rhyseyness

3 hours ago, TheSinisterGamer said:

no restraints on money or fitting size I was going with i believe 10 mm tubing but that is fine to change. again mounting I'll figure out, Its just size that has been a major issue. 55 mm is max space.

So have you looked into the motherboard waterblocks?

The ones which cover the CPU, VRM etc.

Having a look yesterday, they looked a lot "shorter" than actual CPU blocks.

Maybe have a look into them?

I'm not sure how they mount, but I'm sure you can figure something out

7 hours ago, TheSinisterGamer said:

Thank you, when I get to this point I will definitely do this. I ended up running into an issue with the parts I chose, they were just a few MM too large. The clearance I have for the waterblock, radiator, and fan (these three things have to stack on each other, not ideal but its minuscule temperature changes) is only 55 mm and I currently cover 58 mm's. Does anyone know of a low form factor waterblock that I can use. My limit for the height is 17.3 MM as that is the remaining space that I have for this. I thought it was 20 mm but I was mistaken. Anyone have an Idea? I added a base picture that its current state is if anyone was interested. I still have more work to do but it is getting their slowly. 

 

Detail of changing the logo's color and finer metal look is still later, same with the rust and the metal grating to cover the fan. 

 

 

Oh also my lady knows about her present now and is very excited, our anniversary was on the 10th but the parts didn't come in on time and I wouldn't have been able to finish it anyways so ohh well. 

Dude that looks sick!!

I'll see if I can find you a waterblock.

What's your budget and are there any other constraints? (fitting size, mounting, etc.)

On 08/07/2017 at 2:25 AM, khazad said:

Will i notice noice with an amp?, i mean for example, i can hear fine iwth the onboard audio, but it's not enough and i don't hear any noice, so i get an amp, and i'll hear the noice/interference when powered up, would that be true?

 

I'm slowly ordering the parts, already have most of them, i just need the motherboard and the GPU, but in the meantime i'm using the old pc and i wanted to start using the peripherals.

An amplifier simply makes whatever comes out of your motherboard louder.

So if there's noise on your on board, there'll be noise with an amp.

If it sounds ok, just not loud enough then an amp is what you need.

If you've got more questions, let us know

Just now, Master Disaster said:

Not necessarily, a lot of TVs will not display the BIOS of a PC when connected by HDMI, they will go on to work perfectly in Windows but will display a black screen during POST.

 

There's no way to know if yours will or won't without testing it, I have 2 TVs, my older one won't display a BIOS while my newer one displays it fine, same PC and same cable.

The issue there is that the BIOS video format was outside of the display capability of the TV.

The TV couldn't scale the BIOS screen to it's display.

I find this highly unlikely to happen on any TV from the last 10 years.

Also, BIOS' tend to be standard resolutions these days, so it's unlikely to be something the TV can't deal with.

Scaling on TVs is pretty decent these days.

Yes, will be fine.

You can build the system and use it with a TV just fine.

A post test is always a good idea, because if you build the whole computer and then find something is broken, you have to take the whole thing apart, rather than just removing the one faulty component.

Hope this helps

7 hours ago, Billy_Mays said:

The headphones have such an impeadance the motherboard can't supply enough Ohms to them but just get a DAC it's easier and cheaper (and go Ryzen instead of an i5 or i7 it's tons more cheaper)

7 hours ago, Timothy11 said:

Half right. Motherboard does not supply Ohms (a measure of electrical resistance), but yes the motherboard is not going to be powerful enough to power those headphones.

What you need is an Amp not a DAC, see this LTT video to calculate is an amp is going to be good enough 

 

High impedance does not mean hard to drive.

Also, you don't "supply ohms." Ohms is a measurement of impedance (resistance at a given a frequency, taking capacitive and inductive reactance into account).

Sensitivity is a much better measurement of how difficult a pair of headphones are to drive.

Don't get me wrong, the impedance is important and has an effect, but it's not particularly important for "do I need an amp" questions.

OP, sounds like your old on board can't supply enough power.

Best way to find out if the new one can is plug the headphones in and see how they sound.

Most modern motherboard's on board audio is pretty decent, but for something 10 years old, the same can't be said.

If the headphones are too quiet, you need an amp.

If there's noise/interference, you need a DAC.

There's no point in getting a DAC or amp for those headphones if your motherboard can drive them just fine.

