theninjaseal

yep MX blues and razer greens sound and feel very similar.

OBS here is just implementing the very popular x264 encoder. For an exhaustive list of what each setting does and what custom arguments you can put in, search for a guide to x264 encoding or ffmpeg. Keep in mind the three-way balance going on - IO, CPU time, and quality. If you're thrashing your hard disk trying to write the file then it doesn't matter how fast your CPU is - that's your bottleneck. That said here are my settings that work very well for me on my modest 2500k at 4.75ghz. Keep in mind I think half of these are the defaults. Streaming : 5000, x264, veryfast Recording: Indistinguishable quality large file size, mkv, Hardware (NVENC) Usually that results in a video with much higher bitrate then it really needs, so I run it back through Handbrake to bring down the file size. How much I squish it depends on the video.

Hey guys! In the olden days, NVIDIA Control Panel had a section where you could move a display up/down/left/right with little arrows to make sure it fit on the screen. I'm trying to figure out how to do that now that the options have changed. Right now my TV (fourth monitor; HDMI) is up above my other three. The bottom is blocked by the lower monitors. Total first world problem, I know. I want to block off the lower section so that only the visible portion is shown to the OS. I was able to make some progress by creating a custom resolution in NVIDIA Control Panel, but that centers the image. I would really like to be able to use the top of the screen, and only have a black bar on the bottom. The aforementioned arrows have been replaced with the 'desktop resize' utility, which only does scaling - no planar movement. So is there a way I'm missing to move the image to the top of the display? Can you do that inside NVIDIA Control Panel or from Windows at all? I don't have the TV's remote so my options with the OSD are limited. Side note: it really, really irks me that manufacturers make some options available only from the OEM remote. Seriously, guys, really? Anyways I'm open to third party solutions as long as Windows can't tell the difference. But I'm not really keen on loading up some drivers from 2010 to get the feature back - I like some of the new ones they've added since then GTX970 / Windows 10 Pro

Heat will transfer way faster as the temperature difference rises, so letting it run a little bit hotter might actually allow you to pull the fans back quite a bit. That said you can also turn the power limit UP (hear me out) and also make the fan curve more aggressive. The fan gets power priority based on temperature, so that extra power won't be turned into heat if your fans are set to max. That saaaiiiidddd, I have a 970 too and modded the BIOS to up the power limit. I'm able to pull I think about 220W without any thermal issues but I'm not sure on the exact number. GPU-Z can tell you the perfcap is pwr and give a %TDP, but where can you actually go to see actual power draw for a graphics card?

another vote for 'you want a TV'

I'm not seeing any real difference in the pixel brightness but if this is a lower dpi screen than you're used to, you might actually be seeing the edges of the pixel rows since they won't emit any light. Could be a monitor that isn't as densely packed as others, so those edges are more noticable.

then it's not the temps causing the crashes. There are lots of things the computer is doing in the 30 seconds before and after a match. These things are different from what's happening when you're in the match. If the computer is overheating, it won't change anything (besides throttling) until it turns completely off. It goes 'poof', monitor turns black and you go "oh my god did it just let out the magic smoke?" If Overwatch is crashing that's not a thermal issue. Could be a problem loading game files. This would hit you just before a match starts. Could be a problem with CPU ramping up/down and the voltage not matching, but that would cause a blue screen. Could be a problem with drivers. Have you uninstalled and reinstalled the game yet?

I kinda disagree with the sentiment that online computer science courses aren't taken as seriously... Shouldn't computer science be one of those things you can most certainly learn online? I'm taking online CS courses and I really like it, so take those words with a salty morsel at your discretion. OP I think these guys are totally right. Lynda, Coursera, and general google-fu are all great choices. There are also some extensive youtube tutorials that may cover what you're after, and of course I want to reaffirm that distance learning is a great option if you can find a reputable online university to enroll in.

+1 came to say this.

I agree that it isn't optimal and the user would have to remember to turn their speakers off each time they put their headphones on. Wouldn't want them accidentally blasting the Hello Kitty theme song through the house at 2AM. There's also a whole rabbit hole you can go down about the impedance of each device degrading the signal the other one gets, but hey that involves math and my term papers aren't due yet.

I think a Duet would be total overkill for this sort of thing (though I do appreciate expensive taste). I'm sort of assuming here that if OP needed highly accurate sound they would have specified. OP think about something like this https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Adapter-Windows-AU-MMSA/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1525154357&sr=1-3&keywords=sound+card&dpID=51QY728wxCL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch You plug it into a USB port and then plug your headphones into it. It will show up as a separate audio device to Windows, so you can switch between the two with three clicks (I just counted) on the speaker icon right next to the clock in the task bar. I was going to suggest a PCI sound card but then these things popped up on Amazon and I figured for under ten bucks it's a no brainer.

glad to see when things work out. Good hunting!

Do you want to leave both plugged in and change between them using your operating system's audio settings, or do you want sound to come out both?

In that case 200euro with no tax looks a lot more appealing... We still have an online loophole that exempts most online purchases from sales tax

did some google-fu on the prices of the parts in there case - about 90 usd cpu - about 100 usd ram - about 70 usd hdd - about 50 usd dvd drive - about 30 usd monitor - 50 usd plus PSU mobo and cooler So it looks like if you were to buy the same parts yourself you'd spend quite a bit more. I'd call the power supply overkill, but that's good in case you want to swap the CPU and add a GPU in the future. I understand the other guy saying it isn't that powerful, but it looks like great bang for the buck as long as you aren't aiming for epic gaming.