SkilledRebuilds

I would choose 1440p 144Hz as itll be easier to drive it as games get more demanding over time on the same GPU.

Nvidia has DLDSR modes enabling 4K 144Hz if you want it for easier to run titles, and can use DLSS in game as well.

I went from Native 1080p75Hz (with DlDSR 1440p/1620p and normal DSR 4K)

To  Native1440p 1765Hz when I doubled my GPU power.

DLDSR/DSR modes keep your refresh rate which is nice.

18 minutes ago, Berries said:

So you’re saying it’s basically nothing?

I'm saying I've had that for many years and nothing has happened across two systems with the same tiny click.

33 minutes ago, Berries said:

I have a gigabyte b660 and I just recently swapped this motherboard into a new case I also got a new psu cooler and fans and today 2 days after the swap I checked my cable management so I unplugged the computer and made sure to discharge it as well and now when it turns off the cpu light flashes red briefly before turning off. There is also a click that accompanies the turn off but the same click can be heard when you turn on the pc as well so I would really like some help. Especially because I just tested the pc and temps are good and performance is good I had like a 2 hour session in cyberpunk 2077 and there really seemed to be nothing wrong but I’m still concerned and confused. The specific psu I got is a seasonic focus gx-1000 80+ gold

I have the same click on my current system (off and on), and I've had it before on another power supply/case as well,  it's nothing to worry about, I had the previous system for 5 years nothing happened, and my current system is 4 years old, both did it, nothing has happened.

The CPU Light going red could just be discharging itself when you turn off the power, but I'm not sure, never encountered it just a guess.

43 minutes ago, Christopher_829 said:

No you did not say it's a current limit you said not to max a current limit those are not the same.
I did look it up and continued to find a bunch of worthless results.
You're literally criticizing me for asking a question with the purpose of learning something.

I said it's a current limit by definition, can you not read between the lines and see it for what it is, google ICC MAX and you get the answer right away, as I did that and first result has the answer on reddit "What is Processor ICC MAX", which has a detailed explanation, the second result on another website explains it again, and the third...and so on,. but your little "Should I say fuck it and Max it out" was stupid logic to even joke about, tweaking for the sake of tweaking without knowing what it does is dumb, I basically said so. but you can't handle the criticism for that.  Get over it already.

59 minutes ago, Salted Spinach said:

He's not going to turn on raytracing with a $500 card when using a 3840x1600 175 Hz display...

And there is no 16GB 4070 for $500

Anyone can/should sacrifice resolution for playable RT frames, it's on the individual, not everyone is like you, not everyone is like me.

The total user choice via various technologies that enable such things is what matters, it's up to him.

He doesn't have to play at Native Res 175Hz he has all the refresh rates in between 60-175Hz to work with in any given game, he can use 3840 @with DLSS or FSR. ^I'm not saying he SHOULD, just that he has the option depending on HIS specific wants and needs.

He said he'd be willing to up his budget if it was worth it, which is up to him, and deals can be found all over the place, depending on his buying options/location.

I'd would also recommend 16GB at a nicer price point as well just like you recommended. Be it AMD or Nvidia.

Just now, XZDX said:

I am getting better frame timings in games and general render times on a significantly older card and I am extremely confused

Technology isn't perfect,, never will be 100% perfect, but I'm glad you have a better experience, which is great.

Oh so this is what you meant by your shit posting other thread you made later on...

Why did you make the other thread when this exists..? Because no one cares or replied?

Shit posting... add more details of what you mean.

Oh he did, in another post.. then why make this one?

7 hours ago, mulox said:

 

A few more questions...

 

I had no idea the 2080 Ti came in different watt versions - how would I find out which one I have?

Does the 2080 Ti only come in 11gb and 22gb versions?

Also what is the deal with 12GB VRAM - why is that amount important?  

 

Thanks for the detailed info and videos, very helpful. That's just crazy how the 2080 Ti compares to the 4060 Ti - the only test it lost was Forza 5 out of 15 top games tested.  What the hell is Nvidia doing here??

 

So if I go with a 4070 Super...
1. What are the odds that my CPU will become a bottleneck, essentially reducing possible improvement?
2. Would I realize a least 15% or more increase in overall performance (not just fps)?
3. Would I actually be able to see the difference?

