Computernaut

Any recommendations for engine code scanners? I'm looking to get one since I work with and around a fair number of older and/or more rundown vehicles.

Thanks in advance.

Summary

Microsoft have announced their intention to disable NTLM, mainly for security reasons. NTLM is used by many services as a way to integrate Windows/Microsoft-based authentication rather than a separate authentication systems (this is my understanding).

They had this to say in an article from October 11:

Quote

Future disablement of NTLM

Reducing the use of NTLM will ultimately culminate in it being disabled in Windows 11. We are taking a data-driven approach and monitoring reductions in NTLM usage to determine when it will be safe to disable. In the meantime, you can use the enhanced controls we are providing to get a head start. Once disabled by default, customers will also be able to use these controls to reenable NTLM for compatibility reasons.

This topic grew into quite a spirited discussion on the r/sysadmin sub-reddit, with a number of amusing comments, a well as a whole load of very legitimate concerns (link in sources). In as much as Microsoft likes to change things seemingly arbitrarily, this shift (obtrusive though it is) does make sense, since NTLM is essentially a Protocol of Theseus at this point with how many patches on top of patches on top of patches just to make it secure enough for the modern IT world.

Sources

Microsoft Article

Reddit thread

41 minutes ago, Godlygamer23 said:

G-Drive is a Western Digital brand, and when I looked up some details about it, Western Digital's page says that it has native support for Mac OS, but needs to be reformatted to work on Windows. Was it ever reformatted? If not, that would point to it being used on a Mac, and thus why it's not currently working.

 

I have a screenshot attached of the specs page.

  Reveal hidden contents

Here's a link to WD's page for it:

https://www.westerndigital.com/products/external-drives/sandisk-professional-g-drive-pro-thunderbolt-3-hdd?sku=SDPH51J-004T-NBAAD

I looked into it and it seems that the drive in indeed MacOS-based. I'm currently attempting a recovery using HFSExplorer. Thanks so much for your help!

2 minutes ago, Godlygamer23 said:

What kind of enclosure was this drive installed into?

A brand called G-Drive. It was a 2.5" drive enclosure with a USB 3.0 Type-B connection.

Just now, Blue4130 said:

That is what I expected. Was this used on a Mac or linux machine by any chance?

No idea, but I doubt it since our environment is almost exclusively Windows-based.

3 minutes ago, Godlygamer23 said:

Try using MiniTool Partition Wizard and see if it's able to do something with them, barring total deletion.

The File System in MiniTool shows up as "Other." There is also no "Change letter" option like there is for normal partitions.

2 minutes ago, Blue4130 said:

What file system are they using?

I can't tell since the Properties option for the partitions is greyed out.

1 minute ago, AbydosOne said:

Is the drive greater than 2TB?

Nope, just 1 TB.

I found an old drive at work recently and was tasked with discovering what is on it. It was originally in an external enclosure, but the enclosure is broken so I took out the hard drive and connected it directly to my computer via SATA. Disk Management reports two partitions on the disk, but I am unable to do anything with them (all options are greyed out save for Delete Volume, which I don't want to do in case there is important data there). I tried using PowerShell to assign drive letters to these mystery partitions, and while PowerShell itself seemed to think the command worked, neither Disk Management or File Explorer can find any drive letter.

Thoughts?

25 minutes ago, E-waste said:

Sony.  Headphone jack, great camera, excellent dac (audio chip), and many of them have a fingerprint reader.

 

Also, ALL sony smartphones, all the way back to models from 2012 can have the bootloader unlocked, using Sony's instructions.  So you can get an older model, unlocked the bootloader, put LineageOS on it, and have an up to date software setup.  This can save you money and reduce electronic waste.

Are there any that you would recommend specifically? A lot of them are weirdly difficult to find.

3 hours ago, venomtail said:

Have a browse at what you might like and what's available in your region. I'd say at the budget market the appeal is either the Chinese phones because hardware wise they'll be afloat to the competition, Samsung often rides on its branding in the budget range or Nokia cause they seem to be very reliable and have taken a friendly approach to reparability which could be a benefit in the long term (even tho it's not the same Finnish Nokia from 20 years ago).

 

Bonus search with your desired requirements making these seem like the top 3 options, each giving up something for something else, like Note 12R giving up OLED for a faster chip.

I'm always a little skeptical of some of the cheaper brands, since they tend to lack polish. The antitrust debacle with Huawei also makes me a little suspicious of Chinese brands specifically. Apologies if I'm starting to sound insanely picky at this point.

I'm not really a Samsung fan, and I know they trust their branding too much (they're the Apple of the Android world in many ways). I actually rejected some of the other A-series phones because of this. The A54 stood out though, especially in the camera department, which is why I'm not dead set against it.

As for performance, I'm not a power-user (at all) so, while I like my phone to be snappy, I don't really need flagship-tier specs. If given the choice, I'd much rather have a nice screen and good software. With that in mind, the best of the Chinese phones you sent a list for would be the Infinix Note 30 VIP, but I can hardly 

 even find anywhere to buy it, let alone anywhere reputable.

11 hours ago, dizmo said:

Do you actually find that useful though? Genuinely curious.

I've done the unlocked device thing, and a lot of the time it simply didn't work out to be that worthwhile. I don't change carriers every year.