You won't notice any difference.

Why do you care whether the old PC can drive them if you have a new one?

Surely whether or not the new PC can drive them is way more important?

Hope this helps

1 hour ago, TheSinisterGamer said:

I will definately have to test the power and figure out which one. I'll also look for a on/off connection. I'm also going to have to double check the ability to use it without draining too much. 

I'd recommend you just wire a switch up to the xbox "power on" signal.

If you're experienced (and by the sounds of it you are), this can be done with a transistor or a relay.

Finding the power on signal could well be easier said than done though... best bet is probably the LED on the front of the unit.

LED +ve connected to transistor base, and then collector and emitter in line with your +ve rail for the pump.

You'll need a low bias voltage transistor (<1V probably), but big enough (physically) to take the current which your pump will draw collector->emitter (1.5A max).

+ve from connector-------------Collector-----Emitter--------------Pump +ve

                                                                |

                                                             Base

                                                                |

                                                     "on" LED +ve

Hope that diagram worked

You may need a current limiting resistor between the LED and the base of the transistor.

Relay works the same way, but I doubt that signal to the LED will have enough power to drive a relay.

Finding which pin of the power connector is 12V should be easily done though.

Either measure with a multimeter, or look up online.

I have no doubt someone has done it themselves at some point or another.

EDIT: If you're gonna do this, you want to make sure whatever signal you're using as "on" (transistor base), is only high when the xbox is actually on.

Otherwise you're going to end up back with your original problem of the pump being constantly on.

The brick for the xbox one outputs 12V and 5V.

This means that the connector which plugs into the xbox end has 12V and 5V across it.

I'd recommend you solder onto one of the 12V and ground pins on the power connector inside the unit, where it's soldered to the PCB.

It's probably a through-hole connector so should be pretty easy to solder onto... only issue you might have is the PCB acting as a heat shunt.

Hope this helps

10 minutes ago, Froody129 said:

I have access to all of the tools and I'm willing to put some work into it since I enjoy tinkering with this stuff. The room I'm putting it in really isn't big so would it be worth it to get something smaller like an 8"? The sub i tried was a 12" 300w and that was more than enough, I had to turn the level pretty low or things would begin shaking  

I'm not that well versed in subwoofer design, but I have built my own speakers (build log linked in signature).

I'd have a look through my build log before you underestimate the job

As I understand for a sub you want as big and stiff of a box as possible, and a big, high quality driver.

300W is probably a bit much to be honest, unless your room is huge, lol.

I find I get plenty of bass from my speakers with 6" woofers, but it depends on the size of your room and how low you wanna go.

My speakers cut off (-3dB) at about 70Hz in a 20L (ish) cabinet.

I'd have thought you could build something decent with an 8" driver, but like I say, not well versed in subwoofer design.

This looks like a thread which might help you out: https://www.avforums.com/threads/diy-subwoofer-newbie.1931825/

Hope this helps, let us know if you have any more questions.

7 minutes ago, Dark_wizzie said:

Yes, they're not the exact same thing. But presumably we want say, 96 dB of dynamic range because the song has 96 dB of dynamic range. So the difference between the quietest and loudest sound would be 96 dB. Now I apply that to the real world, I'm listening to that hypothetical song. In order for me to hear the quietest sound it should at least be as loud as the ambient noise of my room, otherwise it's just drowned out. So to really get my 96 dB's worth of dynamic range in the real world, the loudest sound in the track would have to be 30db (ambient noise of room) + 96dB.

Good point.

As Volbet said, that kind of dynamic range is a myth really

On ‎01‎/‎07‎/‎2017 at 10:02 PM, Froody129 said:

I don't have the exact model but they're tiny Sony satellites and a pretty decent matching Sony center, I could probably find exact models or take pictures if it's really necessary. As I said, the rears are JBL satellite speakers. I "borrowed" a sub from my dad's dual sub setup and it's definitely what I need, the sound is infinitely more rich. 

 

Edit: Also any information you have on building one would be helpful, if there are cost savings to be had of course.

DIY is definitely an option, but it's likely to end up being as expensive unless you already have the woodworking tools required.

Router, F-clamps, various saws, biscuit cutter, soldering iron.... a tonne of sandpaper if you're painting + all the paint.

If you've already got all this and the skills to do it, you'd probably save a bit of money, but the drivers are still gonna be $200+.

