SkilledRebuilds

Wiggle the Display Cable/s,....

When he plugs the display cables in, turn the PC on, get to windows..(Driver loaded)., give the cable a wiggle, see if it creates the artifact.

If so,... Replace his display cables.

I've seen this with a cable that I thought was A-OK but wasn't, stressed about it, but prior to replacing anything, I test cables and what do ya know, a little wiggle instigated the artifacting off and on with certain wiggles. (Could be the port or the cable) but just make the user aware of such things.

Lazy personalities would just leave it and re-wiggle every now n then.. but replacing it would be advised.

9 minutes ago, lizziemc12 said:

I currently have a RTX 2060 with 6 GB of VRAM and I was wondering if this is a good amount of VRAM for current high end games or if it is not enough these days in 2024. Also if I run out of VRAM will it just stop working or will it pull from my ordinary RAM in my computer. I don't play games on ultra settings or anything crazy like that but it seems like it is getting to the high end of utilisation when on medium to some high settings. 

You can use lower resolutions (NOT DLSS based, actual reductions to native res) to aid in lasting longer with VRAM concerns.

DLSS still has to input/output TO THE output res (DLSS Targets) so it doesn't always save the amount VRAM that you'd expect it to.

Where reducing native resolution does typically. It also depends game to game, techonlogy to technology..

You can activate NIS (Nvidia Image Scaling) in the driver (forcing say... 600p/720p/900p native render) it will render natively at the lower resolutions and output' at your monitor panel, but different to DLSS methods and has a much better chance of using less VRAM in its operation.

18 minutes ago, Tamgam12 said:

That's why I'm here. Cleared the cmos a fifth time and it's back up. I'm going to leave the xmp on and call it a day for awhile. I appreciate your help.

Cool, you said it's a fresh build, and now you are up and running get used to how it is now,create mental snapshots of how it should be... even do some tests/grab results from your baseline stock performance so you can tell if it gets better or worse when you start your overclock.

Happy gaming!

17 minutes ago, Tamgam12 said:

It is a fresh build. Updated everything bios, windows ect. Was running great. Turned on xmp, still ran great. Tightened the timings a couple points. No post. Cleared the cmos and still no post. Any ideas? My first build.

5600x

32g 3600mhz cl18 team group 

Gigabyte b550m k

Rx 6800

It aint no magic bullet with limited experience.. one thing at a time, stress test it properly (Various Apps taking hours dont be in a rush for a RAM OC), rinse and repeat. or why bother at all if you don't do it properly. Unless you can't detect microstuttering or like crashes/ill performance (can be worse than stock)

Just by saying you did multiple timings at the same time shows inexperience and shortcutting a RAM OC is 200% going to be a bad time and you won't have ANY recovery effort because you skipped the right method by accelerating a bad process, leading you to start over again...and again..and again.

Wasted time in bios with MEM OC shortcuts all for what..not being mean I'm just concerned you'll follow what I did years ago..

Again, don't read this^ as if I'm being mean... I'm trying to SAVE YOU the TIME wasted on doing it wrong, that's all.

I went down this road myself, thought I knew stuff, RAM OC will prove you wrong when you don't do it right.

My AMD Gpu will record gameplay using AMD Relive ONLY at 30FPS in H264 mode, if I choose H265 it'll do 60fps everytime, but set back to H264 it WILL NOT capture 60FPS even though the option is enabled...(H264 faster/less demand to edit than H265) and half rate vsync cannot be located in the drivers which is bad for lower end GPU's (VRR solves this typically however until you hit 48Hz in high detail low fps games or CPU limited games) but you can't SET 1/2 Rate Vsync yourself...but its crazy that 2006--2024 no Half Rate Vsync has been in their drivers and FPS caps don't count as it's not the same output/effect I want for smoothness (Synced with proper framepacing, not just a cap)

I don't know for sure if the Relive bug is just me or not... but worth putting it out there because it's still an issue today for me.

Beyond those two gripes with the drivers, the AMD setup don't give me much annoyance at all, and the GUI is nice even though I rarely use it that much..
 

3 hours ago, Hellowpplz said:

I would hope it's not elephants otherwise im not sure how much they can do there

You can probably get a decent computer if you have 600 Elephants to trade.

20 hours ago, mrtwonavels said:

I have an intel core i5-12600k and wanted to give my cpu a little boost. Should I keep it going with a 12th gen and upgrade to a i7 or maybe go up a generation

What can't it do now that you want it to?

A CPU/RAM combo can drive a certain number of FPS in varied game engines, and you usually use GPU bound settings..

So again I ask, What can't it do now that you want it to..?

