MrDevanWright

@KirasNote, I couldn't find a fix, ended up uninstalling Chrome then reinstalling it. I reset my computer quite often since I have everything cloud-sync'd. So, I can't remember if I had to reinstall Windows to fix this issue or not.

EaseUS seems to have a program to do anything you need. What are your opinions on their software and the company?

Are peltier or thermoelectric coolers like this or this actually effective? Are there any better solutions to lower temperatures without using liquid metal?

I'm building my wife a computer for her desk and the AKLLA A5 Black Mini ITX Computer Case seems to be the best for what she wants: Small and ascetically pleasing that doesn't look like a computer. In the end if I can't find it, we'll go with the NZXT H1 V1 with an upgraded riser or a Louqe Raw S1, but I really like that the AKLLA can have I/O out the top.

I don't recall changing any Windows or Google settings but now I am being forced to insert my security key when trying to autofill credit card data in Chrome even though I don't have a security key and have never set one up before. I have 2FA enabled on my Google account with prompts and SMS, but no security keys. I have 'For improved security, only allow Windows Hello sign-in for Microsoft accounts on this device' disabled, as it was enabled but the Windows security prompt still comes up. This is so frustrating because Chrome will not autofill my credit card information without Windows approving it. Why is Windows even a part of this? Absurd. It started a while ago asking for my log on PIN, then it was asking for a security key but allowed me to change it to PIN, and now it's security key only. Chrome 110.0.5481.178 Windows 11 Pro 22H2, 22621.1265

Starting off, I don't know much about overclocking or tuning. After running 3DMark's Port Royal benchmark, I'm only getting 8500 which seems really low compared to an average of 11420 and high of 12769 (personal, global). I've been messing around with MSI Afterburner (my settings) but it's really getting me no where. I'm on VBIOS F21, enabled Resizable Bar, have fully updated drivers through GeForce Experience, and running 3 separate 8-Pins from my 1300w PSU. Does anyway have any suggestions to at least get to an average Port Royal score? Specs: AMD Ryzen 2600X, ASUS ROG Strix B450-F, Corsair DDR4 32GB, AORUS GeForce RTX 3080 XTREME 10G, NZXT H510 (Open Air), Samsung 970 EVO Plus SSD 2TB NVMe M.2, EVGA SUPERNOVA 1300W G2

As said, what are the best or your favorite troubleshooting and stress testing applications? eg: GPU-Z, Ventoy, Hiren, Falcon, etc. Bonus points for an explanation of the program, use case, and why you're sharing it.

Is this possible? I have a spreadsheet to track username availability. PlayStation recently changed the way profiles are displayed online, so I want to start using PSNID.World. I don't want to have to copy-paste all the different usernames, so I want to create a hyperlink that will auto add text to the automatically selected text field when you go to PSNID.World. It'd also be nice if it also then hit Enter but I'd assume that's not feasible. Any ideas?

No, I'm aware of SmartDeploy. I thought it started with an A, and I'm pretty sure Linus himself did the spot. I've been trying to look back at old content, but I can't find it.

In a recent video, they had a remote support sponsor that wasn't Pulseway, SmartDeploy, TeamViewer, or anything they had before. It was a new remote program. What was it?

Compared to running the GTX 780 at Gen3 and full x16, what expected performance loss would I have running it at Gen2 with only x4? B450-F Gaming, Ryzen 5 2600X, DDR4 16GB 3Ghz.

Someone local assumes the new chipset just isn't putting as much power to these ports as the older rigs chipset. Regardless, I don't think I'll ever get a real answer. Thank you @Kilrah for offering causes and change solutions. This thread can be closed.

If both top ports were merged into one cable, that plugged into the only USB 3.0 header internally, would it be possible for them to be on different root controllers?

Listing says 2.0. I doubt I'm getting HD, but I don't care. But it did handle both just fine on the previous build. Separate controllers may resolve an issue, but not mine. I'm trying to figure out why they won't work in these two ports, as it did previously.

I have 2 cheap capture cards that are confirmed working independently in the new rig and worked together in the old rig. In the old rig I had both dongles plugged into the top ports, connected to the motherboards internal USB3.0 port. Both cameras showed in OBS Studio flawlessly, displaying at the same time with no issues. Now, I have both dongles plugged into the tops ports again, connected to the motherboards internal USB3.1 port. Both the case and the mobo port are classified as USB3.1. However, the cameras will not display at the same time. If I activate one camera then the other, the second camera will not display a photo. If I deactivate the first then activate the second, it appears perfectly. I cannot get them to both work at the same time. If one camera is active anywhere the other won't display. It seems to me the USB pipeline just isn't able to handle both USB2.0 devices at the same time. But then why would it work flawlessly in my older USB3.0 rig? Old Rig - HP Envy H8-1534, M3970AM-HP, FX-8350, DDR3, USB3.0, KeeQii Capture Card New Rig - NZXT H500, B450-F Gaming (Latest BIOS 4402 x64), Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6Ghz, DDR4 2133Mhz 16Gb Dual Channel, USB3.1, KeeQii Capture Card Troubleshooting - Independently installed/uninstalled dongles, verified both working in Windows camera app and OBS. Downgraded OBS Studio, in case it was a new version issue and it isn't. Attempted showing one in the Windows camera app and one in OBS, to the same result. Disabled Legacy USB Support, same results. Disabled XHCI Hand-Off, same results. Enabled/Disabled CSM, same results. Tested on Windows 10 and Window 11, same result.