Honestly it's a personal preference. But there are some practical uses too. For example, if I were to visit a different country I could just pop in a local sim and be all set. I don't travel much, but I like to have the option. I don't intend to change carriers, but again, having the option is nice.

5 minutes ago, dizmo said:

You're not on a contract?

No. I prefer the flexibility and ownership of having an unlocked device that I can do what I want with.

I've had my current phone, an LG G6, for two years now. I love it for many reasons, but it's practically geriatric by smartphone standards and is starting to show some of that age.

I looked at quite a few reviews today, but I want to make the most informed decision possible and it's been a while since I was properly tapped into the smartphone world.

In general, these are my requirements:

• Budget: CAD $250-$500
• 3.5mm jack
• MicroSD or 256+ GB
• Good rear camera
• Fingerprint reader

There are also some "bonus" features/qualifications I might be willing to part with if the phone is on the cheaper end:

• IP ingress protection
• 90+ Hz display
• Good speakers
• Mainstream/well-known brand

With all that in mind, I was looking at the Motorola Moto G72. I also really liked the Samsung Galaxy A54 and the Google Pixel 6a, but they don't have a headphone jack so unless I can find a really good deal on one, I'm not too inclined to do that.

On 7/15/2023 at 2:55 PM, RoseLuck462 said:

Anthony? Never heard of him, maybe Emily knows. 

So we just gonna pretend there wasn't someone called Anthony who worked for LMG for years?

On 7/6/2023 at 7:31 AM, Sarra said:

There's a thread about this in OT, it was locked.

 

Short version: Emily doesn't feel comfortable appearing on camera right now, so gi er it some time.

I looked for that thread but couldn't find it. Did they remove it completely?

1 hour ago, Bitter said:

Rod knock, timing chain slap, or a heat shield. I'd lean toward timing chain slap, chains are common for those engines but probably you should check for loose rods

Why would rods cause that (out of curiosity)?

Not sure if this is the right place, but what are your thoughts on this sounds my engine (VQ35DE) makes when slowing down?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VL9wbWenwZyjijGzCH2BNPfkGCTgH70L/view?usp=sharing

I remember seeing an LTT video quite some time ago where Linux repeatedly said "Dang it, Jake!", but I don't remember the context/situation. I've been trying to find the video, but no luck. Does anyone happen to remember what video that was?

1 hour ago, Godlygamer23 said:

Increase your temperature limit.

Also run an actual game or proper benchmark. FurMark is set to have lower clocks and power draw in drivers due to it being a power virus.

Thanks! I tried an actual game and yup, it went right up to around 1,800 MHz. I had no idea Furmark did that (glad I mentioned it too so you could let me know).

1 hour ago, Skiiwee29 said:

You're card appears to be thermal throttling since its sitting at 85c even with 100% fan speed. This is likely why you aren't hitting higher boost clocks.

I thought of that, but it doesn't totally make sense. You can see in the graphs that the clocks were low even before the card got hot. It's also still running at its full TDP, if it was throttling, it would be lower, no?

I've discovered a strange issue with my 2060S. For no apparent reason, it has trouble running faster than about 1,500 MHz. As I understand it, my card should be able to hit ~1,750 MHz or more quite easily. I first noticed this when I decided today to try and under-volt it, though I expect it's always been like this and I merely didn't notice (I noticed the issue before changing any settings). This is an MSI Afterburner screenshot I took while running Furmark and using the default fan curve:

As you can see, the clock hovers around ~1,400 MHz, but the card is still hitting its ~175W TDP. According to TechPowerUp, even a founders card (I have a dual-fan Gigabyte Windforce) should hit 1650 MHz or so. If it wasn't running at TDP, I'd guess it was a temps problem, but the card not clock higher before heating up.

I re-installed ("Game-Ready") drivers before taking the screenshot, so that shouldn't be the issue either.

1 hour ago, Alex Atkin UK said:

Install without the code, make sure all drivers are installed/updated and THEN try to do the activation.

Just make sure you install the right version of Windows for the code, as it will ask you which version to install if you install without a code.

Windows is already installed with all applicable drivers and such. That's not the issue. The issue is that, though the OS knows it's not activated and complains about it, going into the activation tab in Settings yields and aforementioned error.

A built a new PC about a month ago and installed Windows onto the new boot drive (using a bootable USB made with Microsoft's Media Creation Tool). I have a product key, but I am not able to enter it as the activation page for windows simply says "We can't reach a critical Windows service. Make sure you're connected to the Internet, wait a few minutes, and try activating again.   Error code: 0x80070426"

Nothing I'm doing seems to work. I've tried a various ways of deactivating and reactivating a number of services and such, as that seemed to be a common theme among the solutions I found online, but that didn't help.

22 hours ago, GuiltySpark_ said:

What are you using for temperature monitoring? (It should be HWiNFO64) 84c isn't too hot at all for Ryzen 5000, assuming you're hitting the boost clocks you expect to be hitting and therefore the performance. 

 

Run a Cinebench R23 multicore test and report the score.

The score from Cinebench was 15230.

The CCD and CPU package were roughly 90 degrees the whole time with the cores in the 85-90 range. Clocks still seemed decently high though and it pulled around 135 watts the whole time. I'm just not used to having a CPU that runs this hot, even if it technically is within spec, so I was wondering if I had done something wrong.