You don't even need all that CPU to properly feed a RTX4070 (and broken PC ports are broken on every CPU for the most part), the RTX4070.. it's basically a RTX3080 with framegen right?

i7 13700/K based CPU is ample vs the 13900K you want but don't need.

2 minutes ago, Andy8154 said:

Sadly there are no error codes. The clone itself goes without issue. The issue is when attempting to boot to the cloned SSD, the computer will not detect it, or will refuse to boot to it

https://download.cnet.com/minitool-partition-wizard-free-edition/3000-2094_4-10962200.html
I've used this so many times and never have had a failed result.

I use the COPY wizard, it makes a 1:1 copy inc Windows boot manager

Then I just change the boot order in the bios to the other drive, and discard/format the old drive.

As windows has files in use typically... it reboots if you are copying a currently in use c:\,...on the reboot it does the 1:1 copy in the pre-windows boot environment, then restarts after it's done leaving you with the two drives (mirrored) and that's when I change the boot order in the bios/uefi.

I've never had it not work, and it's pretty easy to follow.

5000/4700=1.06% and the voltages to get it so,..make it warmer.

Windows will shift workloads around the cores typically as well,.. I'd just be happy with 4.7Ghz to be honest and the cooler/quieter operation at less voltages.

1 hour ago, aren332 said:

currently got a 4590 @3.884ghz all core and cache (105 bclk) and ram at 2100mhz. If i set bclk to like 106, i cant even boot into to bios. Ive tried setting ram speed much lower than 2100 mhz (with 106 bclk), tried raising system agent and io voltages. Should i raise pch voltage too? what should I do to get 106 bclk stable? also cooling aint a problem for the cpu, an intel stock cooler handles 3.9ghz all core, and i have a 280mm aio lying around which i used on my 4790k before

Have you considered your at the limit of the board...  I managed 106.95 BCLK on the z97-K from Asus,...a 4690 nonK but within 6 months the USB ports went to pot and stopped working. While overall stability on the CPU side didn't get worse, even still, there IS A LIMIT to what you can achieve.

I doubt you wanna buy a new board just to get 106/107, it's pretty cool where you are and that you got where you did.

I should have backed off to 106.something....possibly even 105... 106.95 was my limit, 106.95+ wouldn't boot without errors.

You could just buy a couple extras off ebay or whatever and bin them yourself, as opposed to dealing with your 4590 you have now.

If you don't want to buy anything, I'd now work on squeezing RAM OC/Timings down if you can't get more speed/bandwidth out of it.

Target your Monitor Refresh Rate as an FPS Target...

You'll find both are likely sufficient for most peoples needs,... IMO.

1 hour ago, KodiaKro said:

I am thinking of upgrading my CPU and I am a bit torn between these 2. 

I am interested only in gaming performance. For any non-gaming activities I do, my current 10700KF is plenty good, so any of these 2 would be more then enough. 

 

 

Some games will REQUIRE specific instruction sets before they even open...
4th Gen Haswell AVX2 included can run games the 2nd Gen can't even open... (regardless of CPU strength)

IMO I'd not pair anything much faster than (Relative GPU's of similar output) GTX1070/RTX3050/GTX1660 series with them..

You'll still find shitty broken games that people can use as examples...

It's not that serious.

Solid CPU for 60-120hz Gaming, Solid GPU for High/Ultra details

Pick your balance to your preferences... FPS or Visuals.
But both are strong in their respective fields.

I wouldn't worry whatsoever, you'll be choosing GPU bound settings 99% of the time unless your a CODBro with Minimum details.

2 minutes ago, Mariah22321232 said:

Thanks

so right now there is no point to upgrade to for example 14700k if i'm playing at 60 fps only ?

i also have 32GB ram and Spphire RX 6700XT

It's not like the 10700K can't provide the SIMPLE 60FPS you are after.

Many of the Games don't use all cores, so core strength matters (IPC/Latency) while newer generations will uplift performance of the MAXFPS/AVG/MIN, it's not even an issue because the term "Whats the GOAL" is important... the goal being 60FPS and the CPU isn't even phased providing 60FPS in almost all games but the problematic broken ones, so you are good to go keep using the 10700K (in my opinion)
I'm on a 10850K (10c20T minus -100Mhz from 10900K) and it's overkill for me too...

Most generations back can do 60FPS gaming, it's not actually a heavy task really...

Many game engines can scale to 60fps given the most modest CPU horsepower.

Go look at 10700K reviews at 1080p Ultra (GamersNexus has HEAPS of comparative data) with a FAST GPU, FPS scales up pretty well...

13 minutes ago, Mariah22321232 said:

Is this CPU still good and fast ?