50 minutes ago, Dark_wizzie said:

Do I actually want to hear over 96dB of dynamic range? Like, I don't think my ears will survive that.

 

30dB ambient noise in my room, add 96 (ignoring dithering which should increase it above that) = 126 = ears kill themselves.

 

 

Personally I'm already crying at 85.

 

Here's the link I personally go to about this topic, not to say there aren't good ones elsewhere: 

https://www.head-fi.org/f/threads/24bit-vs-16bit-the-myth-exploded.415361/

Research the difference between sound pressure level (measured in dB) and dynamic range (also measured in dB).

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dynamic_range

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sound_pressure

dB is used as unit to compare 2 things, not an absolute measurement.

96dB of dynamic range means 96dB between the smallest input and largest input at a given frequency.

Sound pressure level is a measure of loudness (what you're talking about) compared to silence, not compared to the same device at it's smallest possible input.

They're similar measurements, but by no means the same.

This is my understanding anyway, someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Hope this helps

On 30/06/2017 at 4:08 PM, leelaa14 said:

Sorry mate, I misread your post then. Seems like you may have found the cause of the problem though. I take it everything was fine when you plugged it directly in to the router. Hopefully you get it sorted anyway.

On 29/06/2017 at 9:05 PM, Oshino Shinobu said:

First thing I would try is plugging directly into the router and testing. If the problem goes away, it's almost certainly the powerline adaptors. I'd also advise checking your powerline adaptor's port speed. An awful lot of them advertise 500Mbps or similar bandwidth but only actually use a 100Mbps port. 

Bought new powerline adaptors yesterday, made sure I got ones with a Gigabit port.

Now working wonderfully with very few frame drops and much better latency.

Thanks very much guys

Saved me wasting money on a new router

18 hours ago, leelaa14 said:

Sorry mate, I misread your post then. Seems like you may have found the cause of the problem though. I take it everything was fine when you plugged it directly in to the router. Hopefully you get it sorted anyway.

No worries mate.

Hopefully, I haven't actually tested it yet but plan to today.

I'll post back here with results

14 hours ago, Oshino Shinobu said:

First thing I would try is plugging directly into the router and testing. If the problem goes away, it's almost certainly the powerline adaptors. I'd also advise checking your powerline adaptor's port speed. An awful lot of them advertise 500Mbps or similar bandwidth but only actually use a 100Mbps port. 

Turns out you're right, it's a 500Mbps adapter with a 100Mbps port... not really sure how this is legal, but looks like time for an upgrade!

Thanks for your help

8 hours ago, leelaa14 said:

Steam link should really be 100% wired, and going off what you're saying, it seems it isn't. Mine is fully wired and is fine, so all I can recommend is you get a long Ethernet cable and run it downstairs. You can get them pretty cheap. Think I got a 20m one for about £6.

It is 100% wired, lol.

Long Ethernet cable isn't an option, as my rooms on the third floor and the router is downstairs.

Can't move the router because it's near the adsl port, can't move my room becuase it's a room ?

8 hours ago, Oshino Shinobu said:

First thing I would try is plugging directly into the router and testing. If the problem goes away, it's almost certainly the powerline adaptors. I'd also advise checking your powerline adaptor's port speed. An awful lot of them advertise 500Mbps or similar bandwidth but only actually use a 100Mbps port. 

Might have a look into my power line adapters before changing the router then. 

Don't have an easy way of plugging my pc into the router and testing, although I could try my dad's laptop... 

I'll do that later and report back. 

New powerline adapters should be cheaper than a new router so this doesn't sound all that bad. 

Any recommendations on good ones? 

I've just received and set up my shiny new Steam Link because it was on sale.

My PC is in my room, and my router is downstairs.

My PC is wired to my router via Powerline, and steam link is Ethernet directly to the router.

Except for the Powerline adaptor (which is 500Mb/s), everything in the chain is gigabit.

I'm experiencing a lot of dropouts and latency issues with the steam link when using to play Dirt 3 (all I've tested so far).

I'm using the router supplied by my ISP (BT home hub 5).

My question is really, what can I do to improve performance?

My initial thought was get a new router, but I wanted to check this is probably the source of the issue, before I go shelling a load of money on a new router.

Anyone experienced anything similar on the home hub 5 and found a new router solved their problem?

Thanks!

