PSUGuru

Oh no... what ever will the porn watchers do? *Uses VPN*

Nothing wrong. 2018 RMx is simply newer.

Corsair CX450 (2017) Corsair RMx (2018) BitFenix Formula Gold Bitfenix Whisper M Seasonic Focus Gold and Gold Plus Antec EarthWatts Gold Pro EVGA G2 and G3

The RMs are older, but they're still pretty good. If you're talking about the RMx 2018, then definitely. Excellent unit. The new Antec Earthwatts is literally a Seasonic FOCUS, so it's pretty good. If it's RM vs Antec, nothing wrong with either, but I'd get the newer unit: The Antec.

The Toughpower Grand RGB is okay. Poorly priced, however. MWE Gold isn't bad, either. But there are better options. I'm not going to quote the tier list, I'll give you a tiny list of PSUs I recommend. EVGA G2 - G3 is smaller, but this is arguably an overall better unit over the G3. EVGA G3 - Don't worry about the users reeing over the protections. They're set high (and low in some cases), but they work. Corsair RMx 2018 - This and the Whisper M and Formula gold are the best mid-ranged units. Corsair CX450 - If you don't want to spend much, it's very well built for the price. BitFenix Formula Gold - Basically a Whisper M, but it's non-modular BitFenix Whisper M - Excellent all around.

The SeaSonic M12II is truly a garbage PSU. You say you have an EVGA bronze, but there are two models that immediately come to mind. The W1 and B1. Both aren't great. If you're aiming to get a new power supply, I would certainly go for a CX450. It's an excellent unit for 45$. I would trust a CX450 with higher end modern components, like Ryzen 5 with even up to a 1070, so it'll certainly handle any R9 card. If you want to keep a PSU for a long while and are willing to spend more, then you have a few more options: BitFenix Formula Gold BitFenix Whisper M EVGA G2 or EVGA G3 Corsair RMx 2018 To answer the wattage question, 600w is certainly not needed. I doubt your system will draw more than 350 watts under load. So a 450-550w unit will be just fine. To add more detail, don't dwell on efficiency or brand. They are not determining factors for PSU quality and performance. Most modern PSUs meet ATX spec in most or all ways, so it's more important to look at build quality (in my opinion). The PSUs I mentioned above meet ATX specification, have working protections (People will ree over the G3's protections being high, but they still work), and are built well.

Both the HX and RMx platforms are near godlike. Only a few power supplies out there that can compete with them.

Prime Ultra.

The G2 fails hold up times test (Which can be mitigated through a UPS) and although I haven't confirmed it, it supposedly lacks OTP. The G3 performance wise is excellent. But its OPP is set about the recommended 125% mark and has a high OTP trigger point. But, this is common is semi-passive/hybrid units. Many on this site will recommend against the PSU just for that, despite the real work implications not being as drastic as it seems nor is the chance of someone overloading this unit. Alternatively, you could go for the BitFenix Whisper M or the Corsair RMx. Both are solid units.

Hopefully so. Maybe ASUS did some other tweaks, but that’s assuring it’s based on a modern seasonic platform. This PSU is going to cost a premium that’s for sure.

Thermalright Macho Rev.b or the Scythe Mugen 5. Both perform like a Noctua NH-D15, but they're only 50$.

The PSU itself looks really damn good, but I will wait for a proper review of the unit. If the unit isn't perfect, I don't want it.

Release the genophage! /s

The M12II/S12II is a poor choice in PSU and is not suited for modern builds. It lacks OTP and OCP protection, it doesn't support C6/C7 power states, and it is group regulated which means during crossload the 5V rail or the 12V rail could get quite ugly or even go out of spec. Plus its known to be a loud PSU. It was a decent PSU choice in 2010 but it days have long passed. At $59 it is beyond overpriced. That is like asking $200 for a GT 1030. It is group regulated which means that it can't out put its full power on the 12V rail and the 12V/5V rail uses one coil and when the load isn't balance e.g high load on one and low on the other aka crossload it has a very hard time regulating voltage which means that voltage regulation on the 12V and 5V can get ugly or even out spec if you push the PSU hard enough.

Fan definitely kicks. It blows a lot of air. It gets to the point where it struggles to idle then eventually it stalls out unless gas is applied.

Forgot to note: The thermostat was replaced last year. So I don't think that would be the issue?

Since there's bound to be someone who knows their stuff, I could use a little help. My truck is a 1993 Toyota Pickup DLX with a 4 cylinder 22re engine. It's fuel injected. It overheats while it idles when it's warm or hot outside. When the motor gets hot, it starts to idle very rough, like it's struggling to maintain its idle. I have no idea what RPM it sits at because these trucks don't come with a tachometer. The truck has a brand new water pump, new belts, fan works, has plenty of coolant in the system and has oil. I think it's the radiator that's the issue. But I want to be sure I am not missing anything. I can easily replace the radiator, that's not hard to do. I just want to know if anything could cause this.

