Dater

I already used DDU and the stock amd driver removal, would rolling back be worth it? Also I might buy a new ssd lol danke sir

I had noticed that my PC was getting slower over time (one year ago) but I thought it could be the drives, so I ignored it. I bought all components in 2017, except for a GPU/CPU/MoBo replacement 2 years ago. The problems I have right now are: -My screen often blacks out, and when it comes back this message appears (attached ss), this especially happens when I'm video-editing (often, but can also happen during light use) or gaming, the latter mostly makes the PC crash, but it's not that often. -Games appear to run at normal fps, according to the Steam fps counter, but they definitely stutter and feel slow. -PC is taking 30-40s to boot, and windows is on a SSD, used to boot up in 5-10s. -WMI Provider Host is always on high/very high power usage, high/very high CPU usage and moderate/lower GPU usage. -When playing heavier games like any AAA it sometimes crashes completely, and after reboot it'll behave normally. I ran the chkdsk C: /F /R command to check integrity of both my drives (SSD/HDD) and they seem fine. System: -EVGA 430W 80 Plus -I5 9400F -MSI RX 580 8GB -Gigabyte B360M DS3H -16 GB DDR4 ram (HyperX) -Seagate Barracuda 6GB/s 64mb 1tb HDD -Adata 240GB SSD BIOS and drivers are up to date. I also ran several malware tests. If I had to guess I'd say it's the drives, but that AMD timeout message is weird, is there any way to check my GPU health to see if it's performing optimally without stressing the drives too much?. Also I don't believe the PSU is a problem, as my PC has been running fine (even during heavy loads) for 2 years, I could be wrong about any of this fo sure. Thanks in advance!

How about the Shure SRH1440? The thing with the HD 579 is the bass, I feel like it makes the whole experience dark and quite muddy

An aux cable will do fine and it's going to be the cheapest (as far as I'm concerned, audio quality won't be affected at all), you can either connect it to the monitor (green output) or the motherboard (the middle green port); most of the times, the motherboard will have better sound processing than the monitors, so you should connect it there. Also, if your pc case doesn't have an aux port at the front, you can buy a jack splitter so you can also connect headphones and stuff without having to unplug the soundbar. Both cables will cost about 3-5 bucks on Amazon.

The reason it must be these is because of pricing over here. So, here they are: -Monoprice Monolith M565 -Audio Technica ATH-M60x - '' '' ATH-M50x -Sennheiser HD 599 -Sennheiser Momentum 2 -Beyerdynamic Dt 880 (32 Ohm) And for extra info, I'm currently using the Sennheiser's HD 579, so which ones will improve my overall experience the most? I'm open for some other recommendations but I'll have to check them prices first. Thanks in advance! : D

I've understood that DVD+R means that you can only save files once, but this case's got a little RW logo

It's the gigabyte one, the B360M DS3H, I guess I'll just have to have some faith, otherwise I'll just ask for an 8th Gen one. Thanks a lot

Oh no, ryzen cpus are expensive af, here in Mexico, it's really a shame, as it's way cheaper over there

According to my exhaustive research (3 min) it will work with the B360M, buut, can I just slam that b*tch in there? Or do I need an 8th Gen cpu to update the bios, that would be a problem, as I'm upgrading from the i3 6100

And if so, how can I update the bios?

It's an old Altec tweeter that sounds amazing. Model is 811B horn. Broken side VS normal one

It's a samsung TV (2010), and I've got an RX 580. I disabled Hardware acceleration on Chrome and it fixed the issues there, but Popcorn Time is still failing. All drivers are up to date

Done, but it keeps happening

Nope, it's just one cable

It's really just what the title says, so I'll attach some screenshots (It´s not a chrome problem, as the second screenshot is from Popcorn Time)