On ‎26‎/‎06‎/‎2017 at 8:48 PM, Coaxialgamer said:

would ad have the throughput and latency for that though?

On ‎26‎/‎06‎/‎2017 at 9:14 PM, djdwosk97 said:

No idea, but I remember a couple years ago there was a lot of talk about how ad would solve the annoying wired vr issue. Whether or not there was any truth to that talk or just wishful thinking is beyond my knowledge. 

Data rate for 4k UHD video at 60Hz is about 12Gbps.

3840*2160*60*8*3 (number of pixels per frame*number of frames per second*number of bits per colour (8 bit colour=8 bits per colour per pixel)*number of colours (RGB)).

Although this website says even more than that so I could be wrong.

HDMI 2.0 is 18Gbps, and is capable of 4k60.

No wireless standard can currently achieve this, and these are the kind of data rates required for wireless VR...

Wireless power delivery is a whole different kettle of fish, but batteries can bridge that gap for now.

3 hours ago, Track said:

Yeah i know im not completely stupid but again as of right now im  broke so yeah it a really stupid plan and i know all the hate i was gonna get when i posted this about how crappy its gonna be so i just wanted to know if it'd actually work out and i got really overpriced pc prebuilt that i cant remove the cpu because its soldered in its socket and at that rate im better off buying a new pc only problem im broke. Anyways ill just end up using the gpu and psu in a new pc build later on the line when my warranty ends ands i gets some more cash which is my plan but at the current moment i need an operating pc. i can also get the item which is listed on amazon for cheaper ($20-30) most likely on a different site or ebay 

I might be missing something, but a new case and PSU will set you back about the same as the eGPU bay you listed.

Cheap ATX case and an inexpensive 500W PSU should cost less than $100.

Then you can just take the HDD and motherboard out of your current system (including RAM and CPU), and put it in the new case with the new PSU and graphics card.

This would be a decent upgrade for very little money.

Sorry, just realised you said you don't have a PCIe slot. Ignore all that

36 minutes ago, Froody129 said:

• You're losing a lot of performance going external 
• A 1050Ti won't cut it for 1440p gaming, at least not for long. My 1060 struggles
• At this point you might as well buy a dedicated desktop

1. Depends on what the manufacturers implementation for external graphics is. Watch Linus' comparison between the Alienware and Razer solutions. EDIT: just seen this is about a PCI-e extension, not an eGPU solution. In which case, yes at 1x, there is going to be somewhat of a limit to performance. 
2. What's 1440p got to do with anything? 2k is 1080p.
3. @Track I don't really understand why you want an external solution. You don't mention a laptop at all in your post, so why not just plug your new graphics card straight into the PCI-e slot on the motherboard? There's no risk involved in any of these solutions, except you might void your warranty.

Hope this helps

The reason a home cinema is taking up space is because you need more board area to handle the power.

Hi-fi amplifiers aren't massive for no reason.

If you want decent quality and high power delivery, you need a big unit.

Those "board amps" will be highly unlikely to deliver over 50W (if they can even do 50W continuous).

Stick with the home cinema, or find a high quality, smaller amplifier.

Hope this helps

An adapter is like £3 ($5).

Save for one.

It's cheaper than making one, lol.

Bluetooth adapter should be fine.

Just make sure the volume on the device is turned up to max, then adjust the volume on the speakers themselves.

Bluetooth adapter should put out a line level signal, just like a mixer (unless it was a mixamp).

Hope this helps

13 hours ago, Dujith said:

Its rated 32-600 Ohms. So you will not need an AMP

Ohms is a measure of impedance, not "easiness to drive."

He may need an amp, he may not.

It will depend a lot more on the sensitivity of the headphones (dB/W).

You can get 32ohm headphones which are difficult to drive (low sensitivity, need an amp), and you can get 300ohm headphones which are easy to drive (high sensitivity, doesn't need an amp).

@Zangtetzu Test your headphones before you decide if you need an amp.

If they get loud enough without one, you don't need an amp.

If you want them to get louder, get an amp.

Impedance is a useful measurement for headphones in some instances, but not when deciding whether you need an amp.

Listening is almost always more valuable than anything on a datasheet.

Hope this helps

Shouldn't be an issue... not sure what @Blebekblebek means.
There should be plenty of bandwidth for your graphics card and your sound card.

You'll only be using 17 lanes (one 16x and one 1x).