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rhyseyness

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Everything posted by rhyseyness

  1. Sounds like a stick died... If it's all one stick, sounds like a component failed. Got any other RAM to test with? EDIT: Sorry just read properly. Sounds like there's some crap either building up in the slot or on the contacts. Have you tried giving both a clean with IPA? Sounds like something is causing a bit of a dodgy connection between the stick and the slot. Can't think of anything else hardware-y that would cause such a problem. Hope this helps
  2. I'm afraid not. As I say, I have an aftermarket radio with built in bluetooth. The reason I picked that over others is A: It has good reviews and B: It has volume control, which suggests to me that it's output is too loud for some systems (above line level). Saying this, it is possible that the aux input on your head unit just isn't at the same level as the other "channels" (radio/CD). If this is the case, and there's no adjustment available, then your initial idea of a small amp inbetween the dongle and head unit could be your best bet. What's your car/head unit model and the bluetooth dongle you're using? Could be a common problem with either. Have you been able to test with aux directly between source and head unit yet?
  3. Hope this helps: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bluetooth-Receiver-Portable-Microphone-Streaming/dp/B00Y29NXEA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1501757130&sr=8-5&keywords=bluetooth+adapter+car
  4. Yea I understand that. I'd recommend either a better bluetooth adapter or aux connection (as everyone else did )
  5. Sounds like your head unit is kinda bad tbh. Is it OEM? Have you considered changing it for an aftermarket one with bluetooth built in? That's what I did and haven't looked back since.
  6. Yes, full range driver as in one driver from 100Hz to 20KHz. It's all in the box design, much less the driver itself. Putting a full range driver in a box which is designed for a midrange-tweeter setup, is like putting an open baffle driver in an enclosure. Good box design+good full range driver=sound as good as a midrange+tweeter box... Don't get me wrong, it's a different sound, but by no means worse. I agree with a lot of what you say here. However, imo, this are only considerations to be taken into account at a much higher budget level than OP has. I doubt OP will notice the difference between a 3rd order Butterworth and 2nd order Linkwitz! (Whether I could or not is questionable tbh!) I don't think that at this budget range, the type of crossover is going to be make or break for sound quality. The construction and driver quality are going to be way bigger factors than how bad the crossover may be.
  7. That's really not true. Good full range drivers are good full range drivers. On the second front, not sure what speakers you've been looking at with a seperate mid-range and tweeter, which didn't have a crossover. "Has a crossover" is not something to look for in a speaker. If it's got seperate drivers and is half decent, obviously it will have a crossover. OP, Dackzy has already been tagged, but @spwath can also help you out with recommendations. In your price range you wanna go second hand hifi speakers. What sub do you have? This will give us an idea of what you consider "really nice."
  8. @spwath @Dackzy Any suggestions? (These guys will know far better than I do)
  9. Go second hand hifi speakers and an amp. You'll get a much better sound than what you'd get off the shelf from PC guys for that kinda money.
  10. Motherboards usually have a "line out." This is the output you should use. The "diagram" I did above is what you should do. I'll be shocked if the motherboard only has an amp'd analogue output. If it doesn't have a line out, then yes, cheap DAC to get analogue outputs from your PC, to mixer input. Then both PS4 and PC analogue outputs to mixer inputs and headphones connected to the mixer output. Hope this helps
  11. Stock cooler is awfuuuul. I ended up changing it on my second 290x.
  12. I did the same recently. Went from a 660ti to an R9 290x which I got for £200. Managed to get another one for £150 so crossfire 290x's for about £350. Keeps up with a 1070 no problem
  13. OP, I agree, this is supid. I'm not quite as outraged, but this definitely makes no sense. Even if everyone else seems to think it's ok, lol.