On NEWER reviews (12600/12700/13700) you can see even if they don't show 10700K they usually have 10600K/10900K values stated which is helpful in a sense.

Keep in mind you only stated about a MINFPS of 60FPS or better then it's clear to me it's actually overkill.

1 hour ago, geoffery said:

thank you i did not know that the the gtx 1650 could run 1440p!!

Yeah its just being aware of what settings are on offer and what they can do for you... Im glad you watched the video and got the value information from it.

Its competitive FPS game so like me and many others, reducing details down for Higher fps iE a performance mode (Fortnite LiteGfx) is ideal for visibility and FPS.

At least in these shooter games.

Fortnite offering the performance mode saves you doing the research/testing yourself

5 hours ago, geoffery said:

Also maybe anywhere from 100 fps up

Would you be using Fortnite performance mode (LITE EZ FPS LOW DETAIL MODE?)

You could max out a 120Hz+ Monitor with ease in Fortnite Performance mode at 1080p/1440p with a GTX1650

Look at these chapters....with various details and modes...

Also what OTHER Games do you want to get into...? as the GTX1650 will be lacking smoothness outside of 1080p/1440p lower settings or lighter games.

Australian Dollars.. $399 ish or more for a 12GB RTX3060 l which I would get over the 8GB for sure...

https://www.staticice.com.au/cgi-bin/search.cgi?q=rtx 3060&spos=5

You should be able to find a 12GB specific model, hopefully for the $399

12GB Version of the 3060.. with all the RTX suite support (RTX Voice/Broadcast/SuperRes/DLSS etc) you can use except Frame Generation which is does not support (albiet game modders are finding ways to integrate FrameGen on unsupported cards all the time)

4 hours ago, Szlaven said:

I recently bought an Asus rtx4070 OC 12 GB and I noticed that when only Windows runs it's at 52C and the memory and GPU clock at its full speed. I don't know how to set it to don't be on full speed, any idea? 

Nvidia Conrrol Panel

3D Settings / Power Management

Is it on Max Performance or Adaptive / Optimal?

Symptoms would appear its possibly set to Max P (Full Clocks on IDLE)

9 hours ago, seeyouyoosee said:

I don't really touch/change anything on my motherbord so they basically just running as default settings, which one is more power consuming?

Pretty negligible I'm actually a little surprised.

(Cinebench R20 Multicore 100% workload)

The 11900 series has a worse ddr4 memory controller than 10th gen, but your only chasing 3200Mhz so I doubt it's even an issue you'll come across. 3200Mhz isn't hard to attain it's the higher frequencies 11th gen has trouble with on DDR4.

11th Gen has a faster single core speed, and 10th gen 10 cores vs 8 cores isn't some huge advancement either in games.

The 10900K in heavy AVX workoads probably pulls more power too, and in AVX workloads, it gets pretty toasty and uses a lot of power, i mean thye both do, but the 11th gen has lesser amount of cores to throw power into in those scenarios and probably fares better temp/power wise.

1.08v on GPU is at the top end of the whole curve, you got plenty of under-volting headroom available... can still increased clocks if you want with reduced voltage as well, just not as much. Or leave clocks alone and reduce voltage or power targets.

Voltage down to say 1.0v and watch the power drop.... then add clockspeed (if you want) and test stability.

My 2080Ti will default around 1.043-1.05v 1980Mhz-2025Mhz, depending on temps summer or winter.

MSI Afterburner's Voltage Slider all maxed out, it'll see 1.08v as well.

But I set it for 2100Mhz 1.018v instead.

I targeted 1.018v with 2100-2115Mhz as my Undervolt/Overclock (+135)

Could do better still leaving it at 1980Mhz and setting between 0.875-0.950v (give or take some voltage to ensure stability)

Certain Types of games certainly feel optimal with less input delay iE Racing at 50fps vs 30fps.

Some other types of games like Red Dead Redemption 2 animations are long and sluggish so having 30fps doesn't feel as bad as the inputs already feel soaked up by animations on every action.

I personally prefer the slightly smoother 37hz half refresh (75hz) over 30fps lock for my minimum but 30 with good pacing and motion blur to blend, can be okay too..if done right.

Every 100Mhz Might get you up to 2%

I'd just leave it at 4.8 to be honest.

Have you considered uninstalling the drivers, and using a different set/prior version than the current one.

https://www.nvidia.com/download/find.aspx (select Desktop RTX 2060)

Their site allows you to seek out older drivers.

They occasionally run into new issues on new drivers, rolling back can help.

I'd also get familiar with DDU (Display Driver Uninstaller) AFTER ALREADY uninstalling the normal way to remove junk leftovers from the uninstall.