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About kofman13

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  1. i installed windows on a spare hard drive and the issue was not there so its not hardware. I dont really want to do a reformat yet on my main drive so im still trying to see how i can fix this issue.
  2. i tested with nothing but one of my keyboards or one single mouse and nothing else. still happens. tested all usb ports. still happens. even happens in safe mode. someone else told me maybe its a conflicting or overlapping USB driver and to try to remove all usb drivers and install one. (since i think it started happening after i installed this usb switcher)
  3. MSI X99 Gaming 7 i7 5820K 16 gb ram gtx 1070 strix 8 gb I am on the latest version of windows BEFORE the recent 2004 feature update. I think this started happening after the august 12 update. Basically randomly after booting, the 2nd or 3rd, sometimes even the first USB device like a keyboard or mouse i plug in will not work. It comes up in device manager and windows 10 devices list, but dont actually work. The keyboard will show plugged in by windows but wont output keypresses. same with mouse, the cursor wont move, but its recognized. its like its
  4. forgot to mention i already tested with only one keyboard and mouse connected and no other usb devices conneted. i have a 1000w power supply it should easily handle this. And i dont want two keyboards and two mice and other stuff all plugged in and taking up desk space when i only need each one for different tasks. i like a clean setup. and i have a nice shelf for the peripherals for work and play. just my preference, plenty of people do this and my power supply should easily handle this. again im not actually ever using all 12 usb ports or even more than one mouse and keyboard at a time so th
  5. Windows 10 latest versoin updated two days ago (have not installed the 2004 feature update though). 5820K i7, 16gb ram, x99 msi gaming 7 mobo, gtx 1070 8 GB. So i started noticing a very weird issue. Its kind of hard to explain. If i plug/unplug any usb devices 4 or 5 times, the NEXT usb device plugged in will not be responsive, and will cause all other usb devices to also stop responding (IF they are plugged in a second time). for example. plug in my printer, plug in a mouse, unplug my full size keyboard, plug in my 60% keyboard, plug in my full size keyboard again for work office s
  6. So i am going to calibrate my monitors for the first time today. I watched videos on DisplayCal to prepare and i see that in the beginning settings they ask what gamma you want to calibrate for, which depends on if you edit in a brightly lit room or dark room or w/e. what type of room lighting is ideal? I know that you want neutral white light if you have any light in your editing space, avoid reflections and direct light on monitor blah blah. but what gamma/room light brightness is best for editing? higher gamma/brighter lights, or lower gamma (which i like the look of...)/darker room
  7. So i game with a GPW and MM711. but for long hours in my recording studio like 8 hours at a time working on client projects, i need something way more ergonomic and bigger. I aim well with small mice but im finding that my mice are too small for just relaxing for 8 hours using a mouse consistently. I also want an infinity scroll wheel. My G502 is almost broken and i hate the cord. The lightspeed 502 is a bit too pricey. The Mx Master 2S at like $80 and Mx Master 3 at $99 seems better and has better productivity and office applications. I am trying to decide between the two. The buttons an
  8. I just got a pair of iKMultimedia iLoud Micro monitors and they are so amazing. i connect to them via bluetooth with my phone but when producing on my studio pc i need to use my focusrite 2i2 for various reasons. It has two 1/4 inch outs for output. the iLoud micros have two input choices, red/white RCA or 3.5mm. so i am trying to figure out which wire/adapter i need to order so i can plug them into my focusrite. is there a quality difference between 3.5mm and RCA? which one should i be using?
  9. I do gaming, content consumption, and non-professional but enthusiast level video and photo editing on my dual display setup on my windows computer (two different brands). And I am often working on the same content on my MacBook Pro as well. All 3 displays look wildly different in terms of white balance and I want to calibrate them all to adhere to color standards so I can stop worrying and fiddling once and for all. So far everyone ive asked as recommended the X-rite i1 Display Pro. As “the best” colorimeter. Around $210 it fits my budget. Apparently its the fastest longest lasting calib
  10. Just got the new Acer Predator XB273 X and noticed this IPS glow and backlight bleed. on lower left i dont notice in games or videos just when i look at black screen but has me worried. but its such a hassle to return and also wait for new one, and what if new one isnt better? what if has dead pixel? then ill have to return again and wish i kept the first one.
  11. Looking for recommendations for a good pair of speakers under $200. not 2.1, dont want a separate subwoofer. Right now budget doesnt allow for something like yamaha HS8(or5) and an external audio interface. need Something that packs a punch for gaming but also is not too colored and neutral so i can use it for audio production and video editing as well.
  12. My router has two “SSID networks” one for 2.4ghz and one for 5ghz. Each show up separately when searching for wifi signals. 2.4ghz-only devices connect to that one, and everything else is on my 5ghz. So it would seem like they are two different networks. But when I go to my Asus router control page, it shows “Client list” and its showing BOTH all my 5ghz devices and my 2.4ghz devices even though they each log into different SSIDs. So does that mean they are on the same network even though on different SSIDs and can communicate with each other? I am asking this because I was looking to ge