Sailboy42

We expect to get the launch with soon after availability after 27.05.2019.
 
The motherboard Manufacturers spoilered that BIOS with Ryzen 3000 support will be available next month as well.

@Sailboy42 your hard drives are pretty expensive for HDD's the WD blacks are, from my understanding, usually used by video editors. Since you have two of them i'm assuming you want to raid 0 them. Instead I would suggest using a Seagate Firecuda drive instead. I've tried raid 0 with HD's and it still feels really slow compared to solid state drives. The firecuda is a hybrid drive with an 8gb sdd for exceleration. It really helps if you're using it for gaming after the first load. I'm using one in my PS4 pro and i'm really happy with it. Also the Firecuda is cheaper. 
 
One thing to keep in mind is stock case fans are usually loud, so you might want to budget for adding some nice magnetic levitation fans (bonus they are quiet). Also with ryzen you should try to get ram around 3000 mhz speed.  
 
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/NpBrxr/seagate-firecuda-2tb-35-7200rpm-hybrid-internal-hard-drive-st2000dx002
 

You'll be better served with Intel, I'd say try out 16GB first and only add another kit for a total of 32GB later if you feel you truly need it.
 
Run Windows 10 unregistered for a while, no need to pay such an expensive price tag for what you can use for free.
 
PCPartPicker Part List
CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700 3.2 GHz 6-Core Processor  ($294.99 @ Walmart)
CPU Cooler: be quiet! - Pure Rock 51.7 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler  ($35.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte - B360M DS3H Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  ($69.89 @ OutletPC)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-2400 Memory  ($76.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Western Digital - Blue 500 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive  ($64.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Seagate - Barracuda 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce RTX 2080 8 GB WINDFORCE Video Card  ($699.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Cooler Master - MasterBox Q300L MicroATX Mini Tower Case  ($45.28 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair - RMx (2018) 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($63.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $1406.79
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-04-28 23:01 EDT-0400

For $1 more you can get the black edition, the evo just has no place anymore with its price so high.
Only splurge on the drive speed when video/photo editing is a main priority. An NVMe SSD is not useful in a gaming PC.
 
try this out:
PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD - Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor $179.99 @ Amazon CPU Cooler Cooler Master - Hyper 212 Black Edition 42 CFM CPU Cooler $31.99 @ Amazon Motherboard Asus - ROG STRIX B450-F GAMING ATX AM4 Motherboard $119.99 @ Newegg Memory Corsair - Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-2400 Memory $149.99 @ Amazon Storage Samsung - 860 Evo 250 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive $67.99 @ Amazon Storage Western Digital - 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $104.95 @ Amazon Storage Western Digital - 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $104.95 @ Amazon Video Card Gigabyte - GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB WINDFORCE Video Card $478.99 @ SuperBiiz Case Phanteks - Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case $95.98 @ Newegg Power Supply SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply $61.98 @ Newegg Keyboard Rosewill - RK-9000V2 BR Wired Standard Keyboard $64.99 @ Amazon   Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts     Total (before mail-in rebates) $1496.79   Mail-in rebates -$35.00   Total $1461.79   Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-04-28 22:53 EDT-0400  

I am planning on building my first build after a few years of watching Linus and the pc crowd. I have done a lot of research and would like to hear all ya'lls opinion on my choices. My goal was to build that was VR ready, and capable of light to medium photo/video editing and airflow is a heavy priority. If there's anywhere you believe I can save money or suggest an upgrade all comments would be appreciated! Also, I can't find a good case with front USB-c support.
 
Here is my current build...
PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD - Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor $179.99 @ Amazon CPU Cooler Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler $29.89 @ OutletPC Motherboard Asus - ROG STRIX B450-F GAMING ATX AM4 Motherboard $119.99 @ Newegg Memory Corsair - Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-2400 Memory $149.99 @ Amazon Storage Samsung - 970 Evo 250 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive $99.69 @ OutletPC Storage Western Digital - 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $104.95 @ Amazon Storage Western Digital - 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $104.95 @ Amazon Video Card Gigabyte - GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB WINDFORCE Video Card $478.99 @ SuperBiiz Case Phanteks - Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case $95.98 @ Newegg Power Supply EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply $85.56 @ OutletPC Operating System Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit $139.89 @ OutletPC Keyboard Rosewill - RK-9000V2 BR Wired Standard Keyboard $64.99 @ Amazon   Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts     Total (before mail-in rebates) $1704.86   Mail-in rebates -$50.00   Total $1654.86   Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-04-28 22:43 EDT-0400    

Network Attached Storage and Home Servers
 
If you're reading this, you've seen Linus' videos and might be curious about having a centralized storage location in the form of a NAS or a home server, so let's talk about that.
There are many benefits to having a home server or a NAS, the most prominent of which is a single location to store data and to back up computers to, keeping your data safe. Other aspects might involve additional services that your centralized storage location can provide, including shared printers, media streaming, and e-mail services.
 
