Makaseo

I've been using a full-size for a while, but TKL won my favor recently. Excited at the prospect of trying out an even smaller keyboard.

Thought I'd update with some findings: Looked at the SG13's manual, and it seems like a 140mm radiator won't fit the 9.5" GPU after all -- "264mm minus the thickness of the fan and/or radiator" Even assuming the fan wouldn't get in the way, the radiator is 27mm, leaving ~9.3" of clearance for a GPU. Just shy of the 760's 9.5". Shame. Anyway, thanks for the help guys!

Thanks! Yeah I saw this as well, but wasn't sure if they were using a 120mm or 140mm radiator (I'm terrible at eyeballing these). I'm not sure what to make of the mounting holes on that front side, and they didn't list the hardware they used for the review build. Looks like I'm good, then.

I'm trying to move over as much of my current Define R4 rig into an mITX case because I move between home and school several times a year. The SG13 seemed like an awesome option, as it claims support for PS2/ATX PSU's, larger GPU's, and up to a 140mm AIO liquid cooler. Problem is, I can't seem to confirm if it can do all these things at once. Currently I have: - a CX500m, which is the same 140mm length as their recommended shorter-length Strider PSU's - an EVGA ACX 760, which measures 9.5" - and an NZXT X40, which is my main point of worry. - I know I have to buy an mITX motherboard, but I'm trying to limit my purchases to just the case and the mobo. So far I've only seen builds with 120mm radiators and longer graphics cards, or 140mm with shorter or no graphics cards. Can anyone confirm or deny having the SG13 hold up to all these promises simultaneously? If not, I'm open to suggestions of other cases with almost-as-small dimensions. Thanks a bunch, guys.

Weird update: The problem went away on its own. The stuck LED's got dimmer for a couple hours, and now they don't turn on when they're not supposed to. Very strange, but I'm not one to complain.

Yeah, I've tried that as well. Cycled through all the modes and they're still lit up. It's weird, as it's dimmer than the lowest brightness setting but still bright enough to be noticeable.

Thanks, but that was the first thing I tried. Switching cables didn't work, either.

Having a bit of a problem with my Ducky Shine 3 (DK9008). Out of nowhere, several of my backlit keys won't turn off. They're constantly on, no matter what mode I put the keyboard in, at about half the lowest brightness setting. It's just the Z, C, B, >, right Win, right Shift, num0, num2, and num "." keys, as shown here. They keyboard was in reactive mode when I took the picture: Anyone know what might be going on? I discovered the 1.1.8 firmware update but that didn't fix anything. I'd really appreciate any replies. Thanks!

Quickfire Rapids are definitely your best bet.

Yeah, 4.2 should be a good starting place. Hopefully you can hit 4.4 and beyond while keeping good temps. I have an H100 on a 4670k at 4.4, 1.27v stable for almost a year now if that gives you any confidence. I had it at 4.6 for a while but load temps were a bit high for me, but obviously there's that silicon lottery so ymmv.

I'll definitely take a look at the Bitfenix fans, thanks!

Pop filters all do the same thing. The only difference is stuff like how easy it is to break or clean. You really can't go wrong with one. http://www.guitarcenter.com/Nady-Metal-Pop-Filter-109270611-i1134867.gc

Any suggestions?

Please hurry up and finish it fasterrrrrrrr :<

Same thing's happening to my M50's. I'm considering just getting a triple-wide roll of black electrical tape and just covering the underside, but I'm worried it'll make the headphones awfully uncomfortable on my noggin. I might just give up and wait for it to ruin itself, at which point I'd decide it's a good time to buy a new pair.

Managed to convince my friend to snag me one while he was in Taiwan. Super freaking sturdy thing. The lighting modes get really old, really fast, at least for me--to the point of annoyance on days when I'm a bit grumpier than usual. I usually just keep the lights off, but on reactive mode. That said, I'd take a good looooooong look at the competition, especially with regards to pricing in your area. Some of the western companies are stepping up their game with competitive prices. And get whatever switches you bloody well want. Go for whatever sounds awesome to you, and it's never a wrong choice.

Recently watched TTL's Air 540 build, and saw that he had AF120 LED's on his H100i to throw some light into the case. Got me interested. I considered just getting LED strip lighting, but I'm not looking for a bright interior, just slightly visible. I thought that having two LED fans at the top would be good enough with a nice effect. I realize that AF fans aren't the best for a radiator, but how much difference does it actually make? I also tried looking for LED fans with good pressure, but couldn't come to a conclusion by just reading forums. Opinions seem to be all over the place. Are there any good ones with white or pink/purple LEDs? Thanks!

If the rest of your build was intended for silence (undervolted/controlled fans, quieter GPU, SSD/green hard drive), then adding in an AIO, especially the H100i, will make your case louder. Not loud, just a bit louder than all the silent things in your case. Between the two of them, I'd say get whichever one you can find cheaper, which is probably the H100i. Beyond that, it's aesthetic differences mostly. I personally like the idea of the no-frills Asetek plug-and-play, but that's just me.

I have an H100i on my CPU and a Kraken X40 on my GPU. Both are plugged into my mobo's USB headers. Back when I only had the X40, the Kraken Control software worked fine. But then I added in the H100i, and now the Corsair Link software works perfectly, but the Kraken program can't detect the X40. I've tried un/re-installing in every combination, but it just doesn't work. Inherent software incompatibility? Not really a big issue I have to fix, since I don't really need the Kraken software anymore, but it just bothers me that I can't access my hardware. Thanks!

I love me some Beyers. The DT880's are great, just make sure to get ones with lower impedance if you don't plan on getting an amp.

I agree with not risking lower-end audio interfaces. The Focusrite or M-Audio ones (or similar) are the cheapest ones you should really consider if you're looking for XLR/preamps. I'd also advise staying away from USB to XLR adapters for what you're doing. Just as a side note, you should look into metal pop filters. MUCH easier to clean, and whatever "sound differences" people talk about are just simply nonexistent for anything short of professional studio recordings, at least in my experience. If you're going to get a cloth pop, might as well bend a clothes hanger into a ring and stretch some pantyhose over it. Something to think about

Someone quickly shut me down hard if I'm wrong, but since the sound component of HDMI is still a digital signal, there's nothing to go wrong (no potential analog interference) until it reaches your receiver. If you're still really insistent on not having sound coming out of your GPU for some reason, then try the optical out of your motherboard. I assume your receiver has an optical input. Either way, there's no sound card I know of that has any HDMI outputs on the market. Sorry mate.

I've grown to like my M50's. They're not the best in any class, much less their own, and of course they're overhyped to high heaven. I'd never pay full price for them, or even buy them again, but not sounding better than $50 Electras sounds very weird to me. I think you were just expecting waaaay too much. I haven't listened to the Electras before, but I'd think you should be able to hear at least a moderate quality difference after getting over the initial disappointment.

+1 to EmoRarity's input: Recent motherboards have pretty decent sounding audio chipsets. Chances are, you won't really find a "good" soundcard for that 50-60 price range. Even if your motherboard doesn't advertise a better sounding system, a soundcard that cheap won't give you any noticeable difference in whatever headphones you have, unless they're a decently high-quality pair. And even then, you should save up for better.

AT's and Sennheisers are good suggestions. I'd also like to add in Sony MDR-V6 and V7506. Around $80, and I liked them well enough for gaming.