TheStyne

That seems pretty normal to me, I had similar utilization with Asus Aura back in the day.

Sorry, I'm not sure what file you downloaded. Here's a direct download link for the wifi driver, specifically. Then you want to unzip the file, put it on your USB drive, and then on your new computer go to "The name of your USB drive"\WT\UWD\Win64\Installer and run WirelessSetup.exe. If you need more help, let me know!

Some of this is certainly down to the router, as if it was just an ISP problem then ethernet and wifi would be much closer to each other. Do you have another router you can try, even and ISP provided one? Just to remove some variables.

To be honest, there is no point speculating and getting your mind set on buying one thing. Wait until there are reviews for products before you make up your mind, as always.

My recommendation at this point is to reinstall the games, and wait a few days to see if it happens again. If it does, feel free to send me a message, and we can troubleshoot farther at that point

Without knowing what the market is like in Indonesia, it's hard for me to say for sure whether or not that's a good deal. What I can say is that those two cards perform very similarly, and you should look up some benchmarks online to see how they will perform in the games you want to play. ~4 years ago when I bought my 1060 6GB, I seem to remember the 1060 pulling ahead of the 580 on average in the games I liked to play, but that was a while ago now. Ultimately, my recommendation is to look up some benchmarks, and decide if that amount of performance is worth that amount of money to you, personally.

Interesting. Have you had anything else go missing from this hard drive? Take a look around at other non-steam programs and files, see if they all open correctly and make sure that personal files are still there. I find it very unlikely that 6 Steam games would be the only thing affected if this was a HDD issue, so I'm leaning towards Steam issue, as @Mel0nMan suggested.

Have you tried downloading the drivers for it yet? You can find the Intel Wifi driver here. If you don't have ethernet available to you, you can download the drivers on another computer and transfer them using a USB drive

How many games did this happen to? Is it possible that something happened while updating these games, like unexpected power loss?

I would first check the drive's SMART status, as this can reveal many errors. This article explains how to do it with CrystalDiskInfo, which is typically how I check SMART data.

Fair enough, I've had lots of bad extension cables too. A thunderbolt dock/hub should solve your problem, but it's going to be a pretty big investment to get the card and a decent hub. You should also watch out for hubs that claim to be "Thunderbolt" when they're actually just USB. Because Thunderbolt 3/4 support USB communications, you'll often find hubs that claim to be thunderbolt, but are really just thunderbolt compatible. My Dell WD15, for example, is one of these docks. Just make sure to read all documentation about it before purchasing.

This sounds like a missing driver issue to me, have you gone to the manufacturers support page for your dongle and downloaded the driver?

It sounds like you're hitting a bandwidth limit, as you suggested. I've had a similar problem with my Dell WD15 USB C dock, when I have a monitor connected to it. If you have a wired keyboard, is it possible to just buy a USB extension cable and use that to connect the keyboard directly to the tower? This would avoid shared link bandwidth limitations, and would be pretty cheap to setup.

I've got this arm, and I'm pretty happy with it. Sits on top of the desk, supports up to 2 27" monitors.

Do you have a laptop, or maybe one you could borrow even? If you could do school on the laptop, you could try booting the computer up for the first time all day in the afternoon when you go to play games, so that you can see if the issue is related to the amount of time it's been powered on.

So I'm trying to update a friend of mine's computer, because they're all the way back on Windows 10 version 1903. The update fails every time it downloads though, and the troubleshooter says it can't access the System Reserved Partition. After following the troubleshooting steps it linked me to (see this page), I get to the final step for Windows 10 GPT(it's GPT, I checked), and it just says "Access is denied." When I go into Disk Management, this is what it look like, disk 1 being the boot drive and disk 0 being an old hard drive: So as far as I can tell, there's no System Reserved partition at all? The extra hard drive USED to be the boot drive, before he upgraded to and SSD. Could the reserved partition have been lost in the process? Any ideas are of course appreciated. Thanks, Alex.

First result on Google: MediaTek Helio G35 vs MediaTek Helio P70: What is the difference? (versus.com)

Case is 100% personal opinion. Pick on you like the look of, or pick the cheapest one available on Amazon, won't have a huge effect on performance. The only thing to really watch out for is airflow, you don't really want a solid plastic or glass front. Otherwise, just pick one with the features you want at the price point you're willing to pay. I've got the Phanteks Eclipse P350X, very happy with it.

Lmao, likely down to internet speed really, if you were playing on a server

I recommend Vistaprint, not necessarily the cheapest but very reasonably priced and very good quality in my experience.

I'm not an expert, but in my experience when you have a faulty GPU, CPU, RAM, etc then the problem presents itself through a blue screen or freeze, as windows tries to pick up the pieces of the missing hardware. In this case, since the whole computer shuts off I really suspect a power delivery problem, either in the 24 pin or the entire power supply. I suppose it could also be some kind of problem with the wiring in your home, so you could also try another outlet and make sure it isn't connected to a power strip or extension cord. I doubt it, though, considering it happens randomly as opposed to when under load.

It certainly could be, but no way to be 100% sure without checking. Could also be the Strimer, no idea what the quality of that thing is like. Best bet would honestly be to hook all power supply cables directly into the components and give it a try, just to rule out any variables. I know it's a hassle, but that would be my personal next step

Sounds like a power delivery issue, given that it suddenly reboots without warning. Usually if it was some other component at fault you would get a blue screen or freeze, or something. I've personally never heard of Super Flower as a power supply brand, but that one looks like it's in the A Tier on the forum so it should be a good model. I don't suppose you have another power supply to try?

I'd recommend selling the RAM, but otherwise I don't really think there's a card that would do this for you. From what I understand, RAM disks are usually done in software, since speed and latency is usually the goal of a RAM disk. It would make more sense to just sell the 32GB of RAM, and then buy an SSD and get far more storage for the same amount of money.

I wouldn't worry about those temps. They're kinda high, but they're definitely nothing to worry about. Especially since it's not while gaming, it's not realistically going to affect the longevity or performance of your CPU.