There are plenty of existing systems out there, such as those made by Synology, Qnap, and Netgear. There are also small business units available, such as the WD Sentinel. All of these come either pre-filled with drives or empty (in which case you'll need to buy drives). They tend to have a web-based interface as well as a Windows folder interface, which allows you to access your data from both inside and outside your home network.
 
The advantages of pre-built systems are:
Easy to set up (Relatively) inexpensive Come pre-loaded with features Come with warranties Have built-in RAID Can have "special features" like being fireproof/waterproof/shockproof, such as the IOSafe N2 However, they also have their disadvantages:
Performance can be lacking sometimes, especially when running in RAID 5 Unless you buy an expandable unit, you are limited to the number of drives the NAS can hold You also have the option to build your own, which allows you to build any number of configurations from the very simple to a system rivaling those found in the LTT 10TB+ Storage Topic.
 
The advantages of custom-made systems are:
You can reuse existing hardware if it's just lying around. Custom RAID setup (hardware, software, ZFS, etc) Custom networking equipment (4-port gigabit NIC or even a 10G NIC) Custom CPU (or multiple CPUs), RAM, GPU (if you want) Custom software (Windows Server/Home Server, Linux, FreeNAS/ZFS, unRAID, etc) Custom storage configuration (up to 144 TB with a 24-drive rackmount case and 6TB drives) Customize services (Media sharing, e-mail server, CIFS/NFS/AFP shares, VPN server, and tons of others) And the downsides:
You have to build it (although this might be a fun project) You have to maintain it There is a learning curve to software for servers which you will have to climb I personally think building your own is a really cool project, but if maintenance of server hardware doesn't sound like fun then maybe you'll want to go with a regular NAS.

RAID: Pros/Cons
First, let's ask the question:
 
What is RAID?
RAID 0 (Stripe)
 RAID 1 (Mirror)
RAID 5 (Parity)
RAID 10 (Striped + Mirrored)
Should I run drives in RAID?
 
What kind of controller should I use for RAID?
To summarize:
 
Running a hardware RAID array can dramatically increase performance and help to alleviate some of the previously mentioned problems. RAID can protect against data loss for an always-on system. If you want a dedicated scratch disk or some other small, high-performance volume, chipset RAID should be fine using SSDs. Run in RAID 0.  
NOTE: RAID is NOT backup! If your RAID array fails and isn't recoverable, you're boned. You should always have a backup system in place. Companies realize this, that's why there are extremely complex storage systems in existence and entire data centers designed to protect valuable data.
 
What about using smaller SSDs and just RAIDing them? That'll be super fast.
 But which drives should I use for RAID?
Can I RAID different hard drives together?
 
Is there a downside to running RAID?

Yes, definitely. We'll list a few here:
Single Point of Failure: If your drives are hooked up to hardware RAID controller, then what happens if your controller fails? Your entire array goes down, meaning all your data is offline until you can get a replacement. Once you get one, you might be able to restore the array. Maybe. The same idea follows for motherboard chipset RAID or poor software RAID implementations.

Solution: There isn't one for a hardware RAID controller, but it can be done with some software RAID solutions (ZFS being the most notable one). By using a JBOD controller (or running a hardware RAID controller in JBOD or IT mode), a software RAID solution can build a RAID array with drives from multiple controllers, meaning one controller failure doesn't have to spell D-O-O-M for your data, if planned properly.

Here's something I wrote about reducing SPoFs.
  Unrecoverable Read Errors: This isn't unique to a RAID configuration, drives that aren't running in RAID can experience UREs just the same as drives running in RAID. However, consumer drives (that is to say, anything but the WD Red/Purple/SE/RE or Seagate NAS/Constellation) lack a feature called TLER (Time-Limited Error Recovery), which will prevent the drive from trying to read a bad sector on a drive after a few seconds. This is important for a RAID array, because if a drive stops responding for more than a few seconds the RAID controller can label the drive as bad.

What this means is that if you aren't using proper hard drives, and you hit a URE, your RAID array will become degraded even though only one or two sectors might be bad, whereas on a TLER drive the RAID controller might be able to reconstruct the data and work around that bad sector (or fix it). Once you replace the drive, the RAID array will have to rebuild. If you hit another URE and aren't using a TLER drive, the RAID array will deem that drive bad too. If you happen to be running RAID 5, you now have two "dead" drives in the eyes of the controller, meaning all your data is gone, even though you might only have a few bad sectors.