 

My preferred max spend is 350, but I would consider going up to 500 only if I can truly justify it - meaning I would actually notice a huge difference.  Even then, I am still leaning towards just getting another 2080 Ti, wait for the other cards to drop in price, and time it with my next PC build.

 

15% - If you start with low fps it doesn't seem like much, if you start high it does seem like something, even though it's the same gain.

100FPS-->115FPS (So you can see the difference)

30FPS--> 34.5FPS (Difference is there, less pronounced, worth it? up to you really)

It might allow for a better demanding experience (2080Ti pathtracing at 30-35fps with a controller, without it you might be dropping to sub 30fps)

Worth it is up to each individual..

Power limits - By default out of the box it will be set to 100%, cards with higher power limits can extend further but not enabled out of the box..

This is my 4080 Super in pictures below.

But my 2080Ti has a 126% vbios and goes from 300w to 375watts

You can check it with GPUZ - the advanced TAB, and in the drop down list, the second option is NVIDIA BIOS which tells you more information inc power limits.

You'd need a program like or similar to MSI Afterburner that allows you to enable the higher power limit slider (if available to you) and you can slide it further to the right for more power, at expense of temps/noise.

My 4080 Super is 320watt, I could flash a new vbios but I have no need just yet.. plus it might gain me another 5-10% is all (dependant of clockspeeds it can pull off), but at cost of temps/noise/power usage.

I did it to my 2080Ti and with an overclock, squeezed another 13% out of it. 300w to 377 watts (not always at 377 watts, more of an UP TO) depending on scene demand. in games with my 2100Mhz clockspeed on 2080Ti it would range from 300-350watts, if I kept the clocks at 2130-2160Mhz at 1.05volts it could bump up against the power limit and then drop clocks (affecting frametimes slightly) so I kept it at 2100Mhz at 1.0volts and it held that all day even in demanding 4K loads due to having enough power, and cooling with my radiator knowing every 5*c gain it lowers 15Mhz.

Flashing a vbios onto a card without dual bios is risky enough, but you can recover it if you have an integrated gpu to still load windows on, and then recover. Plus running a diff cards vbios can mess with display outputs and fan speeds, sometimes it's just fine, it varies bios to bios, but if familiar with bios updating you just run through a few...

But dualbios is less risky due to having a backup than single vbios.

If you ARE looking for a gain, not just a replacement product, I would go with 4070 GPU with 16GB RAM, the 8-10GB cards are getting close to their limits or being exceeded. esp if you tap into Raytracing with higher VRAM demands, or texture packs in some games.

Sorry everyone for the wall of text It just how I roll.

6 minutes ago, Rissi said:

How to check if the pc has any malware?

Before we get to that, please read the previous post, to which I've quoted below..
To make sure you are reading the right details of your computer, and then determine appropriate action.

2 hours ago, unclewebb said:

The Task Manager graphs show Utilization. That is not the same as Usage. Intel CPUs that use a high percentage of turbo boost will show much higher Utilization compared to actual usage. Make sure to only look at the Task Manager tab that reports usage.

Cheers @unclewebb

50 minutes ago, Rissi said:

How do I do that?? Sorry iam new to this pc stuffs 

Did you mean 100% USAGE or 100*C TEMPS.? Seems the few replies might think your talking about temps, but your title says Usage.

So just to clarify...

CPU Usage being 100% while doing little to nothing (when CPU is IDLE) could indicate some CPU Miner virus/malware..

CPU Temps being 100*c would indicate a bad cooler mount/install not being done right or a defecting pump.

9 minutes ago, Sparky862 said:

They are there, but the game is BADLY optimised. My system can't even reach 60fps with no upscallers. Adding the upscallers gives me roughly 80fps but dips to 10fps at some crazy fights or effects on the map.

 

Some maps you just stand still and the game drops to 20fps. All you do is stand still.

 

At 1080p I noticed the game is much more stable with my System. But I can't force the game on 1080p using Fullscreen Window Mode or even just Window Mode. Which is what I am trying to achive so I can still use my 2nd monitor.

1440p DLSS Q is 960p (basically 1080p) and it shouldn't really have such a negative effect vs what you stated 1080p 'stable' performed...

It's weird there is a sudden shift when using DLSS but I don't doubt you, the game does have many comments/threads/articles about how bad optimization is.

https://funk.eu/hrc/

This link is for HOTKEY Resolution Changer.

