Tabs

No; it's a core part of the kernel designed to be simple and therefore will "always work". The added niceness on windows 8+ is due to their embracing of UEFI which adds niceness without added complexity from the kernel side of things. This is similar to how Apple has been able to display cute/informative crash menus for about 10 years (they use the original EFI spec for their systems). Even if you modified the binaries, it would result in programs failing and possibly Windows itself even failing to load due the binary failing an integrity check.

Cat 5e can reach 1gbit over 50 meters; cat6 can reach 1gbit over 150m+. Cat5 is limited to 100mbit over any length. If you're using networking equipment capable of 1gbps and your connection is running at 1gbps, then it's at least a cat 5e cable. If you're running hardware that should utilise 2.5gb, 5gb, or 10gbe, then you'll have a lot of issues with anything less than a cat6 certified cable. For your internet speed question: If your internet speed is more than 100mbps, then the difference between cat5 and cat5e+ will be important.

I have a super basic TP-Link switch too, it's been 100% reliable except for once where it locked up during a very very short power outage, which is completely fair in my opinion. Let me know when you get that info, I may not be monitoring this thread but feel free to PM me and I'll get a notification. Hopefully it wont take much work to get this sorted, redoing the wiring so everything except internet traffic is routed through the switch could be a good idea. If you get the chance, make sure that any kind of ingress/egress prioritisation, traffic shaping or QoS settings on your router are disabled; same with jumbo frames. Many ISP provided routers don't handle that kind of stuff well.

Okay, my first suggestion then is to ensure that your links are all running at gigabit speeds. This is unlikely to be the issue, but it's possibly the easiest thing to check first before messing with drivers and settings. On your desktop, go to network and sharing centre, select "change adapter settings" at the left hand side, and then double click on your I219-V adapter. Make sure that the connection speed is listed as 1.0 Gbps. Once you've confirmed that it's running at gigabit speeds, swap the network cables around between your TV and your PC and check again that the link speed is still 1 Gbps. Could you let me know what model of router you're using? The topographic you posted implies that your TV is connected directly to the router, the router to the switch, and your PC to the switch. If this is the case, is is possible to connect both the TV and PC to the switch to rule out some kind of transit issue involving the router? QoS could be at play.

Okay, can you confirm exactly which network adapter your board uses? I have the gigabyte Z170-XP SLI board and I know it has Intel I219-V, the Gigabyte support site for your board doesn't list the exact model of network adapter on yours other than stating that it's Intel. If this is the case, it may be a simple driver issue, or it could be some of the advanced configuration settings need to be modified. Either way, it should be easily remedied. Also: How long does it take for this problem to start once you begin streaming? Is it immediate or does it take a while? If it's immediate, I might get you to run a few diagnostic checks when it's erroring out to see if we can narrow down the problem.

Does this affect all devices on your network or just your own pc? Are Plex or your video files hosted on your PC or another device on your network?

Does the panel run at anything higher than 30fps when running at 4k native? The panel may simply only support 30fps on resolutions above 1080p. 30fps is considered normal for 4k TVs since televised content is rarely more than that.

It's worth remembering that 1080p on a 4k panel actually IS pixel perfect; one rendered pixel perfectly scales to 4 physical pixels on the 4k panel with no blending.

Most TV's have scaling options set to overscan images to remove black borders around broadcast content. Check your tv settings; if you can change the input type to "pc" or "digital" it should automatically scale correctly. Alternatively it may have an actual image display option. It varies by TV, but this is what I've experienced with various Sony, Samsung and LG models.

It sounds like you may have a misbehaving explorer shell extension. Two utilities you can use to manage them are Autoruns from Microsoft Sysinternals, or ShellExView from Nirsoft. Autoruns does a lot more than just manage shell extensions, so be careful if you use it.

Do you have the nas credentials stored in Credentials Manager using the same URI scheme as the mapping? For example, if you map it using the form \\NAS\*share*, make sure there's a credential stored for the URI \\NAS\. If you map it using IP address, make sure there's a credential stored for the URI \\ip address\. That should work for your account across login/logoff and reboots. It may require being set manually for each account on your machine though.

There aren't any moving parts in a regular Sata SSD; it's just a different size/shape and is hooked up using standard SATA cables instead of being directly plugged into the motherboard like a memory module or GPU would. Are you thinking about "solid state hard drives", which are just hard disks with a small solid state cache? Those I would stay away from, since they don't offer any real performance improvement compared to a standard hard drive, but it has more potential modes of failure. If the cache fails in one of those, but the disk part itself is fine, you still risk losing all your data.

As others have said, the longevity in terms of bytes written should be almost identical between the two, if they have the same type/capacity of NAND onboard. It's worth remembering however that sata interface drives are limited by the interface at about 600MB/s maximum, but m.2 can reach (and sometimes exceed) 3GB/s. Even though they may be able to handle the same amount of total writes, you may find that the m.2 drive has a lower lifespan simply because you can write a lot more data to it faster. For the same amount of writes over the same timeframe, you should notice no difference between the two. Check the manufacturers write endurance to be able to compare different drives.

