Altecice

Ahh I assumed your m.2 would be empty... You could do what you've suggested but it is quite a bit of effort. As @cekcons has suggested, it may be best to create a 2nd partition on the 1TB M.2. Install your fresh windows installation on that and then within your new Windows install, rename your previous Windows folder Windows.old and let Disk Cleanup remove it. You could then shuffle your data/partitions however you'd like.

Looks like you work backwards using the Raid setup guide for your motherboard: E21331_INTEL_RAID_Configuration_Guide_EM_V3_WEB.pdf (asus.com)

Anyone using the new FTTH network (CityFibre) in the UK will most likely be using Fritzboxe routers as well.

Unplug your drives with data on them, install fresh windows on your new drive, plug the drives back in. You may have to do some cleanup with old Windows folders on the disks but your data will be kept with no danger of it being wiped by a clean install/yourself.

I suspect they stop updating the list soon after first release. Even if they continue to support the board via bios updates I doubt they retest more memory.

What size are you looking for? I'd highly recommend an LG C1/C2.

Yeah the side speaker close to the wall is a bit concerning but I can't exactly do much about it. I'm hoping the "spacefit sound+" feature may be able to compensate somewhat after bouncing test tones around and learning the layout of the room. Thanks for your input, all.

So the room I plan to use for my cinema is reasonably narrow so I am struggling to find the best placement for the rear speakers. I have the Samsung Q990B and the rear speakers have forward, sideways and up firing speakers built in. I don't have the room to place the speakers behind the seating position very much (if at all). So my plan I guess would to be have them at 90'ish degrees from the central seating position or slightly behind the seating position -- check the image link below and feel free to offer advice. My main questions are as follows... Is this the recommended way to place ATMOS rear speakers without space behind the couch? What is the best rotation for the rears in this case? (facing forward towards my TV or tilted inwards to the central seating position, so that the main rear speaker faces the user, side speakers can bounce somewhat off the wall and the up firing can do their thing - as shown in my picture.) *Any other advice about speaker or sub placement is welcome! Many thanks! https://imgur.com/a/r0H7mfb edit: I might put the sub on the other side as that will allow the bass port maximum free air. The lines coming from the rear speakers in my diagram show the direction of the front and side facing speaker.

Wrong forum section... Oops

Hey guys, So I have semi-recently helped my friend build a computer. However, my friend has decided to do a clean install of Windows 11 and has prepared an installer via the official Microsoft media creator tool. The weird thing about this is as soon as he puts the USB into the desktop and attempts to boot from it, the computer wont get past the "ROG logo - press DEL to enter bios". It will just display the initial boot screen as described and then go black and hang. It wont boot to the USB and wont allow you to enter BIOS/Boot menu it just goes black and hangs. If you remove the drive and give it another restart it will get into the bios fine ?! Things we have tried: Prepared multiple W11 and W10 USB installs via the M$ media creator tool - 5 physically different USB drives, prepared on another machine. Cleared CMOS by removing the coin battery from the motherboard. Removed all USB accessories apart from keyboard and USB installer. Any ideas? I'm thinking that it may be a default BIOS setting but surely not? or perhaps a deeper issue exists... Advice is appreciated. (specs: System Builder - Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core, GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB Founders Edition, H510 ATX Mid Tower - PCPartPicker).

Yeah so I've set the SDR brightness (the slider in Windows 11) to 30/100. Much better, I find 0 just too dull/dark for me haha. Do you bother with the AutoHDR setting within Windows?

Yep so I now have my PG35 and its awesome! for sure however, I find leaving HDR on 24/7 is distracting on the desktop with the dimming zones. Makes everything look almost foggy... So I just resort to turning it on via the hotkey when launching a game. Edit: Welp I just played with the sdr brightness and its MUCH better now, HDR stays on!

Backup what you need to the cloud/USB/External drive then do a fresh install of 11. Just go download the drivers you may need (most get installed automatically now but things like graphics card drivers are a must). I use Bitwarden rather than LastPass myself as I find it better (and open source).

Most SSD's you buy today will come with some sort of cloning software included.