Solution: You should be using WD Reds or Seagate NAS drives at a minimum. If you aren't, then I hope you have reliable backups, because you'll likely lose your data during a RAID rebuild. The risk is greatest to parity RAID setups, and is smaller with a RAID 1 or RAID 10 because less data needs to be reconstructed; in parity RAID, all data must be read and rebuilt, while in RAID 10 only the corresponding mirror needs to be rebuilt.

If you only have a partially full array and your hardware/software RAID controller/software supports it, you will have a reduced risk of a URE because it will only rebuild the actual data, ignoring empty sectors. An example of this is ZFS. Most hardware RAID controllers will rebuild all sectors on the drive, even empty ones. This is because RAID controllers only know about blocks, not files, so they can't tell which blocks need to be rebuilt and which don't.
  Cost: RAID controllers aren't cheap. The cheapest one that I could recommend goes for around $200 USD, and you won't get good performance out of it. Better controllers with onboard cache go for hundreds of dollars more, and controllers with more ports go for even more. Then there's the matter of you paying for drive space you can't use due to parity or mirroring. It is expensive to set up RAID.

Sorry, but there's no solution here. You get what you pay for.

Plugging In Your Drives: Motherboard Ports,
SATA Revisions and External Drives
 
By now you've probably chosen your drives, so the next step is to attach them to your computer. Barring some elaborate RAID configuration, you'll likely be asking the question:
 
Where do I plug my drives in to?
So which ports do I plug my drives in to?
 
Well now you have to ask yourself:
 
What port is the slowest port that will still allow my drive to reach its maximum performance?
What about USB hard drives?
USB hard drives are external, and are great for backups. You also can install applications and programs on them if you really want to. 
There are two factors to consider:
 
Is my HDD USB 2.0 or USB 3.0? Am I plugging it in to a USB 2.0 or USB 3.0 port? Remember how we said that hard drives get around 100 MB/s average transfer rates for large files? That corresponds to 800 Mbps, which is much faster than USB 2.0's 480 Mbps maximum transfer rate. This means that hard drives will (generally) get better performance if they are USB 3.0 enabled, as long as they are plugged into a USB 3.0 port which is capable of 5 Gbps, which is plenty for modern hard drives and enough for the few external SSDs out there. For a USB 2.0 enabled drive, it won't matter since it doesn't support the USB standard which will allow it to go faster than 480 Mbps (about 60 MB/s)
 
In short:
 
Plug in a USB 2.0 drive to a USB 2.0 or USB 3.0 port. Plug in a USB 3.0 drive to a USB 3.0 port.  

Choosing Your Drives
 
Now that you've decided what kind of drive to get, you might be asking:
 
Which drive should I get?
What differentiates SSDs?
Will a PCI-E or NVMe SSD get me around the SATA bottleneck?
Miscellaneous Q/A:

Can I use a NAS drive as my boot drive?
 
Yes. The only real difference is in performance, noise, and power consumption, which you can find on the spec sheet. You won't gain any benefit from the drive's TLER feature, but it won't hurt either.
 
What the eff is Bit Error Rate?
 
Bit Error Rate (BER) is a measure of how often Unrecoverable Read Errors occur. They are usually specified in # of bad sectors per # of bits read. For example, the WD Red series specifies 1 bad sector per 1014 bits (12.5 TB) read. Confusingly, WD's datacenter drive rate their BER in terms of 10 bad sectors per 1015/1016 bits rather than 1 bad sector per 1014/1015.
 
What the eff is an Unrecoverable Read Error?
 
An Unrecoverable Read Error (URE) occurs when a hard drive is unable to read a sector. This could be due to physical drive damage, radiation, cosmic rays, natural degradation of the hard drive platters, etc. This usually will result in corrupted data, but it doesn't happen very often (see Bit Error Rate). On consumer grade drives the drive will attempt to read the sector for a long time, then give up and continue reading the next sector, while on NAS and enterprise drives they will stop after only a few seconds, allowing the overarching RAID controller to deal with the error and try to fix the data.
 
What makes a drive a "NAS" drive or "Enterprise" drive?
 
A NAS drive is a hard drive that supports Time-Limited Error Recovery (TLER). That's usually about it, though they may have some other additional technologies that make the drive perform more consistently or be more reliable. Examples include the WD Red/Purple and Seagate NAS drive. They're optimized to run in a consumer NAS, usually 1-5 bays.
 
