kenblu24

If I may make a suggestion, please be mindful of how much of your identity is wrapped up in your choice of OS. It's just a piece of software, and there's no need to be so derisive towards others just because they criticized the OS you use. I promise you Apple will be just fine without you defending their UX choices.

Does MacOS have the ability to turn off mouse acceleration natively? Because that was a major dealbreaker for me and yet it wasn't mentioned in the video. As far as I'm aware, you can't turn off mouse or scroll acceleration, and requiring a third party app for that is really stupid.

Why isn't there a pouch for water bottles on the outside? I can actually understand why there isn't one; bottles can slip out, it's not stealthy, it would allow zippers to get lost under the water bottle area, wide range of bottle sizes, etc. But my co-worker has a bag with MOLLE webbing on the side, so he's got this thing: https://www.amazon.com/Gonex-Tactical-Military-Drawstring-Hydration/dp/B01J7SZII4 The webbing on the left side don't appear to be MOLLE/PALS standard. Why aren't they? Seems like that would have given people more choices for how to use the bag, especially since there are others like me who would like an external bottle pocket:

Note for posterity: The reviews are done through an independent third party, judge.me, so LMG can't unfairly influence the reviews. Linus mentioned not being able to verify reviews themselves on WAN show; that has to be done by judge.me so any wrongly verified reviews are their responsibility.

Ah. I think I see what you're getting at. I thought this was just about XBone/360 controllers, for which lithium battery packs exist, as opposed to a universal standard for that form factor. Yeah, I gotta agree with you on this; I would love if there were standards for replaceable lithium battery packs. Like, it's especially bad in the power tools department, where each brand has their own battery system. But I think this might be a case of https://xkcd.com/927/, with some extra commercial incentives for proprietary-ness. That said, standard single-cell lithium cells do exist, like 18650, RCR123, etc. But practically nothing uses these except some flashlights. I have a dental curing light that uses RCR123s which is neat though. Yeah, those things SUCK. Just yesterday I was working on these https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2662828, for which we bought twenty rechargeable 9v batteries. Well, guess what? They couldn't handle the load of the motors starting up, which caused the microcontroller to brownout, causing the whole system to constantly reset. I don't think a standard 2s LiPo battery would have done that... That said, batteries aren't as simple as we'd like them to be. I'm sure there are at least some engineering considerations that help explain why there's no standard for this on top of all the proprietary ecosystem stuff.

Yo what did you use to draw this diagram?

Yes, second that. It will probably look something like this: Make sure the one you get has a button on it. Plug it in, take a picture of the lights. Then, press the button, the circuit it's connected to might turn off, take a picture again. This will give a lot more information than our guesswork.

I think Linus said this was the primary reason in a video or on WAN show a long time ago.

Macrium Reflect gives you the option to use a recovery environment. Like most backup software, it's not required to clone a drive, but if you want a bootable copy, I'd still highly recommend using the recovery environment. The last clone I did failed because I did it online (i.e. Windows was still running off the drive I was cloning) and the resulting clone wasn't bootable. I tried again from the recovery environment and it worked perfectly. That said, this is the first time I've had this issue. Every other time I've done an online clone with Macrium, it's been bootable. But to be safe, going forward I'm doing all my boot drive clones offline.

AAs are standard, relatively cheap, and widely available, and best of all, hot-swappable. And you can gauge the charge level by measuring the voltage of the AA battery. Also, all the Lithium battery packs for Xbox have extra pins for communicating with the battery management system inside the pack, which provides a charge level. There's no need to negotiate voltage in this way, and doing so would be terrible engineering anyways since that would imply voltage conversion, which is inefficient and unnecessary for this use case. Microsoft does many things wrong, but they really did try (and succeed imo) with giving you as much choice as possible with the Xbox controller battery system. Slapping PD on a controller would be expensive and inefficient, because every use case you seem to want is already covered by the current system; as an engineer this makes me very confused why you're not happy with it.

Also, there's some #lienus action going on with the middle three controller repairs in the B-roll hehe

Yes and no. Sony might be anti repair by not providing manuals and replacement parts. At the same time there products are one of, if not, the best in class regarding reparability. to replace the PS4 controller battery all you need is a flat head screw driver and PH00. With PS5 controller it takes longer but they made it even simpler and less chance to leave visible marks in the plastic shell. Yes but there's another benefit to AA batteries: You can keep spares and change them out quickly. Can't do that without a battery door. I'm not a controller designer, but GOD NO. USB-C is not a general purpose connector, and PD is meant for charging, not intra-device power connections. I'm not the most familiar with the PD standard, so maybe you could play hacky wacky with PD and get it to behave, but it'd be a waste of technology. We already have rechargeable aftermarket lithium packs for Xbox controllers. Hell, we even have first party battery packs. https://www.xbox.com/en-US/accessories/batteries-chargers/play-and-charge-kit There's no need to use PD as an intermediary when you can just get a lithium battery already. As for your weird use case of extending a battery connection with a USB-C cable, you can power/charge your controller with a USB battery bank. It's kinda silly and would use power while idle, but it's an option.

On the last wan show at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9PcNrhiMUc&t=2802, Linus & Luke complain about how long it takes for Windows to do an update query. I've had some particularly long wait times after hitting the button, but Linus was going absolutely bonkers at the fact that it's not *milliseconds* fast. They even mentioned that a viewer tried the button and it took eleven (11) seconds for Windows to check for updates. Well, it's not instant on Linux either? I tried using a WSL Ubuntu instance to run sudo apt update which is basically the Debian/Ubuntu equivalent of Check for Updates, and it also took eleven seconds? In the image below, it took pretty much exactly eleven seconds from when hit the Enter key on the sudo apt update command to when it tells me how many packages can be updated. I've also had this command take longer sometimes, particularly if I'm on a bad internet connection. Hell, on Elementary OS, I've had the get updates button take waaaay longer. Funnily enough, halfway through writing this on my Windows 10 rig (which I ran the sudo apt update command from), my computer basically locked up.

I don't have the exact model that was shown on video, but that last one is commonly seen in enclosures like these: https://www.amazon.com/IDEARACE-Compact-Tower-Intel-Support/dp/B07QJY899T/ https://www.amazon.com/Kingdel-Fanless-Desktop-Computer-Windows/dp/B01AU7T1NO/ These are industrial fanless PCs, but I've used similar ones as routers running PFSense. On the second listing, you can see an inside shot of the mobo, and it's pretty similar. The main differences I see are that Linus's board has USB 2.0 instead of 3.0, and the ones I found all have COM ports and Wifi. Also, now you know what voltage to give it, and why the CPU is on the back: It's meant to be cooled passively!

... that's why you turn the whole thing off and unplug from power before servicing... Try unplugging it, turning off the PSU, holding the power button for a few seconds, then plug it back in and see if it can turn on.