n0mahd

I think you should go the extensions route. There's DIY kits that literally have you plug in the wires. Personally tried sleeving myself. The tool to just get molex pins out cost 25 dollars alone. Then there's sleeving, lighters, heat shrink. And, the most expensive thing is time. Plus those molex connectors hurt to hold. Please don't dip or paint your wires. I love plastidip too but I don't think it'll work.

If everything is copper and you're grabbing an acetal block that you can't see through I'd go grab a copper one. But there's nothing wrong with the nickel blocks, mainly for bling though. Just don't use silver and nickel together. It wouldn't hurt to buy a clear coolant though just for peace of mind against corrosion or growth.

I paid like $200 for my 240GB drive a few years ago. Worth it.

This probably won't make it to market. I'm no engineering expert or anything. However, I know that this is an expensive thing to make. Due to the cost of materials.. and what they would have to go through in manufacturing. Also, the low demand. Google.. silverstone pumpless aio. It uses low boiling point liquid.

I've had 4 AIOs. A Coolit domino, h50, h100, and h110. The only cooler that failed was the domino because the pump failed.(four years old) And the water boiled inside causing a rupture. Luckily out didn't kill anything. My h50 seems to have problems when mounted differently (5 years old). My h100 has this weird annoying pump rattle sound so I soldered some diodes and lowered the volts (3 years old) AIOs are generally safe. But there's really no way to know if you're going to have a failure until it happens. They're not the most quiet things on the planet. The fans that come with then aren't super quiet. If you aren't overclocking. And want a nice query cool system with a great cooler.. noctua is always a good choice.. I'll guarantee you'll have no problems with an nh-u12.

Not worried at all. You guys deserve your days off.

The two common sizes are 3/8in ID x 5/8 OD and 1/2in ID x 3/4 OD. Get PrimoChill Adv LRT tubing. 3/8 ID x 5/8 OD has the advantage of having the best bend radius and isn't prone to kinking. This is probably the easiest to use. 1/2 ID x 3/4 OD just looks really baller. Maybe a degree better performance but it doesn't matter. You might get some compatibility issues due to the sizes of the fittings but you most likely won't these days.

Yes, that one. I have a bit of dirt build up in the reservoir. I'll open it to clean one of these days. I'd like an extra o-ring for peace of mind. My fault for not flushing the radiator enough. I emailed support and Peter replied about a quote. I've sent a reply with my address. I haven't got a reply yet.

My problem is that I can't find it. Anywhere, I'm looking on EK's site and etc.

Hey everyone! I cannot for the life of me figure out which O-ring fits the EK-DBAY res - This one in particular... Anyone know? http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-dbay-d5-pwm-incl-pump.html Also, does anyone know the allen key size for something like this? Side note: I'm planning to do a flush of my entire system. I've had some bad luck with O-rings. I'd like some spares.

Not sure about the PSU requirements. Haven't been looking at reviews and charts. However, I'm certain you can run a GTX 970. The VRAM issue isn't that big. Any game I played at 1080p was fine. However, I upgraded to a GTX 980 and it is MASSIVE OVERKILL. The only game I couldn't max out was ARK and that's because the optimization is weird. The biggest question is what's the price difference between a 970 and 980 in your country? Also, what games are you playing?

It's not worth it. You won't get a noticeable gain. The only difference between those is hyperthreading which does nothing for gaming.

I have one too with zero coil whine.

I have a friend who's looking for a budget gaming laptop. Get this or wait for black friday deals?

I just might get the tj11 or if there's no ft06. Mrs. Nomad wants my old ft02.