LionSpeck

You can. In the container configuration, you're able to choose the directory you want to mount as database and thumbnails. Goes without saying, all of the above applies to a NAS, with a containerized Plex instance.

CPU wise I think you're fine for your usage. Don't expect to be running VMs or anything fancy down the line, though you should be fine with a bunch of containers. As for RAM, ECC is recommended, but that'd be a change of platform. 16GB is the minimum but enough: still, the more the better, ARC will eat anything you give it.

Hi, welcome to the forum! I personally use BackupPC on my home server: depending on your client (PC that needs to be backed up) OS, you may not even need a client application, as it uses rsync to copy the data. There is a linuxserver docker image available, or you could just manually self-host it. The configuration UI is a bit ugly, but it is one of the most configurable open source backup solutions that I know of. If you read the documentation or read a couple guides, you should be up and running in half an hour. Be aware that this software uses a pool: you should not try to access or manipulate its backup pool folder manually, but only through its web-based browser. It uses compression and deduplication and all that good stuff.

Why the huge font size? I have your same CPU with a 1070 Ti, and in all games the graphics card is still the bottleneck. You'll be perfectly fine

You should get a preamp; these devices act as input selectors and volume controls. Depending on the model, they may have multiple outputs. Be careful though, that no preamp can drive headphones, unless clearly stated; their output(s) are high impedance, meant to carry signals to other high input impedance devices (amplifiers, headphone amplifiers, active speakers). So, in your case, you'd need a headphone amplifier as well.

This is false; setting the volume to 98 (or any) % won't avoid clipping, it will only reduce by 2% the resolution of your DAC. That 2% volume reduction (a linear scale, then quantized in digital) happens after your player, therefore if you're clipping, you're clipping before that linear map, scaling that distortion as well. DACs don't clip; their 100% is Windows' 100%. The only way you can have a "DAC clip" (it doesn't happen in the DAC, but still in Windows), is if you boost your audio somewhere in your digital path, perhaps with EQ or ReplayGain. Again, since Windows' volume will apply afterwards, this will simply scale the clipped audio to 98%, retaining the distortion. Clipping is a kind of distortion that happens when your signal hits the limits of amplitude of your carrier: - in digital, if the value tries to go above 16/24 bits, or below 0; this happens only if there's some audio boosting happening (EQ, ReplayGain or something similar). - in analog, if the value tries to go above or below the maximum available voltage swing of the audio signal chain. The component that has the lower limit will cause the clipping; generally it's either an OpAmp, or a transistor. This happens if the audio coming from the DAC / preamp overloads the gain stage (very rare) or if you're overloading the power stage by attempting to drive low sensitivity drivers at higher volumes. Typically, high impedance headphones have this kind of issue, as they require high amplitude signals. Power, in audio devices*, isn't limited by current, but by how much amplitude you can get before too much distortion or clipping. *except when you're dealing with <8Ohms loudspeakers and power amplifiers; some amps (especially tube, OTLs and BJT amps) may not be able to drive lower impedance loudspeakers for current reasons. With headphones there's no such problem.

woops, accidentally replied

Hi, welcome to the forum! If your current SSD free space is more than the HDD occupied space, then you can do it without having to delete anything. On the converse, you should either delete some games off your SSD, or delete something off your HDD. When the aforementioned conditions are met, you can proceed with the transfer, after making a backup of everything that is really important. This should always be done, with no exceptions. Photos, documents, etc. It goes without saying that the backups ought to be done on external drives, or internal drives that will not be affected by the operations. Using the Windows Create and format hard disk partitions software (which is preinstalled), you should: - right click and Shrink Volume the SSD (games) partition, to reduce its size. You should reduce it enough that more than 500GB of free, unallocated space is left outside the partition. Make it 510GB just to be sure. - right click and Shrink Volume the HDD (OS) partition, making it smaller than 500GB in total. Again, about 490GB just to be sure. From now on, I can't really give precise instructions, as I don't have any of these software at hand. The programs are pretty straightforward, but if you need, you can post screenshots and we'll make sure you're doing the right stuff. Using another software, like Minitool Partition Wizard, Macrium Reflect or GParted (on a Linux live USB), you should now: - one at a time, copy the three partitions that are on the HDD (the main 500GB OS, the recovery partition and the EFI partition) onto the unallocated space on the SSD. This process will probably take a while. - when it's done, reboot your PC and enter the BIOS. In there, depending on your motherboard, under some section regarding Boot order, make changes so that the SSD comes first in priority. - save and exit, and when you're into Windows, make sure that you're running on your SSD. If that's the case, we're mostly done. Back to Minitool, Macrium or GParted: - delete the three partitions on your HDD. - move the games partition from your SSD to your HDD. - expand the games partition so that it fills the whole HDD. This could take a while. - expand the OS partition so that it fills the whole SSD. This one operation may require a restart, but the program will warn you if that's the case. This, too, may take a while. Now you should have your games on the 1TB HDD, and your OS (3 partitions) on your 500GB SSD.

