MSharpeWriter

Just CPU, CPU-OPT, SYS1 and SYS2 fan headers. I try to set the Pumps to 100% no matter what. Not a fan of Gigabytes software. The Rad is getting warm to the touch after a 15 Minutes of All 16 Cores at 100% CPU usage. I am not joking when I said I push it hard, it was a render, btw. There's a 5th fan in the BIOS/HW Info but I think that's referring to the one built on to the MB.

I have both a USA Account and a British account on my British PS3 and British PS4, at the same time. I don't see why a PS5 shouldn't work the same as the PS4 did.

I hit a CPU Thermal Throttle incident a few days ago. I think there could be something wrong with my AIO. My CPU Die Temps are usually around 58C to 60C At idle. As I do use this for CPU heavy tasks, like rendering and Video editing, I often push it hard, and quickly hits 90C. I used to have CPU "die block" on CPU fan,while having the Inline block on CPU OPT. When I look at my CPU "Fan Speeds" the CPU reads a 0RPM, and the CPU OPT seems to be full 5000RPM on or off. The SYS1 (Rad fans) varies based on load, but up to 2000rpm, which appears to be normal for said fans.. I swapped the CPU to SYS2, and still zero RPM. I swapped around the CPU die block, the CPU Die Block always reads Zero, and everything else reads fine. Yanking the plug while on doesn't affect temps, unlike the other block or fans. Am I worrying about nothing, or is there an issue that could kill my setup in the future. (I had a CPU die on me over a year ago...) I have a AMD Ryzen 7 5800X CPU. Gigabyte x570 Aurous Elite Motherboard A BeQuiet AIO CPU Water Cooler with 2 Fan slot. (240 PureLoop https://www.bequiet.com/en/watercooler/1961 )

I've been working with 6GB of VRAM since 2016, which is right on the edge of being supported with the assets I have.. (I've learned some tricks to make it work with 6GB VRAM, but I'm more or less using them on a regular basis.) I'd love to grab the 3090, but it's currently outside the budget. I've found 3080 TIs at £450, which I expect the 4060 TI 16GB to be at.. But what ever I do I'm going to stop and save, and wait for the review for the cards. I'd consider Team Red or Blue, if the software I used wasn't locked to Team Green.

I think I'm approaching Apathy.. and I'm stuck on Team Green for my "work." I really can't continue Ray Tracing with iRay using a 1060 and a 5800X.. So planning to go second hand 3080..

I will Just add that the PS3 controller needs to be connected to a console (ideally the PS3 or PS TV/Vita TV) or PC, not a battery bank or "Wall Wart" charger.

Could well be, I've found the photo of the price tag, but it came out blurry. The card is a Gigabyte RTX 3080 Ti Waterforce. I just hope it doesn't suffer from the weak clip.

Whoops, I omitted that from the list.. updated. It's a 850 watt one.

I recently saw a used second hand RTX3080 TI (and a non-TI 3080) at local second hand store. Under UK£500, it's a near the top end on my budget. I'm currently have a GTX1060 6GB, that I purchased in September 2016. I'm considering the RTX 4060 TI 16GB, partly of the VRAM. I personally don't think that the 8GB is too little for the tasks I plan to do. I'm constantly being held back in DAZ Studio with it's Nvidia iRay Render. This Renderer is partly why I'm "locked" in to a Team Green. I'm constantly getting "Out of VRAM" Errors due to the how large assets are, and how little I've got to work with. (I can optimize the assets, but it's easy to turn the image in to a blurry mess.) I currently game at 1080p, but then I am thinking of upgrading in the next year for HDR 1440p monitor. The GPU I saw had a AIO watercooler, which I'm not sure it can fit inside my PC. The GPU Radiator had 2 fans on it. I also have CPU AIO, with a 2 fan Radiator installed in "the roof". Can it fit in my case and keep my GPU cool? (I will "red line" the GPU due the CUDA operations.) As Store is part of a known chain of 2nd hand Computer parts re-seller here in the UK(CEX): Are there any questions I should ask before forking over £500? The 4060 TI was picked partly due to the AV 1 support. For those who run both a RTX and Arc card how easy/hard was it? I'm considering buying a cheap Arc card later, to fill one of the other Slots to give me AV1 encoding. System Specs: Ryzen 5800X Gigabyte X570 Aorus Elite MB (I didn't know about the Gigabyte user account.) 32GB RAM be quiet! Pure Base 600 Black Windowed PC Gaming Case (I think, this looks like it. I did check with the site I got my Case from, or their store.) (I do use the OOD bay.) GTX 1060 6GB (to go) Three monitor Setup. Corsair RM850 PSU

