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rhyseyness

Member
  • Content Count

    2,225
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About rhyseyness

  • Title
    My logic is undeniable
  • Birthday 1994-02-15

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Maidstone, UK
  • Occupation
    Electronic engineer

System

  • CPU
    i5 8600K
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte Z370-HD3
  • RAM
    DDR4- 16GB (2x8) Corsair Vengeance LPX
  • GPU
    MSI GTX1070Ti
  • Case
    CM690 II Advanced windowed
  • Storage
    1TB Samsung 970 Evo
  • PSU
    Corsair TX850
  • Display(s)
    Dell S2417DG and U2515H
  • Cooling
    Dark Rock Pro 3
  • Keyboard
    Coolermaster Masterkeys Pro L White
  • Mouse
    Logitech G300S
  • Sound
    Yamaha A-S501, Custom Seas Idunn, Sennhieser HD6XX
  • Operating System
    Windows 10

Recent Profile Visitors

2,058 profile views
  1. This thread is what makes this forum so great. Nice work @JayBee805! Enjoy your shiney new PC
  2. If this is a measurement out of circuit, looks like the resistor isn't dead. Dead resistors will read open circuit (>2Mohm). Massively unusual for them to fail and read anything other than short or open. As @Unimportant quite rightly says, you could be measuring something in parallel. This is not true. You'd definitely need to replace a 0 ohm resistor because it forms a connection in your circuit, just like a wire link. If a wire link snapped in half, you wouldn't say "you shouldn't need to replace it," haha.
  3. So after a few setbacks, it's finally done and mounted on the wall! I'm really pleased with how it's turned out. Had to change all my data wires over to something less stiff, but now they don't pull the pads off the strip. Video of the finished product mounted on the wall here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/1PmAuumD8c7UsFJf9 Some photos too:
  4. Put a good few hours into the project last night. Didn't have time to post an update here, but planning on having it finished this evening. Last night, I kind of restarted the LED part of the build, as when I tried to untangle the mess of LED strips, the data lines pulled their pads off the strip. I bought some new LEDs and the diffusers. Since the diffusers were a metre long, I made the LED strips for each band a metre long too. This means I've now got 420 LEDs (60 per band) rather than 300. The code will need a bit of adjustment to work with this. So, last night I cut the enclosure to fit the 3.5mm jack, power switch, power cord, LED wiring and USB input. I also sleeved all the LED wiring, and started mounting everything into the enclosure. All that's left to do is to mount the MSGEQ7 board in the enclosure, solder up all the LED strips, and mount them into the diffusers. I'll post a final update either tonight or tomorrow (hopefully with a video of it working!) Photos (in a random order):
  5. All fair comments. Cheap was the name of the game here. All your suggestions make a lot of sense. The purchasing decisions were based on what I already had laying around and how inexpensive stuff was. The 0.1uF caps were what I had around from an old project (they were used for decoupling power supplies on that). I don't have a spare wall wart adapter or barrel jack laying around, but I do have a spare mains plug and twin and earth cable, hence the straight 240V->5V PSU (which was also only £12). 15W should be plenty for the application. All my stuff was from Mouser or RS components (so a little more expensive than ebay) as I was burnt initially buying the MSGEQ7's off ebay, which all had at least one band not working. Soldering onto the regulator would have been a way better idea than hot glueing into the power headers. I might change that later, I'm hardly pulling any power through the Arduino so shouldn't have a problem at least. Stereo jack is going to be mounted on the enclosure, so did it with flying leads so I could choose where to put it on the box (who needs signal integrity anyway right?). Different colours for the data would have been handy for building, but since it's going to be mounted on my wall, and I don't think I'm going to be able to hide all the data lines, I used black to try and make them less obvious. The different type was sufficient to not get them confused! If I was building again from scratch, and money no object, I'd have definitely done the power supply in a more efficient way, and I'd probably design a proper PCB for the Atmega and MSGEQ, rather than just mounting the entire dev board in the box! Cheers for the feedback, it's very much appreciated. To be perfectly honest I didn't put nearly enough thought into the power delivery. I went for quick and easy rather than a good engineering solution (which probably would have been less expensive too)!
  6. So after a little fault finding and A LOT more soldering, the electronics are up and running. All that's left now is the getting it in a box and making everything neat and tidy. The LEDs are all soldered to the power supply, each other, and broken out into 7 strips. I've ordered diffusers because the strips are super delicate now they're not in the plastic. I've tested them and they're look great. It's super messy right now. Needs untangling real bad, then can start getting bits into the box