It can sit in your system tray and you can assign hotkeys to specific resolutions...

CNTL+1 for example 2650x1440p/### Hz and CNTL+2 can be 1080p ### Hz

So it would be a Hotkey based change, as opposed to you swapping it every time with MANY more clicks, you can just use a hotkey of your own choosing.

Should be near instant.

FYI I've never used it since 5 odd years ago and I had a single monitor at the time, but hopefully it will do what you want.

DLSS/FSR in this game? They are the Nvidia/AMD upscalers, in their respective 'quality' modes it can use 67%/58%/50% of native resolution, boosting framerates.

I also have the similar setup..

10850K OC platform with a 2080Ti OC the last 4-5 years..

2080Ti (300w model) power limit can match and beat the 4060ti already..

2080ti is a great GPU..

Bandwidth concerned 1440p the gap lengthens more over 1080p.

A sidegrade but a worthy replacement.

But if you want more performance (that's actually a gain) you'd want a 4070 or above...

2080/2080ti/4060/4060ti

2080Ti vs 4060ti

300w+ models hold 1920-2025mhz boost at stock 1.05v when kept cool enough. (Every 5*c = 15Mhz drop) from 30*c and up.

I have a 370w vbios on mine to scale clocks up and no clock drop at 4K when typically power limited at 300w.. Mine is on the NZXT Kraken AIO adapter and water-cooled with 240mm radiator to reduce temps/clock drops due to temp.

A lot different to most peoples but I love the 2080ti for what it can still do these last 4-5 years.

2080Ti even at 300w on air cooling can definetly hold its own vs the memory bandwidth crippled midrange today.. it sucks they offer little value over existing GPUs like 2080Ti/3070Ti/3080.

I'd say you'd want a 4070/Super/Ti or better.

Chasing a deal/good price on a 4070 or better would be an upgrade of sorts, but a 4060Ti not so much..

1 hour ago, Elite Knight said:

Cod mw3 needs AVX as does hell divers but I set the TDP 125Watt PL1 and 251Watt PL2 tau 56s.

Small fft about mid 80s with c stats off.

Should I make it 255 or the coolers rated 265 watt

Once you find the sweet spot for your cooler,..there is really no point messing about tweaking with super tiny adjustments to 'get the most out of it' when in tasks you won't notice the difference between 100Mhz or 200Mhz. (less than 2-4%) if it even lets it boost that much anyway.

As long as your temps and noise are okay, and performance is still acceptable, your good.

Beats being at 100*c anyway. the more you lift limits, the closer it will be again, arguably with more noise as well.

4 hours ago, podkall said:

which one is thicker then?

Really my guy?....Hardly the main point... (tower cooler having more surface area than box cooler) that we already know... I was just saying it's not the best thickness cooler for trying to  get the most out a 11700K, he should focus on power limits or temp limits being the main focus point.
 

You can punch in the numbers for PL1/PL2 instead of using the popups.

13 minutes ago, podkall said:

well Box cooler would mean stock or some weak cooler, Tower cooler is what you have.

It's not the thickest tower cooler though..

I'd hazard it won't keep up with 188watts that well when it's fully heat soaked and adding in GPU temps to the mix, airflow in the case another factor.

OP - Instead of 125w/250w or 125w/188w you can try 140w/180w or 125w/180w, even 125w/165w it all depends on what your cooler can handle...

Lets say your cooler can dissipate 160watts, you can very well set 140w/160w or 140w/188w and keep the Turbo Timer (PL2) at 56s or even lower it.

Depends how you want your processor to shift clockspeeds, if you want it bursty in clocks or relatively fixed..

Most games will run around 30-120w max depending on processor loads and how many cores it really uses (Shader caching example of 100% workloads for minutes or less), many games will be keeping boost clocks relatively high with minimal CPU usages under 30-50%, and your bursty workloads too.. like web browsing, clocks won't drop much.

But long workloads, it will drop 'some' clockspeed and voltage to reduce power once it hits the target power usage,..and then temps will drop using lower clocks/voltages.

Motherboards can do some weird AUTO stuff as well, most of your settings are on AUTO, allcore being set but still appears to be using the Turbo mechanisms, enhanced turbo at auto, could very well be enabled or disabled..