I'm a Kindle Author. While I don't own the Kindle Oasis model, I have older Kindles and somewhat aware of the limitations. I also have many books gotten via 3rd party on my Kindles, as "Documents". (Including test versions of my own books.) The Kindle Oasis can't read epub files directly. Most epubs can be converted, either using a 3rd Party app like Calibre, or via one of Amazon's own converters. The Kindle Store can store "Documents" in the cloud, but with some file size limits. You can't really send Comics over the app. You can use both the app (on Android, iOS and PC) and the Kindle Oasis devices. There's Whispersync which allows you pickup on another device where you left off. You can have a number of devices connected, and a limited number devices with the same book at any one time. How well ePub Book covert will depend on the original file was made, but most books will be able to use some of the customisation features.

I've got old Phenom II PC that I'm about to resurrect for as a server hidden in office shed. Given that the PC is 10 years old, I bought some Fans to replace the worn out ones, not realising they're 4 pin and the PC has 3 pin fan headers. So what would you recommend for me to buy to make the fans work? As for replacements, It's about UK £30 to get like for like replacement 3Pin fans.

You then have never had to sit though a cold boot sequence on a relatively Modern Laptop still running a "Spinning rust" HDD as the OS. I often had enough time to get a coffee and a cake, and eaten it before the log in to Windows screen. I actually have planned to swap this drive soonish, but this is not a daily driver at the moment. My current laptop with SSD is ready before I can complete my order. Yes, I've encountered a few Hot laptop bag moments myself. Most of them where with a Toshiba Satellite laptop from 2007/8, that was barely able to run Vista in the stock format. Fixed that with Hibernate until the Battery dies within minutes of unplugging from the wall.

I'm personally waiting for the 4060.. I'm currently undecided if I should go with 2060 12GB, or 3060 or higher. I really hate not being able to Ray-Trace via Nvidia's iRay on my GTX 1060, due to Vram issues.

Time to throw my hat in... Boosting the Number of Adverts is a really, really slippery slope.. I could see the UK regulator getting involved, which isn't going to be nice for Google's wallet. Plus too many adverts will drive users away, which is not what YouTube wants to do. AV1 while is great.. It's too early to drop VP9 and some other encodings, as I don't think my T460 Thinkpad (with i5-6800U and integrated graphics) can do AV1 at 1080p.

I play quite a few DX9 titles, so Intel Arc really makes me think against it.. However, I really want to know if I could get a DAZ Studio's iRay render using Arc.. but I doubt it, It's NVidia's Render engine. Mind you, I'm half tempted to run this with my GTX 1060.. the AV1 support sounds nice.

Sadly, I don't think it's Win 10 Pro. VNC sounds good. I'm wary of the TeamViewer's Spam makes me lean against it, but I can see it working. I just hope TeamViewer doesn't need the internet while the videos is uploading Parsec won't cut it, It's running a Intel "APU" but we're not playing games: just aiming to do some basic web browsing and basic Windows system stuff.This "desktop PC" has more Laptop choices than I'd like to think: no PCIe ports, 2 Sata Ports, and Laptop memory. (Yes, it was a prebuild, for a grand parent who mostly used it check his email and lottery numbers.)

I'm currently building a PC/Server out of a low powered PC to allow overnight upload Videos to Onedrive and Youtube/other video sites. This "server" is currently named "Not-Whonnock" but I've got other names planned. This PC would effectively be running "headless". While I'd be using the built in standard Windows networking tools to allow drive access, but I'd want controlling said PC to trigger upload. The Local internet connection has somewhat poor upload speeds. Said PC is inherited so it's use or trash. So My What remote desktop tools would you recommend? Some requirements: Local Network access is required. Free. Internet access by the "owner" is nice to have. Smartphone/Tablet app access is also nice to have, but not required. Internet access by approved user (me) would be nice, but not required.

Side Tangent: I recently got hold of a 5.1 sound system for my PC.. and YouTube doesn't support it on PC.. Sigh.

I've got a pair of working internal drives already.. and I may be able get a loaner External DVD drive. Personally, I'm more annoyed at the fact I've got working DVD drive, but the computer doesn't read it..

