beavo451

So there is some concern with this system. The HVAC is either on or off. It requires a certain airflow over the evaporator. If you close off enough of the dampers and choke airflow over the evaporator, it could freeze (literally). Also, without conducting a study, I doubt that there will be any actual cost savings. Cutting off airflow to an unused room isn't going to make the HVAC system any more efficient. The HVAC system will be still on and pulling full power. You also run the coil icing risk mentioned above. Unoccupied rooms should be set to have the damper open. Example: Only the master bedroom is occupied. The system heat/cools that specific room while the rest of the (large) house is uncontrolled and just gets hotter or colder overall. Then you exit the master and start moving through out the house. The HVAC will then need to kick on for an extended period of time to cool or heat the house. Plus the fact that the AC is running 100% no matter what dampers are open or close. So you are running a whole house AC to cool one room. Edit: Yeah Linus really needs to read the YouTube comments. There are some serious concerns with the functionality of this system.

Specs: I7 7700k MSI Gaming Z270 Gaming M5 EVGA GTX 1080 EVGA 650 G2 After shutting down, the power button no longer works. If I unplug and plug it back in or use the switch on thee PSU, the computer turns on immediately without pressing the power button. There appears to be no standby power to the motherboard (there is a red LED that is normally lit when the computer is off). So, what do y'all think? MB or PSU?

The voltage drop and power loss isn't that big of a deal. The real problem with undersized extension cords is the heat. Try to draw too much current through too small of a cord is dangerous because the connectors and the cord heats up. It can cause fires. Especially if any parts are coiled up and concentrating the heat.

Clear CMOS. If you don't know how to do that, boot into BIOS with one stick of RAM and reset to default.

Does it boot to Windows with both sticks installed? Does Windows show the correct amount of RAM? If you are in Windows, try this to boot to the BIOS: https://www.laptopmag.com/articles/access-bios-windows-10

Does it boot with only the new stick in the place of the old one? Are you installing it in the correct slot?

You would need line of sight between the two antennas for a wireless bridge to work well.

Did you unplug it an plug it back in?

If you have only Internet service and not phone/TV, you can ask the installer to give you Ethernet from the ONT.

Always better? That depends on how you define better.

Not everything about storage performance is "boot time". M.2 is the connector. NVMe refers to the storage being interfaced with the PCIe bus. Not all NVMe drives are connected via M.2 and not all M.2 connected devices are NVMe.

Cable companies have absolutely nothing to do with it. Just wait until you start getting into MiB vs MB and stuff.

Ok, so what is your goal? You've never clearly stated it.

I’m going to guess it’s going to be a bios limitation. May not support booting from the PCIe bus.

No. Nobody does that.