Arttu89

Yes the HDD will retain all the data, although you might want to consider reinstalling the OS if it's a new build also if you had a pre-built system the Windows copy would have most likely been an OEM version and after pairing that drive with a new motherboard it'll likely show that your copy of Windows requires activation and you'll need a new Windows key to get that message to go away.

What he means is that when the system in the AIO is running it might be disabling the "HDMI in" port on the back of the unit and allowing input only from the system. Some AIO don't allow external input to the monitor when the system runs, it's something that you would have to physically check yourself or look for someone who has that same AIO and have them check it for you, manufacturers rarely clearly state on the product page if what you want to do is possible with a given AIO as it's not really a very common use case. If that is the case the only way to have the eGPU run the built in monitor is to have the thunderbolt connection send the data both ways, firstly from the system to the eGPU and then back through the same thunderbolt connection to the motherboard to be displayed on the monitor, so the same way as it works on laptops.

You wouldn't have any problems running any other lga1151 processors from the same or previous generation (i.e 7400t or even a desktop grade 7700/7700k given that the motherboard can provide enough power for those to run without crashing), that said running anything from 8th gen would not be possible, at least not easily. It's not HP spec that doesn't support it, it's Intels. All 100 and 200 series chipsets don't support 8th gen processors even though they have the same socket, Intel claims they're not electrically compatible (the pinout of the socket is not exactlly the same).

Like Slottr said. Build something in a small form factor an all-in-one will be a bit of a waste of money, especially if you want to play in 4k and unlike an aio it actually allows some kind of future proofing - you can open the case, fairly easily replace parts and sell the old ones, while an aio might only allow for a little bit of modification in the future.

If you shop around you might find it a couple euro cheaper, but it probably won't be enough to offset delivery charges.

There's a couple of options on amazon, your best bet is probably just look through the opinions on diffrent clamps there. Here's 2 more budget options: https://www.amazon.co.uk/1home-Triple-Computer-Monitor-Bracket/dp/B01MZ70QA8/ref=sr_1_9?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1545928240&sr=1-9&keywords=triple+monitor+stand - slightly simpler arm design hard to say if you'll be able to get the angles you want on it https://www.amazon.co.uk/Adjustable-Monitor-34cm-69cm-Rotation-MD6463/dp/B01LPVM5IC/ref=sr_1_8?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1545928240&sr=1-8&keywords=triple+monitor+stand - this one will probably be easier to get those angles due to the double articulated extensions And what looks like a more premium option: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Duronic-DM553-Monitor-Bracket-Warranty/dp/B00HZ0JJGE/ref=sr_1_14?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1545928240&sr=1-14&keywords=triple+monitor+stand - it looks like it should hit all the angles and it has easy height adjustment thanks to the spring arms All 3 seem to have plenty of good reviews. Just make sure you have enough space for the clamp and keep in mind not all desks fair well with that kind of weight attached with a C clamp so it's difficult to say how much wobble you're going to have. Personally I'd probably go with an ultrawide instead of 3 monitors... if only I had the space on my desk. ?

Should be absolutely fine for your regular backups.

It should install whatever you tell it to install, might just prompt you that you're trying to install an older version and ask if you're sure. With regards to bricking, the chances for that are the same regardless of whether you're doing an upgrade or a downgrade, given you said you did 2-3 bios updates so far and didn't mention having problems doing them I believe you'll manage just fine, but the risk is always there. Also if the older version works fine, you might just want to stick with instead of trying to make the new version work.

The most likely thing to mess with the turbo clocks would be the bios. If possible I'd try to revert to the original bios version you had when you started using your motherboard just for the purpose of testing and comparing the bios settings. MSI has all the diffrent bios versions available on the support site for that motherboard. If an older bios fixes it then write down all the settings, install the newer version and check it's all set the same.

Not quite sure what you have in mind by dual input headphones, do you want to have them hooked to both the PS4 and your phone at the same time?

Do you not have a hdmi connector on the monitor or do you not have a spare hdmi cable? If it's the latter borrow one from the TV if possible.

I can't tell from the pictures you uploaded, but if your monitor has an hdmi connection, I would try using that for cross reference. Maybe the VGA cable or one of the VGA ports is dead. Also make sure to chose the correct input source in your monitors menu, not all monitors can find the input source automatically.

For gaming alone I would say no, the onboard sound of your motherboard is plenty enough. If you have some small audiophile urges, then you can invest in an external DAC instead of a sound card, but I won't be able to give you much advice on those as I didn't have a chance to try out enough of them to be able to point you to a good one.

