KhakiHat

45 minutes ago, GloriousGamer321 said:

a mounting adapter and I don't want the cooler to be like this https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-chromax-Black-Dual-Tower-Cooler/dp/B07Y87YHRH/ref=sr_1_3?crid=AIBDY3OQJ60&keywords=noctua+cpu+cooler&qid=1646068639&sprefix=noctua+cpu+coole%2Caps%2C136&sr=8-3

I use a noctua D15 cooler on my i7-12700k and it runs perfectly, though I understand not wanting the beef it comes with.

Is there a size constraint you are trying to avoid? Outside of not being "huge"?

Edit: I have run into clearance problems with high profile DDR5 RAM, I had to move a fan upward. Luckily wasn't a problem because my case is extremely large.

Are you staying in the ecosystem? Like Intel to Intel or AMD to AMD? If so, you're probably fine outside of any motherboard BIOS changes you may have made(those would need to be changed again on the new motherboard).

Personally, I've never had any issues with just keeping the same OS install on whatever medium I have it installed on.

You may have to select which drive to boot from, but most systems auto-detect an OS install regardless of the OS.

I definitely wouldn't choose Norton.

Usually I just remove any bloatware that might have been installed at the factory of whatever PC brand I chose. You could maybe have taken the files with a simple copy and paste and just copy them into a folder to be dragged onto a USB of some sort, then once you've installed the non free software on the fresh install OS, delete all of its local files and put the old copy and pasted files in its place instead. I used to use that DIY method all the time for Minecraft back in the day when some of my buddies didn't have purchased copies. 

1 minute ago, Linus No Beard said:

i dont want to destroy my windows install messing around with linux forever also i dont have unlimited time

You could try to build out a system in a virtual machine, but fair point. It would probably take longer to get going, but at this rate of not finding anything useful...

I mean you could always just find individual tutorials for each, then troubleshoot with them all until you have a working system.

What is your model of power supply? and monitor?

Is everything up to date? drivers, OS, etc.?

Which model of CPU do you have?

You could try Daemon Tools.

Depending on where you are buying a GPU from, the Newegg shuffle has GPU's for sale closer to MSRP if you can snag one. It's essentially a raffle for the ability to buy a GPU.

There is probably something within the DIY keyboard community, a lot of keyboards have custom firmware flashes.

Is thermal paste making full contact with the entire CPU lid/heat spreader?

I have DDR5 RAM clocked at 5600Mhz and have noticed no differences between the DDR4 RAM clocked at 3600Mhz I had prior. The current pricing makes it not worth it right now.

edit: Also I noticed that you don't have a power supply within your pricing. If you plan to grab an i9 and a 3080 ti, the more power the better in my experience. a 600watt PSU would be cutting it close on the power consumption scale, especially if you're planning on pushing both parts equally.

It's probably just Steam being Steam. With my gigabit connection, I experience the same thing.

Arch Linux is for pen-testing isn't it? It might be a feature of Arch Linux to delete some local files upon restarting. I'm not super familiar with Arch Linux, but just a possible suggestion.

Is it specific games or all games? That's a decent GPU but certainly not a powerhouse of a GPU. Are you using v-sync when playing the said games or do you have v-sync turned off, depending on your use-case, both may help one way or the other.

Is the CPU running stock or is it overlocked?

If you are running it overclocked, I would maybe go for either a custom loop or at least a 360mm setup. With my NZXT 360mm AIO, I haven't experienced any issues with cooling my 10900k.

1 hour ago, Sloppy_Joe said:

My router is a TP-Link AC1750, and my router was one that my ISP gave me.  The thing that is weird is that it barely happens with Call of Duty anymore, and when it does happen in Call of Duty or Tarkov it happens almost as soon as I load into the game itself, not even when I join a server or lobby.

I used to have similar issues with Call of Duty: Warzone last year. 

Call of Duty is a known internet killer, wouldn't surprise me if other games have similar problems. 

Do you know what model of router/modem you have?

I have constant issues with the HDR modes on my LG monitors, though I have the 27" 2k 165hz and the 27" 2k 144hz, not the 4k model.

What was average FPS prior to today? 

The settings you are playing at? Resolution?

Which storage device is the game stored on? Has that changed?

Have you tried doing a game repair/fix(or whatever the equivalent is for overwatch)?

Playing at 4k usually takes a beast of a rig, depending on the screen size, performance will vary. If you stick to just sims and city builders, it should be alright.

It also may not be a complete necessity that you buy thermal paste. Usually coolers come with a layer of it ready to be placed(pre-applied).

The parts list link is private, you'll have to make it public for anyone here to be able to see it.

On 12/19/2021 at 1:52 AM, treisdorf said:

Thanks for the suggestions?

 

Would sharing my PSU and the wattage help at all? I don't know how to find that information out.

Sharing that info would help significantly. You would have to open up the PC to find out as it isn't listed anywhere within the PC specifications.