  14. What are you trying to do? Mix PC and PS4 audio to one output? That's what the mixer would be for. If you're doing this, you need to connect analogue outputs from both the PS4 and the PC to the inputs on the mixer, then the output of the mixer to your headphones. Mixer output to an amp is not advised, as the mixer has an amp built it. If you connected this to an amp, you'd be amplifying an already amplified signal. Not only could this damage your amp, but it's gonna be way too loud for your headphones. WITH THE EXCEPTION OF PRE-AMPING, YOU SHOULD NOT BE AMPLIFYING AUDIO SIGNALS MULTIPLE TIMES. Doing this will just introduce noise and also risk damaging equipment. Are you using the DAC for converting digital output from the PS4 to analogue? If the PS4 has no analogue output, this is the correct thing to do. The mixer is going to be the lowest quality part of the audio chain, so you're not likely to see a huge benefit from using such a good DAC. If you're doing this your audio chain will look somthing like this: PC analogue out (3.5mm/RCA)------------------------>mixer input |----->mixer output (already amplified)->headphones PS4 Digital out (optical/usb)->DAC (3.5mm/RCA)->mixer input If you're attempting to do something other than mix your PC and PS4 audio ouptuts, a mixer is not what you need.
  15. He's got the DAC and amp before the mixer, not after. DAC before the mixer makes sense, but amp, not so much. How do you know the mixer output is already at a suitable level? Although, @Tacanacy, you say you're using the headphone output from the PS4 and the PC... this is an analogue signal so the DAC is doing nothing. Just had a look at that mixer too. The output is already amp'd so you'd be double amping if you used your amp too (not sure where you got triple from @anothertom). Your DAC and amp really aren't any use with the mixer. Your final setup should be PC/PS4 headphone out->Mixer Inputs-Mixer Outputs->Headphones. This is assuming you're trying to mix PC and PS4 audio... not sure what else you'd be trying to do. The mixer is 2 in, 1 out, so not sure how you'd be connecting your PC and headphones to the inputs... If you're trying to record PS4 audio with your PC, and listen through headphones at the same time, a mixer is the wrong tool for the job, you need a splitter (way cheaper and easier, and you can still use your amp). Not a clue where you'd be putting the DAC in any of these setups though if you're using the headphone output from both devices.
  16. Yea, just makes it harder to understand what's going on. Looks like your headphones are the audio source PC and PS4 headphone out to the mixers inputs directly. Amplify the mixer output, not the mixer input. There is a risk you'll kill the mixer putting an amplified signal in. It would work, but your PS4 (amp'd) input would be waaaaaaaaay louder than your line level PC input. Kinda defeats the point of the mixer, as your PS4 could be at like 5% volume and still be louder than your PC at 100%. Mixers are not generally for amplified inputs. Usually, sound source -> mixer -> amplifier -> ouptut.
  17. Depends on the mixer. Your arrows seem to be the wrong way round to me. You should have the mixer before your amp, rather than after it. Mixer is a line level device, not designed to be used with amp'd inputs. Hope this helps
  18. Recently updated my setup to accomodate new speakers. Here she is:
  19. Oh there definitely will be. I just don't know where the appropriate power rail is. Most power rails on the board will only be "on" when the unit is powered up. It's just finding one of these rails with enough power to run the pump (not trying to pull too much current from it), and is "on" from power on to power down of the system.
  20. Have you ever built speakers? You made it sound way too easy
  21. Since your question has been answered (yes you need an amp, equaliser will be fine), I'm gonna go right ahead and talk about your speakers. Have you listened to them? I can't find a frequency response curve for them anywhere, which isnt' a great sign. Having never heard them, I'd bet 2 weeks wages you can get more for your money.
  22. rhyseyness

    RCA speakers

    Google "Toshiba speakers" and send us a photo of the one's you have. We'll try and find out what they are
  23. So have you looked into the motherboard waterblocks? The ones which cover the CPU, VRM etc. Having a look yesterday, they looked a lot "shorter" than actual CPU blocks. Maybe have a look into them? I'm not sure how they mount, but I'm sure you can figure something out
  24. Dude that looks sick!! I'll see if I can find you a waterblock. What's your budget and are there any other constraints? (fitting size, mounting, etc.)
  25. An amplifier simply makes whatever comes out of your motherboard louder. So if there's noise on your on board, there'll be noise with an amp. If it sounds ok, just not loud enough then an amp is what you need. If you've got more questions, let us know
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