There's a lot more to Enterprise drives; they're basically drives with many of the same features as NAS drives, but with additional tweaks that optimize them for some given task. Examples are below:
WD SE: Affordable bulk storage. WD RE: High-availability. WD XE: Small-capacity, high-performance.
  Seagate Terascale: Affordable bulk storage. Seagate Enterprise Capacity: Reliable storage (formerly Constellation). Seagate Enterprise Performance: Small-capacity, high-performance (I think it used to be the Cheetah brand). Seagate Archive: SMR cold storage, designed for incremental backups and reliable recovery. One thing to keep in mind: All of these drives are perfectly reliable as long as they are used in the appropriate environment. Putting an SE drive in the same environment as an XE drive will probably result in the drive dying much quicker.
 

How To: Choosing Your Storage Devices
 
Everybody needs storage, some of us need more of it than others (I'm looking at you 10TB+ storage topic). The primary media for data storage these days is the hard disk drive (HDD) and, in recent years, the solid state drive (SSD). From the most basic of users to enterprise-level systems, these two devices are used to fulfill our storage needs in varying configurations to meet a given workload.
 
My hope is that this will serve as a tutorial to guide storage newcomers in choosing their own storage configurations. While this post will advise the type of drive to use, there will be additional posts linked here to shorter tutorials on:
Choosing Specific Drives Plugging In Drives: Motherboard Ports, SATA Revisions and External Drives RAID - Pros/Cons Network Attached Storage and Home Servers  
First, we must ask ourselves: Exactly what ARE hard drives and solid state drives?'
 
Now that you know what storage does, you might also be interested in a better or even “the best” (gasp) storage solution. You start asking some questions.
 
What type of drive is best for me?
 
Okay, now you ask another question:
 
What size is best for me?
Cool, so now you know if you need a little, average, or a lot of storage space. Now on to your next question:
 
How much does storage cost?
 
Why pay more for a hard drive or SSD, you might ask?
Now you might be worried that, at some point, your storage device is going to fail.
 
All storage devices will fail at some point, but the question is when?
 
Let's talk about performance.
 
Why is there such a range for random access on SSDs?
 
Okay, now it's time to ask:
 
What will you be doing with your system?
In the end, the choice is up to you, the user. I hope this guide has been successful in helping you choose the type of storage that will give you the most value for your money, and I wish you luck as you explore the vast possibilities of the wonderful world of storage.
 
I'd also like to give credit to Whaler_99 for reviewing and providing some critique on this guide, and to looney for directing me to Whaler.
 
Finally, I'd like to thank Linus for his videos, from which I learned much of my initial knowledge about storage, which was built upon by my years in the IT industry.

The most widely recommended backup strategy is known as the 3-2-1 method. Keep 3 copies of your data, 2 on different mediums, and one stored offsite in case of disaster. There's nothing inherently wrong with using RAID, it's just that people often mistake it for a backup when the main function of RAID is either to squeeze performance out of your disks (RAID-0) or prevent having to take your entire server/system offline to rebuild arrays, the concept being that if a drive goes down, you just swap it out for a new one and the array rebuilds from the information stored securely on the other disks. RAID 5 will still be a bit on the slow side, RAID-6 and RAID 10 can both be beneficial, both have upsides. RAID 10 is usually seen as a little faster, and sometimes gets preference over RAID-6 because they technically can both withstand 2 drive losses. There's a catch to this, however: RAID 10 can only withstand 2 drive losses if the right two drives fail, because RAID 10 is essentially both RAID 1 and RAID 0 together, meaning you have 2 mirror disks and 2 striping disks. RAID 6 can, however, withstand any two drives in the array going down. So you just have to weigh where your priorities lie on a scale with one end being redundancy and the other end being performance. Only you will know that. 

An external drive as a backup can be a strong solution, one of the benefits being that you can back it up periodically and then disconnect, meaning if your system gets plagued by malware or ransomware, it obviously can't get to a copy of your data that the system can't see because it's simply not connected.External drives also are one of the more portable solutions, so they can sometimes make sense for that 3rd copy of the data you can store somewhere offsite. NAS enclosures are viable solutions as well as long as you don't plan on them being the sole location of your data. You could also sign up for a subscription cloud data storage service if you'd like. It just comes down to determining which mix of solutions makes the most sense for you and gives you the most peace of mind.

As far as which drives are best for RAID, that would be drives branded for NAS use, such as our IronWolf drives. These drives have firmware built for RAID optimization, and, depending on which model you go for, some also have physical RV (Rotational Vibration) sensors which help detect vibration caused by multiple drives working together in small, enclosed spaces and cut down on potential issues with both performance and longevity on the drives from those vibrations.