Lennart van de Merwe

Yes, but this: I'm sure it'll be fine and probably have a 5 ms response time in the worst case (I highly doubt it having a 14 ms response time), but still. It would feel like quite the gamble. I'll just keep on looking for now.

Oof, right.

First one is a really good suggestion, now for the second one, my bullshitradar is poppin' of. So, I found the second one on a dutch site, where it was listed a bit cheaper, but it claimed to have a 14 ms response time (Hmmmmmmmmmmm). Now I found this amazon page and it claims it has a 1 ms response time (HMMMMMMMM), so, of course I went to a dutch techspec site (usually reliable) and that claimed the same monitor had a response time OF 5 MS (HMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM). So, just to be safe, I ain't buying it. I also found something myself that might be good: https://www.coolblue.nl/product/833774/lg-29wl500.html The fact that it's 29 inch doesn't really matter for me since I don't need the extra screen real estate, because I have another 22 inch and 23 inch monitor that can make up for the lost screen real estate when scaling down from 34 inch to 29 inch. I do get HDR10 with this 29 inch monitor AND it's 100 euros cheaper, also it has fast delivery and it's a reliable dutch webshop. So, I'll probably end up buying this one.

hi, I'm looking for a -preferably- 2560x1080m, G-sync monitor at a reasonable price. The other features are less important to me. I'm looking to buy new, and I have a max budget of 350 euros, but if you can't find anything for that price you can also submit something priced higher. I couldn't really find anything yet, mostly because google think freesync and g-sync are the exact same thing and so it's almost impossible to find a g-sync monitor in the first place. Thanks in advance.

I had my own system with an i7-2600 and GTX 970, but I used to be able to get mid to high settings at 60 fps average in GTA. Hell, even my laptop with an i7-6700HQ and gtx 960m could get 60 fps average at low settings. What I'm gonna suggest is taking a look at the settings and making sure anti-aliasing isn't like turned up to 16x or something. That hurts performance a lot.

I agree with the turtle man.

Unless this is a woosh, which Ima assume, no. I'm still responding because if you aren't joking, for the love of god please don't ruin your 40.- bucks on that thing.

Figured that myself and it turned out that, presumably, my sata was either dusty -?- or had died. It's working now, but it still has a few red blocks. So, I'm back upping rn and I'm gonna buy a new HDD/massive SSD Edit: forgot to say thank you, so, hereby officially, thank you.

I've downloaded it and get a read error as soon as I press start. It has stopped being used 100% in task manager. In file explorer it is now accessible, but it shows no files, but it does claim to have around 700 gb of data stored on it. I've tried to launch Rainbow Six Siege (which is still installed if I am to believe steam) and it crashed after loading the things that were stored on my C drive. Edit: here's a picture of the error scan.

Hi, I was playing Rainbow six siege when I just got stuck in the loading screen for multiple minutes, which is odd, considering my setup: ryzen 5 2600x, rtx 2060, 16 gb 3000 mhz corsair vengeance ram, 64 gb SSD boot drive, secondary 128 gb SSD, 1.5 TB HDD seagate 9VT16L-515. I went into task manager and closed the game, then I tried to reboot it and steam gave me an error and then crashed. I then tried to reboot steam (I think it's on the HDD as well) with no succes. I then tried to open Uplay, which did actually did open and then tried to reboot Six Siege. I clicked on the play button several times over the course of a few minutes with no response. I then opened Task Manager to find my D drive being 100% used by nothing and not transferring any data. Also, when I opened file explorer and clicked on my D drive it crashed the file explorer. So, I went for a reboot. That took several minutes to close down, but did start up again quite fast and I still have the same problem. I suspect mechanical failure of my D drive, what do you guys think. TL;DR: My mechanical D drive isn't responding for no particular reason, is crashing application when trying to acces files on it and is stuck at 100% use in task manager without any reads or writes. I suspect mechanical failure, what do you guys think? Edit: there aren't any funny noises coming from the drive btw

Hello y'all, I saw a video on Youtube showcasing how you can create a DIY monitor from a scavenged laptop monitor and a control board (you buy one programmed specifically for your monitor). The idea is that the control board will convert your for example HDMI cable's signals into signals that the monitor can translate into pixels creating the wanted image, I know that most of you already knew this. I bought the right control board for my monitor, hooked it up as I'm supposed to, but when I hook the HDMI cable up to my system (ryzen 2600x, rtx 2060, 16 gb 3000 Mhz corsair vengeance, B450 aorus elite) it shows only a very distorted and... interesting version of my desktop (see pictures). I have checked with the OG laptop the screen is from and hooked it up with that normally and it was just fine. I've also tried the HDMI cable on my other monitors and it works just fine. What can I do?

