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VadersDad

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Everything posted by VadersDad

  1. Since this seems to be a rejuvenated thread and I have undergone some pretry big hardware changes, here is my rig, version...who knows?
  2. I’m full well aware of the differences, They just simply don’t matter to the vast majority of casual users, most people will never touch any of it.
  3. Unless this guy is needing Remote Desktop and running a bunch of VMs in another room, yet still needing advice on pc parts, win10 home is just fine. As it is for most everyday users
  4. Kinda gets under my skin that every time I see someone give away codes, etc and do something like this, you rarely ever see the person that gets it pop back on to say thank you. Maybe I’m a tool, idk.
  5. Yeah dude it’s unfortunate if that’s the case, I ordered mine thru Newegg and gigabytes service is crap so I was out the 350 or whatever. Good luck man.
  6. I play many of the games you listed and I’m not happy at 4K with my 3090 in a couple of them. Your gonna make big graphic sacrifices to be smoothly playable at 4K, it’s doable, but 1440 would be a far more pleasant experience
  7. Those 4 rapid beeps before the one sounds like real time clock malfunction. Had a z390 aorus master that did this same thing to me shortly after my 3080 install. Motherboard took a crap on me. Checked ram, swapped cpu, gpu power supply checking everything. Same gen hardware (ryzen 3000/Intel 9th gen), may be worth checking into. Not what you want to hear , but your case sounds eerily similar to mine.
  8. I have a 10 bit hdr 1000 x35, and if I go above 144hz it requires me to use 8 bit due to bandwidth limitations. I don’t have the professional discerning eye but I pay attention, and the difference is noticeable to me, but unless you are a professional user, the cost for a 10+bit panel isn’t justifiable to the masses IMO.
  9. This. I already had a MSI 3080, but caught a BB drop in early November this very way for my 3090 FE
  10. I don’t know much about European pricing, or your overall budget, but a 1440 144hz would be a much better use of the added horsepower than sticking to 1080. I personally use a 1440 ultrawide and love it. Samsung makes good gaming monitors across the board. If you want higher refresh/better panel than 144hz, look at the G7 line, but they are another level up in pricing.
  11. IMO that’s not a great idea running a 3080 for a setup that you want to achieve 1080@ 75fps. 1080 @75fps is fine by all means if thats your goal, but if your looking to stay in this generation, go 3070, and that’s still overkill. My humble recommendation would be if your gonna go current gen RTX, upgrade your monitor to a minimum of 144hz if you stay at 1080p, otherwise your honestly throwing money out. edit: with a 3080, 144hz may be still low, definitely for future. I put my 2080ti in a build for my dads house on a 144hz dell and that thing maxes that monitor on MANY games
  12. If youve narrowed it down to the monitor, it's definitely a defect from the monitor itself, the gpu wouldn't cause damage to the monitor. You can try removing the basic drivers associated, but that's a prayer. I had the same monitor for 2 years and never saw anything of the sort, I hate to say it but it looks screwed. And acer support isn't great when you are under warranty edit: if you haven't already tried, I'll piggyback on what a previous post said because it reminded me, definitely unplug it for a few minutes and try it again. I've seen that clear some oddities on TVs and monitors before.
  13. 2 were ips, the other 2 VA. The x35 I have now is VA and ghosting is a non issue for me, but on my 1080 z35 it was terrible. And I would never suggest spending that much on a monitor, I did and I love it, but believe me I know it's stupid. As for the LG 38, my buddy has one, it's really nice from what I've seen of it. The only drawback for me was it's only hdr 400 if I'm not mistaken. But for you that might not even matter.
  14. I'm on my 4th ultrawide. Went from 75hz Korean brand 3440x1440 to a 2560x1080 200hz gsync z35 predator to a Asus 3440x1440 100hz g sync pg348q to my newest Acer Predator x35 200hz hdr 1000 g sync ultimate 3440x1440. None of the models are inherently bad, you just end up paying more for hz, g sync modules, hdr support, etc etc. if you end up going the super expensive route I would recommend the predator x35 over the asus Pg35vq due to the fact the panels are essentially the same. The difference lies in that the asus has a DAC built in to the monitor(unnecessary unless you already don't have one). Here in the US, even though msrp on both is the same, you can regularly find the predator for 2-300$ cheaper.
  15. Not worth it. If you have money to blow to upgrade from a 9900k to a ks, then a new mobo shouldn't be an issue. Wait on 10th gen or ryzen if your heart is set on a better cpu.
  16. Nope, change the sensitivity or move your mic. If your mechanical don't click, its Probably not working right. Or ditch your mechanical and buy a nice membrane keyboard ( not a route I would go, but nonetheless)
  17. I've literally used mx4 and thermal grizzly on the same 9900k in the past month and temps were as kelvinhall said, negligible. The edge went to thermal grizzly by like 2 degrees. But you get less paste and pay more for the thermal grizzly
  18. The build seems fine for your use case. If possible though, I'd Try to shell out the extra 25-50 dollars for a 1tb SSD of any kind rather than a Hard Drive, even on a budget build, It will make your entire setup that much more efficient and snappy. Good luck with the build!
  19. Dude that is beyond absurd, I would be irate. Had a similar thing happen at microcenter a couple years back, bought a open box PG348Q, sticker said good on it, brought it home, corner of the screen was cracked from clearly being dropped. noticed the sticker was over another one, peeled it back and sure as s*** the yellow sticker said cracked screen on it. In my case I threw a giant bitch fit and had unmistakable proof they were shady, they gave me a brand new one for the same price as open box. Best of luck on your RMA.
  20. I have a CDL and used to drive over the road also. I know you said you dont want laptops, but i used to have a Nvidia 900 series MSI Titan laptop with desktop 980s SLI'd. Those things are the real deal, albeit heavy, low battery life and are like ovens. You can get killer performance from a laptop, you just have to be willing to part with battery life and a s*** ton of money. And for reference, I have identical desktop specs to you, literally. And I'm watching it all on an X35 Predator, so i completely understand not wanting performance loss. Just a personal opinion from someone in your shoes.
  21. PC Additions Acer Predator X35 200hz HDR (replaced ROG PG348q) 1TB Sandisk Extreme NVME m.2 32GB G.Skill Trident Z Neo 16x2 3600mhz CL16 (Replaced old iffy Geil 3000 32gb) Aorus Xtreme 2080TI OC (replaced Rog Strix 1080TI) EVGA Supernova G3 1000W (replaced TT Toughpower 850) Klipsch R-41PM Monitors & R120SW Sub (replaced Klipsch Promedia 2.1) Razer BlackWidow Elite (replaced Blackwidow Chroma that mightve gotten smashed by me :/) Philips Hue Gaming Kit Surface Pro 7 i3 plus Keyboard Home Theater 75" Samsung Q6F 4K HDR QLED (Replaced 2012 70" 1080p) Pioneer VSX-LX303 9.2 Atmos Receiver (Wired in Bi-Amped 5.2.2) (Replaced 8 Yr Old Denon).
  22. i didnt realize you were fresh on windows, i thought you were actually using the 970. If i were you I would start there still, gpu drivers can be finicky at times EDIT: if this is a conflict i would go the DDU route. It just generally wipes issues like this alot better
  23. Awesome! Um i would say maybe since you were hotswapping GPU's to maybe delete the nvidia drivers and do another fresh driver install for the vega. Maybe use DDU (display driver uninstaller) if you want to super clean the drivers. At least that's where I would start. Albeit, I'm not overly familiar with AMD GPU's
  24. oh your psu may not be labeled as such. I just meant separate power sources coming from your supply
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