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MSharpeWriter

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About MSharpeWriter

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  1. I Damaged my laptop a few weeks back a Lenovo G50-80 - a older i3-5005U PC. I pulled power socket out of the laptop chassis. I've done some testing and using my iFixit kit and guide, and managed to inspect the internal power cable for damage. This laptop has the Rectangular power plug that is USB-A sized that is also used on many Lenovo's ThinkPads. The power brick is good: tested with a working Lenovo Thinkpad. The laptop doesn't show charging lights, nor is able to boot. Tested with own and said working Thinkpad's power brick to test. This leads me to think either the Pow
  2. The USB is Powered 7 port. Quite a few.. 7 on the hub, Hub plus another 5 around back, 2 up front..
  3. I have a issue with my current setup... Every time I so Often when I plug my Phone or another USB device in to my Powered USB3 Hub, I get a "Not Enough USB Resources" Notification. And Of course the newly hardware doesn't work with my PC. This has resulted in me playing shuffle the devices if I want to use something I don't have connected to connect. I read that this could be fixed by changing the BOIS settings to disable XCHI?/USB3. But I have Elgato Game Capture HD60S which requires USB3. I admit I've filled most of my USB Ports with various devices..
  4. First, I don't own a Xbox 1, so most of the suggestions will be generalised, as But I'll be going with Xbox One games, or available Via Back compatible catalogue. Many single player games should work fine without a internet connection, more recent games may need a "initial" load online before you can really play. Older Xbox 360 and Classic Xbox titles will only require the initial download from the Xbox Store. (There is no online play for Classic Xbox Titles.) I believe that the Forza games doesn't require the Internet connection but will for some modes. I a
  5. As a PAL Gamecube Owner I can say for certain the the 4:3 ratio was used in all the games. The Few games that have a 16:9 ratio started in a 4:3 ratio.. (In my personal Collection only two games I am aware had support, F-Zero GX and Star Fox Adventures.) Another issue is which was still present during this era, was that some games ended having noticeable letter box effect on PAL systems (This was often a side effect of 60Hz NTSC conversion to 50Hz PAL). I'm personally not aware of GC game that this effect, but I've spotted it on several PS1 and PS2 games of the era. Als
  6. We changed the password.. The issue is that the new password doesn't work on the Windows login screen. It does work on other devices, such as logging in to OneDrive on the iPad.
  7. First, playing tech support for another user, so this info is second hand: My dad has a work from home policy, and was asked to download Office 365 to his personal Laptop by his boss. He used is work email address to download and log in. It downloaded fine and then asked him to use Bit locker on the SDD. It was at this time he got called away. But when he came back the lock screen appeared. He doesn't know his personal Microsoft password, mostly as he hasn't used it since he set up One drive on his iPad, a few years ago. After getting a few wrong password tries, he follows the advice on the sc
  8. I am upgrading one of my parents Laptops (A Levono Thinkpad T410/i3 Gen 1 processor) with A 480GB SSD, to replace the ~300GB Harddrive installed. The PC is running Windows 10, but due to the slow disk, it runs slowly. Windows regularly reports that the HDD is busy and it sounds like it as well. I've been asked to keep Everything the same where Possible. I'd like to basically "clone" the Harddrive but also expand the main "Drive" area to use the difference that I gained with the new drive. So how would I go about this? I already have the hardware needed, as I've got a US
  9. I'll throw my hat in the ring: 1. If you want to play PS3 Exclusives, then yes. 2. Do you want to play PS1 titles on a Modern TV without issues? then Yes. 3. Do want to play Console Exclusives that never made it to PC? then Maybe. (Here in the UK the 360 is cheaper by £10, at £60.) Outside of the PS+ games, most of the PS3 titles I went out and Purchased where console exclusives*, with a few Late PS3 era Cross platforms, and those were cheap and where to cover a X games for the Y Price deal. (I also play PS4 online, so I have gained quite a PS+ titles on the P
  10. I'll start with some Basics... The most PS2 games will be rendering at Standard definition, 480i for the most part. There are exceptions to this, some PS2 games and many PS1 games that use 240p, and several that support 480p and 1080i. (With PAL region system and games, different screen sizes are present, but is normal for TVs in PAL regions.) The Cable that came with the PS2, the Composite (White/Red and Yellow) is generally considered to be the poor solution, with Today's Flatscreens. I'd personally avoid this as a Permanent solution. The Component Cable is often one
  11. Look in to it.. I've found that there where 3 Channels.. All three I expected to some degree, but not all on Channel 11. One was from my PS4 for Remote play, the other two are from my Router.. The only one I don't know of would be the new neighbours, but they're on 9 or 8. Disabled my PS4 for remote play.. I wasn't using it, so no loss there. But saldy, I think I need to do some checking with my own connections, as watching a video It stalled twice..
  12. My current rig. is occasionally loosing Connection to the Net or Wifi Nework. I get decent Speed and Ping normally, and then every so often, I just get 0Mps up/down and Ping in the 1000s.. and then after a few moments, back to Normal. It's just like I've disconnected but without the lost Wifi Connection Messages. During this time, this computer can't even connect to my Wifi Router's Status/setup page, via the IP address. I've used my PS4 via Wifi, PS Vita and Wifi-only Nexus 7 tablet during apparent down time, and all appear to unaffected by it. (I use Party Chat on some of the systems.)
  13. As a 3DS and 2DS owner, I'll cover a few things. As most games are concerned, a 2DS is a 3DS with the 3D turned off. Transferring Data to a SD card tool is often used for moving Physical game saves to a Digital Game download. This will be a one way trip, the game card save file is wiped. Most Physical games don't look for files on the SD card, unless it's digital copy. (It's funny seeing the "Don't remove game card while saving" message on digital games.) http://en-americas-support.nintendo.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/73/~/how-to-use-the-save-data-transfer-tool Some gam
  14. Core voltage is around the 1.2 V but bouncing around. Doesn't seem to go above 1.22V. Not having the tools, and risk killing my main computer, is two good reasons for me not do it. I'm using the stock Intel cooler that came with CPU.. which was most of the box that CPU was in. Also, I just did a check, this PC was built in Late August/Early September 2015, Just looked at some coolers, the suggested Coolermaster Hyper Evo 212 is less than I was expecting.
  15. It was kinda a prebuild. I got a list from Scan. I had (and still do) a tight budget. So any place I could save I took it. So all the disks were taken from my old PC, and two of them are on their 3rd PC, and still there. For the first year, I was running a GTX 650 Ti. I really shouldn't have been playing Fallout 4 on a GTX 650 Ti. If it's on be default, then yes. I barely touched my Bios. The last time I was in there was to do something with the integrated Intel GPU. Delidding sounds like a destroyed CPU being possible. It was at about 95% load when ever it hits 99C. I'v
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