Don't use bottlenecking websites they are based solely on bullshit. Bottlenecking is not a yes or no thing. It's 100% situational.

I might as well say my vehicle here xP I own a classic 1993 Toyota Pickup DLX. Inline 4 engine that probably by now produce about 100 horsepower. Before I bought the truck for 1500$, it was in bad shape. I've put a lot of money in repairs in this thing and I have a lot more to go. I actually plan to restore the vehicle. Here's what I've done so far: Replaced the entire steering assembly (Power steering pump, inner and outer tie rods, centerlink, steering damper, idler arm and pitman arm) Replaced the whole A/C system. (Got that replace for 700$ which is great considering everyone else wanted 1000$) Replaced the water pump, belts and thermostat Shock replacement Brand new rotors and ceramic brake pads (front) But the truck has several major repairs I still need to do. I need to replace the radiator. I am pretty sure it's the cause of the overheating while idling. The fan works fine. I also need to replace the oil pan gasket. Not an easy job considering a cross member and the steering damper is in the way. Plus realignment after the fact. After the gasket is finally replaced, I plan to switch to synthetic oil. Lastly, grease is leaking into the rear drum brake. So I need to replace the axel seal and bearing. Since the shoes are saturated with grease, I'll need to replace the shoes. Since we're replacing the shoes I might as well replace the hardware and drum. I am doing this on both sides. Easily the most expensive job out of the three. Repairs aside, there are some things I want to buy for the truck. I'll replace the air intake with a cold air intake. It won't do much, considering the engine was built for reliability, not for performance, but I'll take what I can get. Then I plan to replace the tiny-ass exhaust system on it. Give it a larger diameter system. Not too much bigger, that may negatively impact things. I basically plan to replace everything in the engine bay. I'll keep the block, though. I'll just have it cleaned and machined. After that, there's a lot of damage to the body panels. Replace all of it and give the truck a nice expensive paint job. Replace the rims, maybe lift the truck an inch higher and get slightly bigger tires if I can. Replace the seats. They're pretty worn down. See if I can replace and expand upon the gauges. There's A LOT more I could add to it, but honestly, I don't feel like typing it down. Most people would say, "Just get a new truck" or "That's a waste of money." My response: "No". and I leave it at that :P. I do plan to own another vehicle one of these days. I plan on getting the 2014 Shelby GT500 Mustang V8. That's my dream car right there. Before I restore the truck, I want to get this first. I'll have the mustag in a couple years.

As the others above said, this is flat out false. They're going off of old information. AMD is back in the game with Ryzen and Threadripper. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4RMbYe4X2LI This video here compares against the Kaby Lake I5. It's pretty comparable. But no one buys a kaby lake CPU brand new (usually). Coffee Lake is the latest in Intel CPUs, it outperforms the 1600 notable, but the 2600 closes that gap (mostly). AMD Ryzen is exceptional value. If you're rendering or using programs that like many cores/threads, and/or heavily multitasking, then Ryzen is likely the choice of chip. Your CT's are talking about the old Bulldozer FX lineup. It wasn't really good from the start and it's definitely not good now. Even the new Pentiums trade blows with the FX 9590 "flagship" chip. The FX are great overclockers, but their single core speeds were far behind Intels, making them nonoptimal for gaming. The only advantage AMD had here, was encoding and maybe rendering.

Ryzen chips are very efficient. If you're doing some overclocking, then a Cryorig H7 is the biggest cooler I would get. Any bigger coolers would more or less be a waste.

The stock cooler is fine for normal use, but no CPU is the same. I've heard that some have had their 8400 thermal throttle whilst under 100% load. Any CPU cooler will work, as any CPU cooler (Nowadays) is better than the stock intel cooler. https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3jTmP6/arctic-cooling-cpu-cooler-ucacoap11301bua01 This cooler is dirt cheap and cools better than the stock intel cooler. It's not silent, but it's not as loud the the stock cooler. Alternatively, you could go for something way better. https://pcpartpicker.com/product/LPVBD3/cryorig-cpu-cooler-m9i Much more silent, performs much better and looks a lot better. Killer value for 20$.

A good PSU is designed to deliver its rated wattage under any load 24/7 without fault within its warranty period. The EVGA BQ is simply "Okay". Most PCs don't draw 500 watts even under heavy loads. What is your system specs.? (Note, a I7-8700k with a 1080ti won't even draw 500 watts)

And the Cougar looks a lot nicer as a bonus. ( I like to look at my power supplies. )

The FOCUS has a poor quality fan, but the thing has a 7-10 year warranty, so I don't think that matters too much. If you don't care about warranties, and you know how to do it safely, just replace the PSU fan.