AjKawalski

That was exactly what I was looking for. The one that came with my case has no external power! so odd, anyway thank you!

Hello, I was wondering if anyone knew of a fan splitter that has its own power but takes instructions from a motherboard header. I want to be able to control 6 fans from the CPU header, but the motherboard header can't provide enough power for all those fans. Thank you,

I just bought 16 GB of RAM but it's looking like I'll need 32. If I buy the same ram will I know immediately if they are not going to work together well? I could still return the 16 and just get all new 32, but it would just be a pain. Thank you.

Honestly from the video that Luke did on this I think you are best off just having a single intake and a single out in the back. Any more than that is a waste of money.

I completely get the argument of future proofing but if you want to do that, spend the money where it counts. This RAM should be just as good as what you were looking at for your applications: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820232174 Now I want to be clear when I recommend this CPU I am doing it on the basis that you want to be gaming. If you see yourself doing some hardcore CPU intensive work in the future then you are better off with the 6800k. The 6800k has so many more costs associated with it that you don't seem to care about. The Motherboards are more expensive and it does not come with a heatsink. Buying more than the stock heatsink is really a waste of money for the most part if your not overclocking. Your also paying for the ability to overlock when your not doing it so that is also a waste. However if gaming is your goal, even considering how games are starting to try and use more cpu power this is a much better bet, seeing as you don't want to overclock: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2F84D68843 This is much better. Spend the extra $300 or so you saved on that, including the cheaper motherboard on a much better graphics card.

Sure, assuming your motherboard has 4 ram slots which it should. However this is really quite expensive ram for gaming. You could get something for around $60 and not notice the difference.

While it is technically possible to do so if you are extremely careful about the timings and other factors it is definitely not recommended. A whole host of things can go wrong, the simplest is that the better RAM will be forced to underperform and the worst is just not working at all. In general it is best to just stay with the exact same type in your MOBO. Ok so just the number of 3000 doesn't really mean anything. What matters is how much time it actually takes to process the data. This is a bit of a complicated formula but it is essentially CAS Latency *2000/(RAM TIMING)= Delay in ns. However as others have said the benefits to faster ram are marginal at best. If you really need more ram just buy more of the exact kind you have. If you don't forget about it, its not worth the cost.

Alright so as far as pure performance without considering price goes they are essentially the same. However of course once you consider price the 6800k comes out on top. HOWEVER. If you are just gaming and are not performing heavy workloads in other programs the 6800K is overkill for anything but the most CPU bound games. If you want I could help you find something more reasonable and cheaper, reply to this comment if so. That figure is for non-overclocked ram. Any ram over that is technically being overclocked even if it's just out of the box. This is why you have to set the ram to a higher speed in your BIOS.

Sorry, did my best with a google search, even went through the manual but I have to agree with the other poster, this is a problem for ASUS.

When dragging things between monitors of different resolutions as the other poster said, it can be a real pain. Things scale differently, they don't look right at the boundary, and you can't even get to the other screen at some points. I eventually got so fed up with it I just went and bought an Asus PB277Q. It's a little above your budget but I would seriously consider it.

There are many schools of thought on this, however unless you specifically need an update I would advise against it. There's pretty much nothing to gain and quite a bit to lose if things go south.

I'm just going to throw out a few ideas to make sure you tried all the basic stuff before you buy a new motherboard. First of all, a lot of motherboards use - and + to change the clock and not the arrow keys. This means using shift to hit plus which makes no sense but whatever.. Second, sometimes boards will have some setting hidden in the bios to turn on overclocking and won't let you modify it until you change that setting. Other than that, you got me.

To elaborate on what Numba is saying: Low temperatures do not affect the silicon sub straight negatively at any temp you're going to reasonably get too. HOWEVER. If you get below 0 C you start to have to worry about water vapor. That is why any solution that goes below-feezing point will need all sorts of crazy insulation to make sure no air, and therefore water vapor, can get in.

Not purposefully. My mobo might have done it by default though. Forgive my ignorance but what is AVX offset?

So that's why you wanted voltage numbers was to see the behavior of the voltage, I gotcha, alright I'll have to watch it. Thanks!