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sjain

Member
  • Content Count

    58
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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About sjain

  • Title
    Member
  • Birthday Jun 25, 1991

Contact Methods

  • Steam
    http://steamcommunity.com/id/sjain
  • Twitch.tv
    https://www.twitch.tv/sjain_guides

Profile Information

  • Location
    United Kingdom
  • Gender
    Male

System

  • CPU
    i7 5820K @ 4.1Ghz
  • Motherboard
    Asus X99-A
  • RAM
    Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (4x4GB)
  • GPU
    Zotac GTX 980Ti AMP! 2-way SLI
  • Case
    Corsair 780T
  • Storage
    Kingston HyperX Savage 480GB
  • PSU
    Corsair RM1000
  • Display(s)
    AOC AG241QX 23.8" 2560x1440 144 Hz
  • Cooling
    Corsair H100i GTX
  • Keyboard
    Razer Blackwidow Tournament Edition - Non backlit + MCSaite Wi​reless USB​ Numeric K​eypad
  • Mouse
    Zowie S2
  • Sound
    Kingston HyperX Cloud II
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Enterprise 64-Bit
  • PCPartPicker URL
  1. Thanks for your suggestions. I even turned off the compatbility filter while searching CPUs, but completely missed the 11th gen CPUs, had no idea it was the same price. As for memory, I actually changed to Corsair 2x8GB after accidentally selecting this, but didn't update the URL, but your suggestion is still great cause I didn't realise how the speed made it more expensive for only a tiny jump. As for motherboard, thanks for that, I missed that the ASUS only supports 10th gen, but the ASRock 10th and 11th gen - no brainer pick. Actually ther
  2. Budget (including currency): Around £400-600 GBP Country: United Kingdom Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Office work only, zero gaming. Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/fBFTcT what do you think of this as a office PC for my parents? the aim is quietness, small footprint, upgradeability/repairability (i can use old drives etc), and lasting many year
  3. Hehe, yeah ^w^ I pride on that so much and take care of it, since I got it in November 2015 I've only upgraded storage. Still does 1440p90fps on GTA 5 maxed out, low temps too (GTA5: CPU around 50-60C, GPUs 70-75C and 60-65C, but high usage), I aim to not upgrade for another 5-6 years atleast since i still play mostly the same games. I want it to last forever Cool. That makes sense I guess, I more meant even that too - as long as its replaceable in some way. Some other ones dont let you at all period and void warranties from what ive seen in reviews. I just like it to be repaira
  4. Hey I'm living in the UK, using this PC: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/TW2y2V draws around 700W . I am looking to buy a UPS. I am completely noob in electrics and UPS, so not sure what to look out for. I'm looking for something around 100-200 quid price range that also has electricity filtering / voltage regulation stuff as well as user replaceable batteries, repairability. I heard APC is a great brand and even replaces stuff affected free of charge if it fails with the UPS, up to a high amount or something. But the ones on amazon ive seen have non replaceable batteries
  5. So a few days ago I changed the password for my main google account. Everything on web desktop works fine, however on my phone, if I launch a google app, the "Checking info" UI with a loadingthing appears then disappears in a split second, then the app crashes, often taking my whole phone with it. Be it Drive, Google Play, Photos even Settings! When I go into Settings > Accounts > Click on my Google Account, the options Sign-in & security, Personal info & privacy and Account Preferences are MISSING. If I click on Account Sync, it says Sync is currently exp
  6. Thanks btw, if you are willing to waste more time on my persistent soul, now it loses drivers randomly...
  7. I previously posted these two threads; - https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/1006162-very-weird-driver-issues-with-windows-7/ - https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/1004634-how-do-i-dual-boot-windows-10-and-7-on-completely-separate-drives-in-2018/ when attempting to dual boot Windows 10 1809 and Windows 7. I then solved all of these issues. However, one issue remains. Currently I use the BIOS to boot of the two "Windows Boot Manager"s of Windows 10 and 7, to boot into whichever OS I want to. I don't use the boot OS
  8. Update: it didn't stick. Today, out of nowhere, windows failed to load all drivers except the display ones. No mouse, no keyboard, no internet, nothing. It's seemingly random. Any ideas? Edit: fixed simply by booting into safe mode then back out again. But it will happen again because this "fixed" it last time. What is this?
  9. Don't know if it's something bad I've done in life, but it took me a THIRD clean ddu install of my graphics drivers (I unchecked all 3d stuff, and the Nvidia audio driver) and it's ok now it works as intended One thing, I just hope that mouse issue goes away by itself. Thanks for your help and rapid replies regardless. Much appreciated! im gonna mark it solved for now might reopen it if it happens again. Also, I tried booting into my main os on my other SSD (windows 10 1809 fast boot and hibernation fully disabled) and then back into my windows
  10. 1. I said, I would state if I had an active overclock, if I was overclocking. Any suggestions then?
  11. All three of these are incorrect 1. I don't overclock, I would have stated that in the post 2. I just checked all of my drives, all ok 3. Read the post
  12. https://youtu.be/d8wz1zwk20Y Basically, when I booted, the above video happens. The login screen and welcome screen did not appear at all, but I could boot in and login and use the os This started happening completely out of the blue. I made no changes to the system at all. Then, on a third reboot, a serious issue happened, where all drivers were missing. Here is what happened: 1. I log in, and the login screen and welcome screen appear as normal 2. When I see the desktop, the notification tray icon has a big red cross, which is what
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