rhyseyness

Why would you bring back a thread from APRIL?

I agree with @Benji_w The 12V should have about 10% tolerance, so 11.8V really isn't an issue, but from the other things you've described, it does sounds like the board or the PSU is dying. Can't remember if you said you tested with another PSU, but you should do that if you can/haven't already. No luck with that, then RMA your board. Hope this helps!

You'll be hard pushed to find any electronic components which only survive up to 42°C. Even cheaper components are normally fine up to 80°C. Also, your case being at 35° means nothing, because the internals of your PSU are likely a lot hotter. I'd be surprised if any power supply (unless it's being pushed right to it's ELECTRICAL limits) dies at 42°C.

That thing is GIANT!

Quotes from the article?

Unfortunately it sounds like you're going to have to learn to back up your "really important files" the hard way

If you're doing spreadsheets and video editing, then you'll definitely benefit from 1440p more than the increased frame rate. From what you've said, I'd 100% go with the 1440p. It's primarily for work, so go with the one better for productivity (1440p). I'm afraid I can't tell you how noticeable the difference between 120 and 75fps, as I've only ever played at 60, lol.

If it's for work, go with 1440p. The extra real estate will do you much better than the extra frames Your card probably won't be able to drive 144hz at the 1080p 21:9 resolution (depending what your playing) G-sync is supposed to be awesome If you're getting a 12:9 monitor, it's likely going to be a large one (27"+), so 1080p will likely look significantly worse than 1440p Hope this helps!

How do you have 14gb of RAM? I'd have thought 12 or 16... 14 would be very unusual

I gave up using Corsair link due to issues like this. I really don't think it's a good piece of software. It constantly (for me anyway) caused issues like this. I have had better results since uninstalling it and just leaving it to manage the fan speed itself. They run at a constant acceptable RPM without me touching anything (they are plugged into the H100i pump). Try uninstalling link and see if it fixes the issue. Then reinstall link and set it up how you want it, and see what happens. My guess is it's link causing the issues. Hope this helps

This EDIT: Saw your reply

Almost definitely that one. It'll be running at full speed all the time. Hope this helps

I lol'd. OT: I didn't think this was actually going to go anywhere but here you are with a prototype! Congratulations! The case looks good Keep up the good work and listening to your feedback and you'll go far. Good luck! I'm rooting for you, even thought I have no intention of buying a new case anytime soon EDIT: when you're happy with it, maybe ask nicely send Linus one for review

Good point. Agreed

Anything large and metal that's grounded Exposed (not painted or covered) pipes in your house are often good if radiators aren't an option.

What ColonelPanic said

Good plan. Anti-static strap is a good way to be sure

God I hope this was a joke, lol

As long as you're careful to discharge the caps when you take it apart, and don't have it plugged in when you're doing it, it should be fine. There's probably only 2 or 3 caps in the PSU that have a high enough voltage to actually cause harm. If it's not connected to a power source, caps are the only thing you need to worry about. IMO, you're making it sound waaaaaaay more dangerous than it actually is. I'm not recommending that he do it, or not to take care, but it can easily be done safely.

If you're going to take off the pins (that's what I would do), I'd desolder them. If desoldering isn't an option, then gently bend the pins back and forth until they snap. Doing it this way is less likely to damage things, as the pins will snap rather than being ripped out the board. Hope this helps

Ground yourself periodically when working on the PC. You can do this by touching a radiator (like in your house, not in the PC). It definitely sounds like a thermal issue. You'll need to replace your pads and paste before you can decide if the fan is broken. Thermal pads are often called gap pads. In the UK, you can buy thermal pads like these on Amazon. Hope this helps EDIT: IC Diamond or arctic silver will be fine. Both perform pretty much identically.

If you really want to you can turn the cooler 90 degrees so the fan doesn't interfere. However, it will work identically in slot 3. Hope this helps

That's ok. I appreciate the apology. OT: Input lag is not really affected by the time it takes to render a frame, i.e. frame rate. Your TV/monitor (with the exception of g-sync/freesync) will only refresh every X milliseconds. At 60hz, this is 16ms, no matter what your frame rate is. Thus, frame rate/time won't affect input lag, because your TV will still only refresh every X milliseconds. From this you can argue that if you have a higher frame rate, as long as it's below the refresh rate of the monitor, input lag could be decreased. (More frames displayed per second so less perceived input lag) This is where Emanuel's argument of higher frame rates (lower resolution) could decrease input lag. HOWEVER, this doesn't work for consoles, because the frame rate is normally locked regardless of the resolution. Input lag is the amount of time between your action and the display on the screen reacting accordingly. (As I'm sure you understand). With this in mind, input lag will mostly be affected by the TV/monitor you're using and the latency between your input device and your console/device. TFT central does a great job of describing this. You can read that here in the "lag" section. The actual article on input lag on that website is more to do with their measuring techniques. This means your correct in your "we're discussing lag not frame rate". However, what I'm arguing is that what Emanuel said is wrong, in that reducing resolution will reduce input lag on consoles. SO to conclude, rendering faster (decreasing the resolution or image quality) will not affect your input lag or response time on consoles or above the refresh rate of the monitor/TV. Whether 40-45ms is good enough depends on who you are and what games you play. Read the TFT article and see what you think. If you can, try the TV and judge for yourself whether you notice the input lag or not. It varies from game to game and person to person as to how much input lag is too much. I hope this makes sense and helps EDIT: Changed the link

Yes, I would expect that... Don't really understand what your point is though