As you said in your own words: you lost the thumbnails. They are stored, for all files, in databases that windows got rid of to save space. The files are still there, intact. I'd suggest you to free up some space deleting old stuff, uninstalling programs or upgrading your hard drive; running so low on storage can be problematic.

I don't really understand the OS thing... Windows 8.1 is deprecated, almost EOL; Windows 7 is outright dangerous, unless you're using it for a strictly offline retro machine. Why wouldn't you be able to choose your OS with whichever hardware? Am I missing something? About the graphics cards, 2080 Ti > 3060. I wouldn't even take into account possible future upgrades; with how the market is going, and will be going in the future, when you'll need an upgrade you'll see what's available. It's worthless to consider possible alternative futures, when even the present is hypothetical availabilities.

With 250Ohms you really need an amplifier; without it, your PC is just not going to play loud enough. There are also DAC amp combos, which will bypass the motherboard DAC, but you don't really need another DAC, and you could always get a separate one down the line. In that budget there are a lot of really good choices: (added audiosciencereview.com review link) - JDS Labs Atom Amp+, one of the best performing amps for the cost, punching well above its price range. My best recommendation. ASR - Schiit has the Magni and Vali (if you're into cool tubes and can stretch the budget a little bit). Both only amps; I can strongly recommend the Magni. ASR - Topping NX4 DSD, DAC amp combo; performs wonderfully and is also portable. ASR - Fiio has the E10k andd K3s, both DAC amp combos; they measure worse than others, but still great choices for the price. Fiio has also portable units, but they don't perform as well as their desktop counterparts, at least power-wise. - Audioquest Dragonfly, very well-known tiny DAC amp combo, measures pretty good but won't be driving high-impedance headphones as well as other more beefy units. - iFi Nano iDSD, performs ok in measurements. ASR - Audioengine D1, though there's no technical measurements around that I could find. For all of these (or others you'll take into consideration), you should look for technical reviews, going really in-depth in noise, distortion, power, etc.

The thing with IEMs is that they have very high sensitivity and low impedance: they tend to exaggerate the noise floor and all interferences that happen on laptops especially. An amp is really needed for high impedance headphones, which have the opposite problem (they don't get loud enough, need more gain); indeed, as @ShearMe said, you'd be better off with a USB DAC / dongle combo doodad. The most important thing is isolating your source (DAC) from the inside of the laptop, where there's all kinds of noise. Most reputable USB DAC dongles have good isolation from the USB-carried noise, and also have ample power to drive IEMs. On audiosciencereview, you'll find tons of technical reviews (especially those made by amirm, a moderator / owner) with truckloads of information about all sorts of devices, including USB DACs etc.

This could be some setting in the Nvidia Control Panel: either the Display color settings or the Video color settings.

??? What I think @whispous meant is, instead of trying to cheat, look up how to play the game the way it's supposed to. Games have rules to make them fun; if you wanted a sandbox with unlimited access to anything, there's Minecraft for that. What even is this mentality?

I'm inclined to believe you broke something, and you're actually pretty lucky that it even somewhat works. It may be that you broke something in the PCIe instead (ar as well as) in your graphics card. Maybe it's fine and it's your motherboard that is causing problems; only way to find out is to try with another system.

