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waterjug

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Earth
  • Biography
    I was born. I didn't die yet.
  • Member title
    resident cool guy

System

  • CPU
    AMD FX-8350
  • Motherboard
    Asus M5A78L-M/USB3
  • RAM
    8GB
  • GPU
    RX 580
  • Case
    CoolerMaster Q300P
  • Storage
    480GB SSD / 2TB HDD
  • PSU
    500w
  • Keyboard
    the corsair light-up one
  • Mouse
    Some wireless one
  • Operating System
    Windows 10

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. No vendetta, but is there actually any real privacy concern? is the battery good? does it run well?
  2. Looking for a macbook-like windows laptop. A windows laptop that will give as close as possible to a macbook experience but runs windows. (most equivalent battery life, build quality, etc) touchscreen would be nice too Thoughts?
  3. what does your ui look like? google rolling out different ui for different users?
  4. I swear I'm not going crazy, I'm trying to make a new shared drive, but it appears google removed the feature? I don't just want to share a folder, but make a "shared drive". Where did this go? I can find anything online referencing the feature being removed. my google drive: from google images: someone look at their google drive and tell me it's not just me
  5. My laptop started making a horrible clicking noise when the fans kick in, even on low, which is most of the time when I do anything. On the inside of my computer there are 2 fans connected to one heatsink for the combo cpu/gpu. Only one of the fans is making the horrible sound. I don't know how to fix the noise from the fan, and replacing it would mean replacing the whole heatsink. So I just internally unplugged the fan making the noise. In theory, during normal tasks, the functional fan would run twice as fast, which still much quieter than the broken fan. Is this gonna work fine? any laptop engineers to tell me why this is the worst idea? otherwise I'm sticking with it for now, it's an older laptop anyway.
  6. Asking for star ratings again apparently i did rate 5 stars btw Thoughts on re-implementing actual star ratings now that the dislike is gone?
  7. I think you're really overcomplicating things by making it have to go thru the streamdeck. There's plenty of remote control lights out there, why can't the remote sit next to the streamdeck?
  8. you sure the nvidia one isn't measuring ur gpu?
  9. This is a very specific issue but I hope this helps someone. Problem: TV turns on, displays flash screen with logo, then turns off, and a few seconds later the red power light turns off, then TV won't turn back on. Solution: If your TV does as stated above, especially if there is a rattling noise when you tilt the TV, or if there are uneven backlight splotches on the splash screen you get a glimpse of, the problem is the LEDs have either failed or are broken. It's not the firmware as other forums have stated, and I initially thought. However, just to be on the safe side now that I've fixed it, I'm not using the built-in smart features, instead using a FireStick, in the off chance a firmware update does brick the TV. The fix will cost a bit of money and take a bit of time, and the repair isn't the easiest. It will be at a 2-man job at some parts to remove the delicate panel due to the large size of it. Results aren't gaurenteed. How to fix: Replacement parts will run you about $60: https://www.shopjimmy.com/toshiba-4708-k55wdr-a1213k21-4708-k55wdr-a1213k31-a-type-b-type-led-backlight-strips-12/ Tools needed: -Standard Philips screwdriver -Mini Philips screwdriver for inner parts (not exactly sure which size) -Plyers -Pry tool (credit card or butterknife works) -Large flat surface 1. Put TV on back on flat surface. Remove feet and back panel. Screws are indicated by small arrows 2. Flip TV. Unscrew Bezel from bottom. Also indicated by small arrows. BE SURE TO ENSURE ALL HIDDEN SCREWS ARE UNDONE BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO REMOVE SO NOTHING IS BROKEN. 3. Remove screws surrounding screen 4. Unplug panel controllers from board, unscrew panel controllers from metal. Make sure the long circuit boards are above the metal before you remove the screen. BE CAREFUL OF SMALL PIECES OF WARRANTY TAPE ON LONG CIRCUT BOARD, CUT THEM SO YOU DON'T ACCIDENTALLY BREAK IT WHEN REMOVING IT. THE RIBBONS ARE DELICATE. 4. CAREFULLY lift screen from place. Lay on flat surface. (2 MAN JOB) The long black plastic pieces aren't connected to anything once unscrewed. ENSURE PANEL BENDS AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE. 5. Plastic light filter layers can be removed. 6. White cardstock needs to be removed, there are a lot of screws. 7. Finally, you are at the LEDs. Plug in the TV to see which ones aren't working. 8. Replace the strip if a LED doesn't work on it. If you bought a full set, replace them all while you're in there. Each LED strip has some screws and a plug. Make sure to take note of which screws you un-did. Be sure to plug in the TV when done replacing and make sure all the leds stay on and not turn off. If they don't turn off immediately when you plug them in, CONGRATUALTIONS, you fixed it. Now time to not fuck up the rest. 9. Put everything back in reverse order it came off. BE EXRTREMELY CAREFUL WHEN PLACING PANEL BACK INTO PLACE, AND DON'T OVERTIGHTEN THE BEZEL. THIS IS HOW THIS REPAIR MOST OFTEN FAILS. MOST IMPORTANLY, BE CAREFUL, PARTS ARE DELICATE, DON'T FORCE ANYTHING Once re-assembled, the TV should be working. If you have the time, feel comfortable enough with doing it, and would rather pay $60 and do this than buy a new TV for a few hundred, here you go.
  10. Also if you just install windows without a key, there's a glitch you can do to make the "activate windows" disappear permanently. forgot how, my friend showed me.
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