Used SAS drives (I know this is SATA) is quite a big market for homelabbing. As long as its not had ridiculous power on times it will be ok most of the time. I've been running used disks in my NAS for years and never had anything go wrong. Just because its used does not mean its bad.

What about other settings such as Wide Gamut mode under the OSD? I assume this setting only applies to SDR content as you mentioned the monitor detects HDR input and switches modes. Although since your revelations above with the .icc profile messing about with your colours, this setting may be useless now that the plan is to just leave HDR mode on 24/7. I feel like I owe you a beer with the amount of useful information your give out haha. Apologies for all the questions (some of them stupid no doubt) but this is my first venture into HDR and stuffs.

Haha that's awesome dude! So basically just leave HDR mode on all the time when using the factory calibrated racing mode? I hear some people find the haloing bothersome and others don't, I will have to wait and see I guess. I think I can just live with it however and use a brighter wallpaper. I can see how having two sets of correction could mess with the colour accuracy as discussed that that article. I'd imagine it might be less of an issue with other monitors that aren't so well factory calibrated.

Awesome that would be helpful. I'm ideally just doing some research for the new monitor get the best out of it. So far its: Use it in racing mode as its the factory calibrated mode. Running it at >144Hz with 8bit mode is acceptable (even in HDR mode). Limit the HDR mode to content that supports the wider colour (Win+Alt+B) Turn off FALD for SDR (turns on when you use HDR mode anyway) Anything else you can say/recommend with regard to this monitor/its settings/HDR?

Well thanks for your input, its been very helpful! Regarding HDR on the desktop, I did a bit of reading around and perhaps might have found a solution. It turns out AMDs drivers have the ability to clamp sRGB colour space baked into the driver (Nvidia does not)... tbh I don't know why Windows is still trash at managing colour. Anyway the point is, some smart person has decided to write a little program to enable it within Nvidia drivers natively. Taming the Wide Gamut using sRGB Emulation | PC Monitors GitHub - ledoge/novideo_srgb: sRGB clamp for wide gamut monitors on NVIDIA GPUs May be of use to you!

Alright, you've convinced me to at least give it a go for the price. thanks! Did you bother to calibrate the display or use the TFTcenteral .icc & settings? I know its ~2 delta from factory but better is always better haha.

So you keep FALD disabled for non-HDR and when it detects HDR input I guess it automatically turns it on yeah?

Thanks for the detailed reply! Yeah I did look over the HU review and both the X35 and 35VQ appear to be identical except the out of box colour calibration being better on the ROG monitor. I was not aware of the issues or them being fixed so that is a positive. I can pick one up for £1575 and to be clear I am viewing this as an enthusiast upgrade only. Its nice to see a review from an real owner How do you find the blooming for daily use with regards to the 512 FALD zones? Are you running 200Hz despite having to drop down to 8 bit colour/smearing >144hz? @jaslion - Yeah I did look over that monitor but IMO HDR400 is just marketing and not true HDR as said in the reply above me (and Linus on many occasions). HDR would be one of the main "points of interest" as to why I want to upgrade./change. I guess I'm not looking to be dissuaded from purchasing a 35VQ I was more looking for "wait 3 weeks as X or Y is coming out and is better". Thank you both for your input however!.

Hmm taking your advice, do you have any other (ultrawide or not) suggestions that may be "worth" it. I was looking at the ROG mini LED display but at like £3k+ its a bit too extreme for me hahah.

Good question! so, my current x34 is capped at 95hz without flickering sadly. With the newer generations of ultrawides supporting up to 200Hz + HDR1000 its honestly an enthusiast upgrade but I hope somewhat futureproof and noticeable.

Hi guys, I'm looking to upgrade my Acer Predator X34 monitor for another, newer ultrawide. I was looking around at the current enthustast monitors and it would appear that the ROG PG35VQ is still the "top dog" when it comes to ultrawides? 35" 3440x1440p 200Hz (144hz limited if you want to keep 10-bit colour) Quantum Dot VA HDR 1000 512 FALD zones G-Sync Ultimate It appears it been the best since it came out in late 2019/2020. Is this a wise decision to go ahead and pick one of these badboys up now? (thoughts and opinions welcome!) I've been offered a brand new one for £1575.