You've got nothing to worry about, like others said the voltage is close enough that it won't cause any issues with your laptop, aside of it charging and performing a little bit slower on a daily basis as you noticed, but it'll work the same as before once you get the right charger connected.

Given he's building a mainstream system, if he keeps to sticks with the same speed/timings and same amount of memory, any performance diffrence between single channel and dual channel would be fairly insignificant.

The parts you chose look fine, it should all work together without problems and yes it will allow for some overclocking in the future, although you might want to think about getting a 3rd party CPU cooler once you get around to it. The only things I'd suggest as long it's within your budget: 1) I assume you're using the SSD as a system drive if it was my system I'd go with a 240-250ish GB Model instead of a 120GB, it'll give you more space to keep anything you use more often on the faster solid state drive (whether it'll be a game or two and any programs you might use on a daily basis that can possibly benefit from being on an SSD) 2) I don't know what you plan on using the PC for as you didn't mention it, but 8GB of RAM is not a lot with current games, even Chrome can eat that up if you open too many tabs so, instead of going with 2x 4GB of RAM, I'd go with 2x 8GB or if that takes you over the budget then go with just 1 8GB stick for now and buy the 2nd one when you have the funds. Using 8GB sticks leaves you just a little bit more potential for some small future upgrades. - Also the single 8GB stick of the Kingston RAM you chose is 4 quid cheaper than the 2x 4GB.

Hey, I would say it really depends on what outcome you actually want to achieve, but getting fully spillproof won't really be possible, unless it's been designed and manufactured with it in mind. The main issue is, while you might be able to get some conformal coating and applying it to the keyboard PCB to make most of the contacts on it secured, every single switch on the keyboard is constructed from a few separate parts and unless it's been designed with some level of water/liquid ingress resistance then you will struggle to add that resistance to it on your own without accidently affecting how the switch works. One other thing to keep in mind, if you're worried about spills then you also have to remember that you need some way for liquid to drain through, like drain holes on the bottom of the keyboard, so that it dosn't gather up inside. So in short, I would advise against trying this, there's a lot of keys on a keyboard = a lot of chances to screw something up.

I don't think you understood what he meant. From what you wrote it dosn't look like the game is ignoring the GPU settings, there's something in the game that causes high load on the CPU, if the CPU is pinned close to 100% all the time it's uncapable to proccess the data that the GPU requires from it fast enough, ergo your graphics issues and lower load on the GPU. Your issue is not the graphic settings (unless you set them up too high) it's something about the game putting heavy load on the CPU. Since it's an online game it may be related to the antihack solution they're running, I've experienced similar problems in the past, where a poorly implemented antihack was pinning the CPU randomly in a game that on it's own didn't require much CPU power. One other thing you can try, if you're running an antivirus disable it before you run the game and see if anything changes, some particular game and antivirus combos have a tendency to "react" with each other and cause problems. Aside of that only the game devs would be able to find the issue if they'd be willing to troubleshoot it.

There's very little you can upgrade in that laptop and to be absolutely honest the things you can upgrade won't make a huge diffrence for gaming, if any at all.

Do you have any friends nearby who got a ryzen CPU/motherboard, so you can take your PC to their place and try swapping parts in or a computer shop that can test it for you? Just by the description of the problem it's difficult to tell what might be causing the issues without seeing it and/or swapping parts in.

Are you sure all the pins on the CPU are ok? You shouldn't have to push down on the cooler to get the screws in.

It really comes down to the quality of the components on the strip and how tight together are the LEDs packed (i.e. some strips have 30LEDs per meter some have 60, double the LEDs roughly doubles the power draw which halves the max length). The 2m limit is probably just a safe length Asus decided on after testing it with diffrent available strips, I wouldn't be surprised if you could go quite a bit over 2m with a good quality strip without loosing brightness, but it's difficult to say for sure without buying a bunch of strips from diffrent companies and testing who used the best LEDs. At 2.5m my best guess is you might loose some brightness, but it should work, but it's only a guess assuming it's not a higher LED count strip.

Yes and no. As far as I know Aura supports up to 2m compatible strips (if you go over 2m you might start loosing brightness, to the point where the strip stops working), so full 5m is a no go. Another thing you have to keep in mind is whether you or someone else might accidently move the PC and rip the cable out, the 4-pin aura header will get damaged easily if someone forgets about diconnecting the cable.

Hey, a quick search on google came up with this thread on reddit: I'm not a 100% sure why this would work, but my best guess would be that changing that setting might change the color space the TV is expecting from a given input port (if it dosn't detect it correctly on it's own). It might not work, but it's worth a shot.

My bad, I didn't check the spec on the monitor inputs, you're right.