Power limiting is the easier method of keeping it in line, as is the TJMax at say 80-90*c not 100*c as a separate use case function you can play around with.

I did this with my 2080ti and God of War was borderless fullscreen, limited to 1080p to I set desktop to 4K (keeping my refresh rate is a nice bonus to DSR modes)

For hotkey switching... Try this.

https://funk.eu/hrc/

13 hours ago, Christopher_829 said:

Obviously you should learn first

 

Why do you even bother to respond when you weren't going to answer

I said in my post it's a current limit,.. try reading the whole thing next time.

That you should learn what things are before outright maxing them out. Which you now agree ^ but didn't think of this when making your joke seen below, it didn't even come across as a joke, but ill give you the benefit of the doubt.

You could have googled ICC MAX and found out in 10 seconds as well what it was.

I did answer, whether you felt attacked the way I did so or not isn't my concern, It's a valid response and clearly you should apply critical thinking and learn the basics at least before you just DO things.

On 5/17/2024 at 8:31 AM, Christopher_829 said:

Should I say fuck it and set it to the max to see what happens?

1440p Vote, when in doubt or need more fps/performance use DLSS/FSR at Quality or Balanced or NIS in the control panel for Nvidia cards (Nvidia Image scaling if the other two are not available)

Can still look a lot better than 1080p Native with TAA Antialiasing, as FSR2 or DLSS will override TAA with their own algorithm for a cleaner image, even at 1080p upscaled (typically)

"Weird" how, just because you don't know what it is..?

Learn first, test after acquiring the skills/information, not the other way around.

I'll give you a hint... ELECTRICITY, more isn't always better.

Gaming would be a better use of your time.

2 hours ago, whispous said:

That's actually coming across as very, very rude. Shimejii actually gave you solid useful advice. If you came here wanting to hear something in particular rather than the truth, i'm not sure what the point of the question was.

The question was... "How can I get what I want,.. while ignoring the advice given,.. and still get what I want?"

OP I'd use the 2TB NVME as your C:\, also....Do you know that your files are likely to be done on the read/write (finished reading/writing) before it even hits Raid 0 max speed anyway? And only in sequential files would it likely ever be seen, if at all,... tiny files perform slower than large sequential files, and large sequential files are rare enough of a workload you'll likely never see max speed unless in specific scenarios.

Wiggle the Display Cable/s,....

When he plugs the display cables in, turn the PC on, get to windows..(Driver loaded)., give the cable a wiggle, see if it creates the artifact.

If so,... Replace his display cables.

I've seen this with a cable that I thought was A-OK but wasn't, stressed about it, but prior to replacing anything, I test cables and what do ya know, a little wiggle instigated the artifacting off and on with certain wiggles. (Could be the port or the cable) but just make the user aware of such things.

Lazy personalities would just leave it and re-wiggle every now n then.. but replacing it would be advised.

9 minutes ago, lizziemc12 said:

I currently have a RTX 2060 with 6 GB of VRAM and I was wondering if this is a good amount of VRAM for current high end games or if it is not enough these days in 2024. Also if I run out of VRAM will it just stop working or will it pull from my ordinary RAM in my computer. I don't play games on ultra settings or anything crazy like that but it seems like it is getting to the high end of utilisation when on medium to some high settings. 

You can use lower resolutions (NOT DLSS based, actual reductions to native res) to aid in lasting longer with VRAM concerns.

DLSS still has to input/output TO THE output res (DLSS Targets) so it doesn't always save the amount VRAM that you'd expect it to.

Where reducing native resolution does typically. It also depends game to game, techonlogy to technology..

You can activate NIS (Nvidia Image Scaling) in the driver (forcing say... 600p/720p/900p native render) it will render natively at the lower resolutions and output' at your monitor panel, but different to DLSS methods and has a much better chance of using less VRAM in its operation.

18 minutes ago, Tamgam12 said:

That's why I'm here. Cleared the cmos a fifth time and it's back up. I'm going to leave the xmp on and call it a day for awhile. I appreciate your help.

Cool, you said it's a fresh build, and now you are up and running get used to how it is now,create mental snapshots of how it should be... even do some tests/grab results from your baseline stock performance so you can tell if it gets better or worse when you start your overclock.

Happy gaming!