on a hyper 212 evo at 4.88GHz lol Turns out the mem controller wasn't the issue either, no problem booting and running r15 at 2760MHz with loose timings and 1.25v on the dimms with the new bios. I'm at 179/455cb so far, let's see how far it will go!