If your power plan is set to "High Performance", your cpu will be at its full turbo frequency all the time. Set the power plan to balanced (or manually change the power/frequency settings for the High Performance plan) and you'll be able to get your cpu back to idling properly. If you're on Balanced/low power plan and it still isn't doing it, check you have speed boost and/or speed shift enabled in your motherboard bios.

For me, it depends a lot on the game. Most games I play nowadays are pretty much play once and done, but games like Skyrim and Fallout 4 I definitely do a lot of tweaking. It helps that those games have a big modding community and the developers have open support for the platform. Some other games too like the Witcher 3, i'll use utilities like enbseries (reshade).

Is your Windows 10 usb media built from a current release? 1809 has just launched, and since that SSD is extremely new, it might be worth trying to fresh install from 1809 instead of an older version if you are. Make sure your system is set as GPT only (UEFI, with CSM DISABLED). CSM being enabled prevents nvme drives from being bootable. This is sometimes called legacy support or compatibility mode, but check your motherboard manual to be sure.

As others have stated, DNS only impacts how long it takes your computer to find the address of a site that isn't already known. Once it's found, your DNS configuration has zero impact on the actual transfer rate of the site. We have 350/20 with virgin media and outside of speed tests and CDN/multihomed downloads like Steam, it's rare that we get that all the time. The line is definitely capable, but it's rare that every part of the link between our home and the site we're accessing is set up to transfer data at those kinds of speeds. As for our home setup, we have a dnscrypt proxy set up to encrypt all DNS queries, with cloudflare (DNS over HTTPS, DoH) as our primary resolver. If Cloudflare fails to resolve for any reason, we fall back to a short list of other resolvers, but it's very rare that this happens.

Google has redesigned it to more closely match all of their other "material design 2.0" products, like gmail and gsuite. Unfortunately it means it's super jarring on every platform that isn't google owned, including windows and mac desktop and ios devices. Lots of folk complained during the alpha and beta stages (the mac version ignores Dark Mode in osx Mojave for example, and is super bright by default). It's a usability downgrade.

You mean you tried to uninstall chrome? Unless you used the wrong pic for upload, I'm not sure what your post is about. You can theme Chrome if you use it and don't like the default style.

The liquid metal is only there to help reduce gaps from any microscopic imperfections between the underside of the his and the top surface of the die, you have probably used at least 75% too much liquid metal in your application. It isn't supposed to pool like that, it's supposed to be a thin sheen. The excess could potentially leak out (any excess is already squashed out from the top of the die and the his from the mounting) and may leak out and damage something on the substrate or below your cpu, but this is highly dependant on your mounting configuration (vertical vs horizontal). In any case, I'd recommend cleaning off some of the liquid metal to reduce the risk of issues. It will not reduce the effect of your delid to remove the excess.

It sounds like you installed Windows onto the SSD while the hard drive was still connected as the primary boot device. Is that correct? If that's the case, the reason your machine isn't booting is that your actual boot loader is located on your hard drive (the BCD store), but your Windows install is on the SSD. You can try to repair your installation by booting from your Windows install media and trying to do a repair, but I've heard that this doesn't always work anymore. Recreating/replacing a completely missing BCD is harder than repairing a corrupted one. The only guaranteed solution I know of is to reinstall Windows on the drive when it's the only drive installed on the system (or the drive is the primary boot device at the time). That'll ensure that the boot and system partitions are both created on the SSD and it'll operate fine by itself. Right now your machine is relying on the boot loader located on the hard drive to boot the windows install on the SSD.

I can give you generic instructions, but I have never used that specific device - so I can't give you anything specific. You need to go to your router ip address in your web browser, which is normally http://192.168.0.1/ or http://192.168.100.1/. If those fail, you can find your router address by opening a command prompt (type "cmd" into start) and running "ipconfig". It'll give you a screen like the one below. Once you have that, you'll want to go to the ip address listed as "default gateway". In my above screenshot that's 192.168.0.1, but yours will be different if the above links don't work. Once you get there you have to log on with your router username and password - the defaults are printed on the sticker underneath it, but if they've been changed you'll have to ask whoever administers your network. Once logged on, have a hunt around for any kind of settings listed as "quality of service", "QoS" or "network prioritisation".

600ms+ on all games is definitely not normal. Check that no other devices on your network - including yours - are sending any data to the internet, and if there's nothing, you may want to check your router settings. If you have any QoS settings enabled, try disabling them and see if your performance improves.

Are you connecting to servers that are in your local region? Does your internet provider de-prioritise gaming traffic?

What upload speed is your connection actually supposed to provide? In order to be able to download at 18mbit, you need to have at least ~384kbps upload speed. That's the minimum upload speed to be able to sustain that download speed level of acknowledgements. What performance do you get if you run a speed test like https://fast.com/ and https://speedtest.net/