From what I've played until now, story-wise it's nowhere near as good as Fallout; the background given is quite scarce and a bit generic, but there is definitely more of the story as you progress (I just like to take RPGs slowly and explore thoroughly before continuing, so can't really say yet). There are many factions, and some RPG mechanics are well enough developed (character traits, skills, stats, items), but honestly it can't really compare with Fallout in dialogue and plot. On the other hand, combat mechanics are pretty good; I never liked turn-based, and this was really my cup of tea.

Your idea is sound, I would have proceeded in the same way; I personally wouldn't have used Macrium Reflect, as there are other non-proprietary tools to create drive images, and would have used such tools to also check, after the cloning, for checksums. It's not the best of ideas to boot into the clone to test if the clone has worked, because chances are that, if there was an error, you are not going to find it that way. My suggestion would be to use your software again to make a new drive image, then use the software again to check on your clone. Then don't touch that drive again, there's really no reason to. Also, you should create the image right before copying it over onto the new drive, that way it's most recent.

In this screenshot, as you can see in the bottom left value, the paged pool is about 400MB. That is, from what I understand, all the data that is written in the pagefile.

Hi, welcome to the forum! That doesn't look right; as far as I'm aware, the pagefile usage almost never acts like that. I think Afterburner might be giving a wrong reading. You can compare Afterburner's value with what you see in the Task Manager, in the Memory tab.

I've got a quirky game suggestion for you; I got back into it recently. It's called Almost Alive; single player RPG, fast-paced, very hardcore. Isometric view, shooter, kind of early-Fallout inspired, but real time combat. It's still an early access I believe, and although I haven't encountered any bug yet, it's got a few translation typos. Might want to check it out, it's a lot of fun.

Hi, welcome to the forum! One thing about the hardware: you don't really need the graphics card, unless you're doing something specific that requires hardware acceleration, or remote gaming. Here's a summary of the pros and cons of the two approaches: - feature set - With a custom machine, you can do literally anything you want, have any service configured just the way you prefer it; you have total control. With a NAS-in-a-box, you are limited by the features offered by the package (both hardware and software). Look up Synology's offering, and their online demo of the OS: there's everything most people will ever want out of a NAS, but the moment you want something that isn't offered by them or one of their apps, you're out of luck. - ease of use - With a custom machine, whether you decide on Windows Server, Linux (Ubuntu, Unraid) or BSD (TrueNAS), you'll have to configure at least some basic thing. There are many turn-key software packages, but none of them will be completely hassle-free. NAS-in-a-box machines are the definition of turn-key: put the drives in, plug the power cord, turn on and be done. Everything is done from a UI and there are wizards for every configuration. - support - With a custom machine, you're on your own; with, obviously, tons of guides and communities. With a NAS-in-a-box, you have, in theory, their official support, that should solve every kind of problem. If I were you, I'd venture down the path of building a custom machine. That way, you'll learn lots of stuff, as well as be the proud owner of your own NAS, configured just the way you want it.

If you have an Android phone, you should be able to connect it to your Windows laptop (on which you'll have already downloaded your drivers); on the phone, there should be a popup dialog that asks whether you want your PC to use your phone as storage. In case that doesn't happen, there should be a notification that asks what you want to do with your phone connected to the PC. If this doesn't happen either, depending on your brand of phone, look in the settings for this option. When you'll have transferred your drivers onto your phone, disconnect it and repeat the whole process on the Ubuntu machine.

Don't you have a USB drive? You could use your phone as mass storage.

Depends on your budget; I'd say, if you can, get a better router. Both solutions will work either way to solve your problem. Sure, but there's two catches: - if you upgrade the internet plan down the line, you may be limited at that point by the router; - Wi-Fi 5GHz can get better bandwidth than 100Mbps, so using a switch would keep the Wi-Fi devices connected at slow speed. Just keep these two things in mind; if you don't care about either, then get the switch.

Looking at this post on GoPro's website, the bitrate options are 45, 60 and 100 Mbps. You can do the math, depending on the length of the videos; bear in mind, it's Megabits per second. I'm pretty sure these values and tables are good for the Hero 9 as well.