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Seanzky

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  • Posts

    39
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    NY

System

  • CPU
    Intel i7 7700K
  • Motherboard
    ASRock Fatal1ty Z270 Gaming K4
  • RAM
    EVGA SuperSC DDR4-3000 32GB (4x 8GB)
  • GPU
    Asus Strix GTX 1070 OC Edition
  • Case
    Antec P-100 Silent
  • Storage
    Samsung 960 EVO 500GB / Samsung 850 EVO 500GB / Seagate 4TB
  • PSU
    EVGA SuperNOVA 750 B1 80+ BRONZE
  • Display(s)
    Asus VG248QE / Asus VG248QE / Acer GD235HZ
  • Cooling
    Noctua NH-U14S (2x NF-A15, push-pull)
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G410 Atlas Spectrum
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum
  • Sound
    ONBOARD
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Home
  1. Not sure to be honest. I'll look into that.
  2. I posted something similar here: Not sure why it's performing like that even with Samsung's own software.
  3. Just basing on the screenshot, and of course not there to see how everything is for myself, it looks like the cooler can't keep up. The idle looks normal for the cooler with your ambient temps. When CPU utilization spikes, the cooler just can't keep up with heat dissipation.
  4. I'm going to be $50 richer tomorrow because a co-worker who doesn't watch any boxing bought the hype. I already know how this will end. I might not even watch it.
  5. I have Noctua NH-U14S with two NF-A15 fans in a push-pull configuration. The other differences, other than motherboard and all that that, between our set up is that my ambient is much lower at 22*C. My temps read much, much lower. My CPU at 100%, running forever, refuses to go past 68*C. I am not that familiar with the NH-U12S, but I don't think the temperature discrepancy between our setup should be that much. My idle temperatures hover around 34*C. Do you have another CPU cooler you can test against to find out for sure?
  6. Also make sure it's mounted properly (even pressure on top of the IHS with no gaps).
  7. Thanks again for all your help @Sniperfox47 and everyone else that tried. I finished everything last night and I got to keep my Windows license as well as be in UEFI mode.
  8. Bang for your buck, I'd say Corsair SP or AF depending on the application. Just for chassis, I'd say AF. Radiator or heat sink, SP.
  9. I already have that set up actually. I do have my 850 EVO with my games in it. Good point. Forgot about that. Is there a way to just factory reset Windows 10 with the option to use GPT instead of MBR or do I have to do a reformat and start from scratch? Right now my 960 EVO is the only MBR and my 850 EVO and Seagate 4TB are both GPT. My motherboard is already in UEFI mode just that my boot drive (NVMe) is still on MBR because Windows was installed using legacy. *sigh*
  10. Ah! Good point! I did change motherboards and I do remember reading something about that in their knowledge base. Thanks. I just might do that then. As for using Windows 7 license in Windows 10, that's what my second license is. Haha. I was ready to spend and buy another Windows 10 but after trying my legit Windows 7 Home Premium key, which I bought for my laptop that has since been converted to Linux, it worked and allowed to be activated. Sigh. The only painful part now is not reinstalling everything but the massive game library and the time it will take to download. I also have to write that ISO to a USB stick again because I'm pretty sure I've reformatted that thing since. But thank you so much again for reminding me about the motherboard thing!
  11. I really wish I had done this but it never crossed my mind for some reason when I was reinstalling Windows 10. The thing is that when I installed Windows, I didn't use an online account. Unless I installed Windows using an online account, Microsoft just gobbles up the legit license I have. This already happened and I am on my second legit Windows license. I couldn't reuse my first license because it wasn't linked to an online account. The license I'm using now is my last one.
  12. It's a little confusing and not as simple for my motherboard, but I've already done this. I have an ASRock Z270 Fatal1ty Gaming K4.
  13. So I closed my SSD to my NVMe and even though my NVMe was supposed to be GPT, because my SSD (Win 10 OS) had MBR, it converted the NVMe to MBR. I tried using the mbr2gpt tool in windows\system32 but kept getting an error. After looking deeper into it, I realized it was because my BIOS mode was in legacy (verified in System Information). How do I change this without reinstalling Windows 10 from a USB? I already changed in my motherboard's BIOS from legacy to UEFI but this doesn't seem to affect the BIOS mode in Windows. I'm pretty sure this is all that's preventing me from converting my NVMe from MBR to GPT.
  14. What others are saying is right. I personally own both but only got the 960 EVO 500GB because it's on sale at Micro Center, which I doubt is in Australia. At $189 and my 850 EVO 500GB running out of room, I figured I'd try it. In terms of performance, you have to be doing heavy duty read/write to get your money's worth.
  15. @Qi_Forever, actually, thank you! You gave me an idea. I'll move my NVMe to the top slot and move the SATA drives to different SATA ports. I wonder if the top slot is faster. EDIT: Never mind. Just confirmed in the PDF manual that there will be no difference between either slots. PDF (page 38): http://asrock.pc.cdn.bitgravity.com/Manual/Fatal1ty Z270 Gaming K4.pdf
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