KillSwitch87

Tbh I have not clue about electricity... ended up asking an electrician to come and check it out. He will be here tomorrow, hope he knows what he’s doing 

I just firmly grab the thing and lift it like I'm dead lifting and try not to bash my fingers in door ways walking around with it. 

It's not that big of a deal if you're using soft tubing and if your case doesn't have a lot of flex, but with hard tubing case flex can cause leaking.

You want to do it In the case with only the pump molex and a couple of fans plugged in via molex. If you don't have a PSU shroud, or it's not located above the loop (like mine in INWIN 303) then you need to keep it outside the case. If the leak check outside it really gains you nothing, most if not all leaks occur around the fittings which you will be removing the tubing from and refitting post the rebuild in the case, so the risk of leaking is the same. Also as already said, I use paper towels/tissue around every fitting and put it across the GPU also, as that is where most drips seem to end up (in my loops anyway). 
Lastly don't plug any cables into the board, GPU or HDD/SSD's and use a shorting plug/small wire to short across a green and black wire on the 24 pin cable from your PSU. Remember when you do this, ensure the switch is to off on the PSU as it will power the pump and fans straight away!
 
Leak checking my old rig - Dual loops - many leaky chances 
 

I recently posted a detailed picture of how to power a pump with a jumper.

Not much to look at, but here are some in-development pictures of my build. i7-7700k and a Titan XP in the loop, all inside of a Node 202 case. At first the thermal results were a little disappointing. I switched the fans to be between the GPU and the radiator pushing air out the bottom of the case and now it works great. It fits with all of the exterior shell of the case being unmodified. Pretty happy with the results. 

Ok thanks. Running it on 100% isn't an issue as long as it's not running dry right?

I test mine fully built. If  my pump doesn't see a signal it runs at 100% anyway.
I normally just turn it on, fill the loop as much as I can before it slows down. Then get into windows, turn the pump to max and keep filling the loop.
If im doing any like this, that means the distilled water is fresh and isn't gonna do anything anyway. Ive had every component covered in water at some point. Havent lost a single one though.
 
Even iff you do test it out side, moving it all into the case could loosen something and cause a leak afterward. I prefer to do things the simpler and faster way.

I'm with W-L, if you run the loop outside the case to test for leaks you'll have to redo the same test inside the case. You can get a cheap molex psu or something to power the pump while you test it. In my most recent loop, even though everything looked good to go, I had a leak that was dripping right on top of my HDD. What I do when testing is set up some thick paper towels by every fitting in case a leak occurs. Here's an example of my system when leak testing:
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You should be testing with the system assembled as in place and do not power the motherboard. Run the pump directly from the PSU outside of the case and have lots of paper towels around justincase there are drips or a leak that will occur. Leak testing should be at the very least 6 hours and just leave it to run since nothing in the system is powered it it does leak the likelyhood of something dying is quite low. Usually a leak will occur immediately is something is wrong. 

Do whatever looks good to you.  As long as you're using proper in/outlets (if there are any, most blocks/pumps have specified in/outs and rads/res usually don't) you'll be fine.  Water temps equalize within the system, especially with only a single component being cooled. 

Feels a bit raised from the rest of teh panels surface, might actually be some sort of sticker?  I'll double-check what the material is, thanks

SSD's definitely, they're light and don't damage as easily as HDD.  HDD are heavier too so I'd only tape them if they're already sitting flat on a surface. 

Yup, 3m double sided tape.

In regards to storage, I bailed on my drive bay (though I can probably cram it back in) as I don't need it.  Put an m.2 ssd on the mobo and a couple of 2.5mm ssds/hdds under a psu shroud or something.

The top can accept a 360mm radiator too, so why don't you try your configuration on the top of the case instead of the front, this way you can keep your storage bays if you really need it.
 
You have two 2.5" bays on the PSU shroud, if you have one SATA SSD you can put it there for the OS then put the 3.5" disks in the removable front slots and place them under the shroud with some double sided tape and stack them. If your MOBO supports m.2, which i see you mentioned you can use one m.2 as the boot disk, that will go on the MOBO and then use the 2.5" as storage but you will need more drives in the future once you horde data as most of us do.
 

Here's my loop in the H440, as I see you're using the same case as me. Also, in my old setup, I had the reservoir on top of the PSU shroud and it was completely fine.

Yes that'll be fine, loop order doesn't matter except for the reservoir being before the pump