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Makaseo

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  1. I've been using a full-size for a while, but TKL won my favor recently. Excited at the prospect of trying out an even smaller keyboard.
  2. Thought I'd update with some findings: Looked at the SG13's manual, and it seems like a 140mm radiator won't fit the 9.5" GPU after all -- "264mm minus the thickness of the fan and/or radiator" Even assuming the fan wouldn't get in the way, the radiator is 27mm, leaving ~9.3" of clearance for a GPU. Just shy of the 760's 9.5". Shame. Anyway, thanks for the help guys!
  3. Thanks! Yeah I saw this as well, but wasn't sure if they were using a 120mm or 140mm radiator (I'm terrible at eyeballing these). I'm not sure what to make of the mounting holes on that front side, and they didn't list the hardware they used for the review build. Looks like I'm good, then.
  4. I'm trying to move over as much of my current Define R4 rig into an mITX case because I move between home and school several times a year. The SG13 seemed like an awesome option, as it claims support for PS2/ATX PSU's, larger GPU's, and up to a 140mm AIO liquid cooler. Problem is, I can't seem to confirm if it can do all these things at once. Currently I have: - a CX500m, which is the same 140mm length as their recommended shorter-length Strider PSU's - an EVGA ACX 760, which measures 9.5" - and an NZXT X40, which is my main point of worry. - I know I have to buy an mITX motherboard, but I'm trying to limit my purchases to just the case and the mobo. So far I've only seen builds with 120mm radiators and longer graphics cards, or 140mm with shorter or no graphics cards. Can anyone confirm or deny having the SG13 hold up to all these promises simultaneously? If not, I'm open to suggestions of other cases with almost-as-small dimensions. Thanks a bunch, guys.
  5. Weird update: The problem went away on its own. The stuck LED's got dimmer for a couple hours, and now they don't turn on when they're not supposed to. Very strange, but I'm not one to complain.
  6. Yeah, I've tried that as well. Cycled through all the modes and they're still lit up. It's weird, as it's dimmer than the lowest brightness setting but still bright enough to be noticeable.
  7. Thanks, but that was the first thing I tried. Switching cables didn't work, either.
  8. Having a bit of a problem with my Ducky Shine 3 (DK9008). Out of nowhere, several of my backlit keys won't turn off. They're constantly on, no matter what mode I put the keyboard in, at about half the lowest brightness setting. It's just the Z, C, B, >, right Win, right Shift, num0, num2, and num "." keys, as shown here. They keyboard was in reactive mode when I took the picture: Anyone know what might be going on? I discovered the 1.1.8 firmware update but that didn't fix anything. I'd really appreciate any replies. Thanks!
  9. Yeah, 4.2 should be a good starting place. Hopefully you can hit 4.4 and beyond while keeping good temps. I have an H100 on a 4670k at 4.4, 1.27v stable for almost a year now if that gives you any confidence. I had it at 4.6 for a while but load temps were a bit high for me, but obviously there's that silicon lottery so ymmv.
  10. I'll definitely take a look at the Bitfenix fans, thanks!
  11. Pop filters all do the same thing. The only difference is stuff like how easy it is to break or clean. You really can't go wrong with one. http://www.guitarcenter.com/Nady-Metal-Pop-Filter-109270611-i1134867.gc
  12. Please hurry up and finish it fasterrrrrrrr :<
  13. Same thing's happening to my M50's. I'm considering just getting a triple-wide roll of black electrical tape and just covering the underside, but I'm worried it'll make the headphones awfully uncomfortable on my noggin. I might just give up and wait for it to ruin itself, at which point I'd decide it's a good time to buy a new pair.
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