That PC is not mine to keep, it's actually for family member who doesn't live in the same house as me. Once I repaired it, it goes. And the repair that I needed to do is done. Plus I'd want to keep the fact that many of the CD/DVDs are game disks, I'd rather have it in a form to use. So I'd be force to make ISO many disks, so I'd need to find a few drives to store them.. Sure, some of the Game disks are available as GOG/Steam downloads, but not every game I have is available to buy, and many aren't exactly ones I could see appearing on GOG/Steam. (I'm surprised that Mission Critical is on GOG.) Anyway, my next task is to make a USB drive with a "live" Os on it so I could see if it's the drivers.. If it is, may be it's time to upgrade from Sata SSD to NVME..

It's a SATA Drive, unless there's another standard that use the same type of Port as SATA. I've give the Model and Motherboard info in the first post.

Yes. I should have really mentioned it.. In short, I've got a known good DVD Drive, with known good CDs and DVDs tested on other hardware is not reading disks properly. It just spits them out as being unreadable, despite just the same Drive and same CD/DVD being used on another PC hours before. My Gaming Rig currently does not read ANY CD/DVD. I'm leaning towards a Motherboard issue or Driver issue, as I've swapped just about everything else. So what do would you recommend me do to get the DVD drive working on my current gaming rig? I'm actually surprised a few of the CDRs still work, as they're nearly 20 years old.

I've got a weird issue with my PCs DVD drives. Yes more than one. Same issue as well. I had recently found a pile of CD in storage, that I wanted to inventory and back up. (We're talking CD-R that are nearly 20 years old.) But for EVERY CD or DVD I put in Windows 10 give me the same Error: "Insert a Disk". After a few "duds" I decided that something wasn't right and grabbed a Audio CD that is professionally printed: "Conversational Klingon" same "Insert a Disk" Error. (I was going to rip it.) I placed that Disk in a PS3, and it played fine in the PS3. Same with a Naruto episode Disk PC fail, PS3 good. Normally I would assume that the drive would have died, given that this drive was in a house with someone who smoked. I had a spare DVD drive from an "Old Gaming Rig". Before doing the Drive Swap, I tested the Drive in the "Old Gaming Rig" before I start. All the disks tested worked (Including the Audio CD and DVD mentioned above), including a scratched CDR that I assumed wouldn't work. "Old Gaming Rig" Good DVD drive in the "Modern Rig" but same errors, as before with the working CD/DVDs. I swapped Sata leads around, Still no dice. Hardware (Faulty): Gigabyte x570 Aorus Eilte MB Ryzen 7 5800 Win 10 Toshiba-Samsung DVD SH-S203 (Both Drives are the same - I have been moving them from old rig to new for a few years.) Hardware (Good): Asus Z97-p MB i5-4690k Win 10 Toshiba-Samsung DVD SH-S203 (They the exact same drives.)

I have a: Gigabyte X570 Aorous Elite Motherboard AMD Ryzen 7 5800X (4x8GB) 32GB RAM GTX 1060 6GB Samsung SATA SSD + 2 large HDDs More info on request. I built this PC back in August, and using the GTX and Storage from a older PC. This PC worked fine since building, until a Mid February where the system wouldn't post. After shuffling parts around and then taking system to SCAN* where I had purchased the MB, CPU and Memory. They discovered using their test bench it was the CPU that died. A Replacement was obtained under warranty. After replacing the CPU and putting everything back as It was before I came across a new Issue: After certain amount of time, the Computer Powers down, just as If I was to push the Power switch to force a Power down. This is usually happens under lower power loads. I've run a few ray traced renders using DAZ Studio (Think Cinema4d/Bender tests) and nothing notable happens, and rendered a least 1 Video using Vegas, and it's quite happy with them. The time is between 1 hour to 12 hours before the power shuts downs, Most of the time I'm watching YouTube or general web browsing when the power down happens. That is assuming that I am at the keyboard, as quite a few of the power down where happen when I was out the room. *SCAN is a Large UK PC and Gaming Store, and I live near the physical store in Bolton in the UK.

Am I actually Exceeding it? At the moment? I'm not sure.. but I'm hitting 14-15GB RAM usage under load. I'm actually video editing and doing 3D rendering on it. So I have a feeling it's quite easily be enough to exceed the 16GB I have. I'm mostly doing 1080p content at the moment, but would the extra 16GB help when going bigger such as 4k? I could see 4k in the Future at for this rig. Mind you I was previously driving a i5-4690k hard until last year..