I've looked up some other designs, like the EVGA and MSI 750tis and the general rule is: 2 fans = 1x 6 pin. 1 fan = 0 6 pins. (What actually is kind of funny, is that one 2 fan model used the same amount of power as a single fan one, but still required a 6 pin)

I don't have one. but here's a picture of the reference design. This gpu will get all the juice it needs from the mobo.

750TIs don't even have a place for a 6 pin to plug in to. So the whole idea is that it will actually post without the power connector.

X

Here:

Well the whole problem is that it isn't showing up there

It's not ideal, but it'll work. You won't need the 6 pin connector.

So I've recently bought a samsung 128 gb SSD. I installed it today, but it didn't show up in windows (not even in drive manager). So I went on to check in the BIOS and there it showed up fine and everything looked fine. What could be the problem here? Already thanks in advance.

Recently the receiver of my home cinema set died on me and is beyond repair. So that leaves me with the speakers, they still work perfectly fine and I'm happy with the sound that they produce. The home cinema set in question is the Philips HTS 7200 and for your convience here are the speaker specs summed up: It's a 2.1 system so firstly the subwoofer: 200W (@3 ohms of impendance) and it works passively. Speakers: 2x 120 W (@ 4 ohms of impendance) I now want to buy a new receiver so that I can still use the speakers. This leads me to the following: So I've been looking into some receivers and I've been blown away by the amounts of options and shitty advertising there is. Because the subwoofer is passive and the only receivers that actually support that T H I C C boii are way to expensive I've decided to just store the subwoofer away somewhere until I have the money and/or time to do something with it. Either way I found the Sabaj A3 to be a good possible solution. It has the features I need, I know the brand I've been happy with their products so far, decent price, 4 ohms of impendance and some other nice features like bluetooth connectivity with your phone. One problem though, it supports only up to 80 watts of RMS (@4 ohm) per speaker, while the speakers I'll be using are 120 watts (@4 ohm). I've read a few articles on this problem and other people claim it won't be much of a problem. So I'd like to know you guys' opinion on this. Already thanks in advance.

You should still easily be able to get 144 hz at 1440p. It does depend on what game you'll be playing, but you should be fine. I personally also first only used one monitor and then bought a second one and I didn't see a performance drop. (My rig: i7 2600; 16 gb ddr 3 @1333Mhz ; Nvidia geforce gtx 970 4 gb)

So I've been looking into some receivers and I've been blown away by the amounts of options and shitty advertising there is. Because the subwoofer is passive and the only receivers that actually support that T H I C C boii are way to expensive I've decided to just store the subwoofer away somewhere until I have the money and/or time to do something with it. Either way I found the Sabaj A3 to be a good possible solution. It has the features I need, I know the brand I've been happy with their products so far, decent price, 4 ohms of impendance and some other nice features like bluetooth connectivity with your phone. One problem though, it supports only up to 80 watts of RMS (@4 ohm) per speaker, while the speakers I'll be using are 120 watts (@4 ohm). I've read a few articles on this problem and other people claim it won't be much of a problem, so I'd like to get a second opinion. Already thanks in advance.

So I have this HTS7200 home cinema setup and after troubleshooting the receiver last night together with help from other guys on the forum, I have officially declared it dead. So now I am left with a functioning subwoofer and two functioning speakers that still produce very nice audio. I'd like to not have to throw them into the trash can if possible. I've looked on second hand sites to buy the same receiver, but working this time and I've had no succes so far. So, is it possible to hook up speakers to a different receiver if that receiver has the same specs? The specifications of the two speakers are: 120 watts each 4 ohm of impendance -each- Subwoofer specs: 200 watts 3 ohm of impendance Also, it's a passive subwoofer. Receiver specs (the important ones at least): Class 'D' digital receiver It has support for: Dolby True HD Dolby Digital Dolby Virtual speaker Stereo Dolby Prologic II DTS The only thing I'd want from the new receiver is to support optical audio since that is important for me. If you need any other specs just ask me and I'll send them.

Would there be anyway to hook these still working speakers that I got from the home cinema set up to a different receiver? They do have heads that only fit in this receiver, but you could remove those easily. The only thing then is getting a receiver that is able to handle the same spec of speakers and subwoofer.

It's hard to get a reading because the receiving end of the cable is simply stuck into the motherboard, there isn't a connector to remove and sticking it in the top is only getting me a read out on the outer plastic layer, which of course is useless.