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Um if its good enough for the DOD its good enough for me. If people are trying to kill me I don't think I would give a %^$# about my computer.

Personally I would look at a 1080 or 1080 ti second hand.

Usually motherboards support a boot option like F8/F12 where you can specify the drive you want to boot from.

Guys for most users getting some software that writes multiple zeros over them is enough, on the other hand if you're really paranoid, do what I do and stick them in your sock draw.

What motherboard are you running your i3 on and are there any options to plug a second hand CPU in it that would be an upgrade. I extended the life of My X58 boards by buying Xeons from Ebay. It was quite the success with overclocks to 4.5 ghz and and getting 6 Cores. My son is still playing the latest games on his and hes using a 1070 with it. The only reason I upgraded to Ryzen was I wanted a UEFI bios. I would wait on Ryzen 2, I have cpu's from both Ryzen generations and yes they are faster than my antique systems however I can play all the latest games on my x5675's.

Retry the card back in your PC to validate you don't have a hardware problem, also you could try your new card in his pc to see if it still hangs. Did you fully update Windows. I was unable to get the latest drivers from AMD to work on My 290x, I am using 18.9.3 of the Radeon drivers. I should also say I was unable to get WIndows 10 1803 to install on my older systems. You could rule out the power supply by trying yours in his system.

I have a lot of experience with Graphics cards triggering a fault through the power supply not providing enough power, in these cases I have seen multiple PC's reboot completely. The symptoms you describe don't quite match that. Did you fully remove the old drivers and install new drivers?

there are locking tabs on the USB header on the motherboard you need to use... very carefully a shim or spudger to lever out the blue piece from the socket if you are careful enough the Mobo will probably be allright. You could probably take it to a cell phone repair place and see if they could help. Alternatively you can get spudgers from ifixit.

Try rolling back your drivers to previous drivers. Try to find drivers that were available when your PC was working, However I will point out that if the PC won't even turn on it may be a hardware issue with your video card so I would also advise borrowing a card from a friend and trying that to rule out any issues with the motherboard. If the issue continues with the borrowed card the motherboard is having issues.

I wrote my code for my Arduino cooling routine in line as it was a first pass at coding it and then refactored it into reusable functions that made it a lot more maintainable. You should try to use functions it will make it easier to do in the long run.

Hi, very interesting thread. I built my own Arduino Water cooling controller for similar reasons to yours. I had bought a number of of fan/Cooling system controllers over the years and have encountered a number of issues with them including reliability and support for the number of fans I wanted to use on my first water cooling build. If this had been around two years ago I would have been very interested in obtaining one. I have to disagree with enderman, my second PC is also water cooled and managed using the headers on an Asus Crosshair 6 Mobo. I dislike the fact that the fan headers only safely support two fans each and the cpu header is limited in how you can set it up with the secondary CPU headers linked to the primary CPU header. Also although you have fairly good control over the fans using fan curves in a very buggy AI Suite I would prefer having the complete control programming the Arduino gives me, together with a touch screen with my temps on it. I have included a pic of my controller below but basically I just use an Arduino bread board shield plugged into a Mega which is plugged into a LCD shield and LCD. I use PWM though as anything that does voltage control is probably going to generate heat which is one thing I was trying to avoid. I also have to say it was fun building it myself and quite the challenge learning electronics to do it. Good luck with this project.

Yes he is on Intel's Website but I don't see him promoting one product over another he basically says hes made informing people fun... Which is true. Now Luke on the other hand hes a Shill...

Just a heads up all the D5's I have seen the back can be pulled off the pump which should allow you to access the speed controller. I have also encountered the frustration with these pwm pumps when trying to test fill the loop. Sounds like theres a market for a signal generator to send the pwm signal for the pumps for bleeding. This could be done with an arduino.

Hi All, I started watercooling my PC 5 years ago, That PC is still running tho I have swapped out my CPU and Added a second Video Card. I watched all of JayzTwoCents videos on water cooling and also Bitwits and Linuses. My first go was soft tube with cpu, Mobo and Video card. It worked well but I used a milky white coolant that turned blue green from algae and required regular cleaning and tube replacement. My second go did much better using EK's fluid which has worked well for me even with leaks. I lost a DVD burner due to a crappy XSPC bay reservoir (They recalled for a different leaking problem) having its light fitting break. I would recommend doing soft tube first getting comfortable with whipping something together over a weekend. I bought a bunch of cheap components just for testing hardware in my bench that make it very easy. If you are going to do hard line it is a significant investment in time and planning however the end result is usually fantastic looking and personally due to the planning side I have found maintenance after the fact to be easier. On my main rig I have a plug at the bottom of the loop and can drain the thing in minutes and due to the design can fill it up in an hour including bleeding the loop. Just be aware you will spend all your money on it.

I have the same case and just mounted the radiator in that location... key point I only put in 4 screws to hold the radiator in place two at the top and two at the bottom so radiator on inside of case and four screws to hold then fans on the inside 8 screws to hold them.