  7. Update from yesterday afternoon's work. Started putting the system together. I've soldered the MSGEQ7 board together, and wired this into the power supply and arduino. The power supply board has had the mains power soldered on. I'll let the photos do the talking Work still remaining: Machining of the box to allow connectors and switch to be mounted. Hole to get the LED wiring out too. Power supply connections to the arduino Fitting switch to the power supply input (I'l have to de-solder what I've done already to do this. I forgot it!) Cutting LED's down to strips of 43. Connecting dataline between arduino and LED strip. Connecting power supply to each band's LED stip. Gromits fitted to cable holes on the box. Sleeving of external cables. Mount PCBs in box. Photos: Putting these photos in I've noticed a fairly big problem with the audio input. 10 internet points to anyone who notices it! More updates to come later today hopefully
  8. Haha, thanks! The only delay should be the time for the main loop to run. I did experiment adding a delay on every main loop (see commented out delay of 50ms in "void loop"), but it just made the LEDs look weird with the audio. The only delays in there currently are the 40 microsecond ones requried for correct operation of the MSGEQ7. Everything else should be as fast as the arduino can do it! The delay of the MSGEQ7 is close to 0, but the loop certainly takes a little while to run. Initially I had the "for" loop in main go 1000 times between brightness setting, and that took about 10 seconds to update the LEDs. That suggests about 10ms per loop (input to output), and I think most of that is the FastLED library. I love the plexi glass idea- I'll have to look into the cost and how easy they'd be to wall mount without looking s***! I've got some diffusers sitting in my Amazon basket. Going to see how the LEDs look mounted bare on the wall before pulling the trigger (they're £35 for 10, which seems a little expensive to me!)
  9. I updated the code and hardware a bit today to include an ambient brightness adjustment. This uses a potential divider network with an LDR and a fixed resistor. It was a little bit jarring at first so I put some averaging in, which seems to have helped Now the LEDs brightness changes depending on the ambient brightness. Updated code below: My last few hardware bits (including a shiny new soldering iron) arrive tomorrow, so I can get on with the proper build. That's all for now. Next update is most likely to be Friday when I've got some free time after work.
  10. Yea, I've disputed it, so hopefully be back up in a couple of days. I'm going to see how it looks once it's mounted and decide if it needs any diffusion or not. Right now it is pretty eye watering, so most likely will add a diffuser!
  11. Welcome all to my graphic equaliser build log. A graphic equaliser is simply a graphic display of various frequency bands of audio. My plan is to build one from LEDs (specifically an LED strip), and mount it on my wall. I've actually done a fair bit of work on this so far, but I wanted to make sure i was going to actually finish the project before I posted about it. My plan is eventually to have this mounted on my wall. The basic operation is around the MSGEQ7 graphic equaliser chip and an Arduino Uno (Atmega 328p) microcontroller. The MSGEQ7 outputs an analogue voltage between 0 and 5V based on the amplitude of a given input within 1 of it's 7 frequency bands. The datasheet can be seen below for those of you who are interested: https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Components/General/MSGEQ7.pdf I can go into more detail on this if people are interested, but I won't waste my hypothetical breath on it if no one is! This output is connected to an analogue input on the Arduino, and read by the software. The Arduino then drives serial data to the WS2812S LED strip (using the FastLED library). The LED strip is RGB and 5m long (300 LEDs). I've split this into 7 frequency bands, so each 43 LEDs represents one frequency band. The idea is that each band lights up a number of LEDs based on the volume of the sound in that frequency band (i.e. a graphic equaliser). The software is the magic part of this project, so the code can be seen below, plus some photos. The next stage is to get the hardware soldered onto strip board, and cut up the LED strip into 7 parts. I'm hoping that the code doesn't need much change from this point as I am trash at software (I'm an electronics engineer) compared to hardware. I've put up a YouTube video of it in it's current state in operation (apologies for the trash quality. It was on my phone and YouTube compression, lol). https://youtu.be/rzZRBRx6bKg Any questions, fire away! I'll post updates as regularly as I do them Code: Photos:
  12. Haha! Higher SR =/= better. I know plenty of boosted master players who would be silver/gold if they solo queued!
  13. That's not too bad. It was over $1000 at launch! I reckon that's what I'd do. I play on both, but EU way more than US. I'm only high gold/low plat and a main tank/hitscan main.
  14. All makes good sense! If I was in your position, I'd be swapping to the X5690- that clock bump is huge! I think it will solve your problem... but mega expensive by the looks of it! I think I'd go hexacore, but it's up to you if you need the 12 cores or not. Best of luck my dude. Jealous of all your cores (from an 8600K user and fellow overwatch player! rhyseyness#2637)
  15. Yea, I know, completely agree with you. I moved to nVidia and vowed never to use crossfire again because of my experiences with it. I understand your thought process, and I'd be doing the exact same thing if I was in your position. Yea it sucks Not sure if there's a faster processor (for single core workloads) you can buy for that socket, that's still got the horsepower you need. I'm not up on the Xeon sku's I'm afraid so can't make a recommendation. I'd always recommend better single core for gaming, but I'm guessing beacuse you have a xeon system with 12 cores, you do a lot more than just game! I'm afraid as it stands, doesn't look like there's a cheap solution to your problem, without using your other system
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