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About MSharpeWriter

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  1. I am upgrading one of my parents Laptops (A Levono Thinkpad T410/i3 Gen 1 processor) with A 480GB SSD, to replace the ~300GB Harddrive installed. The PC is running Windows 10, but due to the slow disk, it runs slowly. Windows regularly reports that the HDD is busy and it sounds like it as well. I've been asked to keep Everything the same where Possible. I'd like to basically "clone" the Harddrive but also expand the main "Drive" area to use the difference that I gained with the new drive. So how would I go about this? I already have the hardware needed, as I've got a USB 3-Sata cable and tested the 480GB drive with it. (I'm also swapping the easier to get to ram slot with a 4GB stick. (This model has a second memory stick under the keyboard.))
  2. I'll throw my hat in the ring: 1. If you want to play PS3 Exclusives, then yes. 2. Do you want to play PS1 titles on a Modern TV without issues? then Yes. 3. Do want to play Console Exclusives that never made it to PC? then Maybe. (Here in the UK the 360 is cheaper by £10, at £60.) Outside of the PS+ games, most of the PS3 titles I went out and Purchased where console exclusives*, with a few Late PS3 era Cross platforms, and those were cheap and where to cover a X games for the Y Price deal. (I also play PS4 online, so I have gained quite a PS+ titles on the PS3.)
  3. Sounds like one of few games, but that has several versions of it. Mario Bros or one of the many remakes of it. It was Part of Super Mario Bros 3, or it's remake SNES Super Mario All Stars. The Mario Bros Mini game was part of several Mario GBA titles. The SNES All Start also included Super Mario Bros 2, which let you pick from 4 Characters to play as, but most Mario Bros games didn't let you pick a character. Super Smash Bros series. With 5 titles out, starting on the N64, though to the Wii U and 3DS. A 6th Entry is expected this year on the Switch. I'm not sure if this counts as Old, but Many of the console New Super Mario Bros games is multiplayer, and may let you pick a character, but I've not played them at all. Super Mario 3D World for the Wii U, is multiplayer and you can choose your characters, but this is the newest game on the list outside of Smash.
  4. I'll start with some Basics... The most PS2 games will be rendering at Standard definition, 480i for the most part. There are exceptions to this, some PS2 games and many PS1 games that use 240p, and several that support 480p and 1080i. (With PAL region system and games, different screen sizes are present, but is normal for TVs in PAL regions.) The Cable that came with the PS2, the Composite (White/Red and Yellow) is generally considered to be the poor solution, with Today's Flatscreens. I'd personally avoid this as a Permanent solution. The Component Cable is often one of the better solutions out there. Since the PS2 lead doesn't know which type of connector you have, you need to select YpYbR in the PS2 settings. As leaving it on RGB will make the screen be blank. There are two RGB Standards the European SCART and the Japanese JP21, both are similar and use the same connector, and both are look the same for video ouput. They are incompatible between each other though. The Quality is often nearly identical to the Component. The PS2 to HDMI is pretty much what you think. Some Models won't handle 240p Signals (and you can't tell without actually trying) and I've read some TVs also have trouble with 480i over HDMI. As for the Upscaler boxes, I really don't know much about them, but I've left it to the TV to do the up-scaling. As I said before, Most PS2 games are locked to 480i, so don't expect the game too look like most HD Remasters do, regardless of cable. If you have an hour to spare I recommend watching this video: They cover most of the Retro systems and I suggest that also look at RGB 206 Playstation 1 Me: I use a Older PAL PS2 (One of the Launch style Models with iLink: SCPH-30000) with Component, From there It either goes in to a Elgato Game Cap, or my TV's Component input.
  5. Look in to it.. I've found that there where 3 Channels.. All three I expected to some degree, but not all on Channel 11. One was from my PS4 for Remote play, the other two are from my Router.. The only one I don't know of would be the new neighbours, but they're on 9 or 8. Disabled my PS4 for remote play.. I wasn't using it, so no loss there. But saldy, I think I need to do some checking with my own connections, as watching a video It stalled twice..
  6. My current rig. is occasionally loosing Connection to the Net or Wifi Nework. I get decent Speed and Ping normally, and then every so often, I just get 0Mps up/down and Ping in the 1000s.. and then after a few moments, back to Normal. It's just like I've disconnected but without the lost Wifi Connection Messages. During this time, this computer can't even connect to my Wifi Router's Status/setup page, via the IP address. I've used my PS4 via Wifi, PS Vita and Wifi-only Nexus 7 tablet during apparent down time, and all appear to unaffected by it. (I use Party Chat on some of the systems.) I am using a Ralink Turbo Wireless Lan card installed in my Desktop.. and like most of the other hardware It's the second oldest piece of hardware on the rig, more than likey being close 8 years old. Is this a sign that the card is about fail completely, or has a Recent ISP update to my router done some "damage." While Replacement is possible.. (both Long term and short.) I'd like to find out what's caused it before I need to spend money.
  7. As a 3DS and 2DS owner, I'll cover a few things. As most games are concerned, a 2DS is a 3DS with the 3D turned off. Transferring Data to a SD card tool is often used for moving Physical game saves to a Digital Game download. This will be a one way trip, the game card save file is wiped. Most Physical games don't look for files on the SD card, unless it's digital copy. (It's funny seeing the "Don't remove game card while saving" message on digital games.) http://en-americas-support.nintendo.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/73/~/how-to-use-the-save-data-transfer-tool Some games, can save to the SD for various reasons, usually for Streetpass or storing Photos. I personally know of a few people who have imported 3DS in the UK, and they work fine outside playing the local games . I've even traded Pokémon with them.
  8. Core voltage is around the 1.2 V but bouncing around. Doesn't seem to go above 1.22V. Not having the tools, and risk killing my main computer, is two good reasons for me not do it. I'm using the stock Intel cooler that came with CPU.. which was most of the box that CPU was in. Also, I just did a check, this PC was built in Late August/Early September 2015, Just looked at some coolers, the suggested Coolermaster Hyper Evo 212 is less than I was expecting.
  9. It was kinda a prebuild. I got a list from Scan. I had (and still do) a tight budget. So any place I could save I took it. So all the disks were taken from my old PC, and two of them are on their 3rd PC, and still there. For the first year, I was running a GTX 650 Ti. I really shouldn't have been playing Fallout 4 on a GTX 650 Ti. If it's on be default, then yes. I barely touched my Bios. The last time I was in there was to do something with the integrated Intel GPU. Delidding sounds like a destroyed CPU being possible. It was at about 95% load when ever it hits 99C. I've gone a given my PC a dust every so often. But yeah, It could do with another going over, since the fans seem to be going pretty hard for the most of the time too. So getting some new past on the CPU help alot.
  10. I was watching a JayzTwoCents video, and he said something about Intel and "their ****** Thermal Paste".. I thought for a mo, could my own i5-4690K have issues with Temperatures due to poor paste? I looked at HWinfo on my Pc and saw it hitting 99C on most of my cores and Saw that my PC was being Thermal Throttled. Ok, after watching Linus explain what Thermal Throttling is, I realise that I may have a long term issue at hand. Since I've barely open my PC in the last 2 years, could the Paste have gone off? I've noticed that my idle Core temps have been slowly rising over the years. If I'm going to have to remove my CPU cooler? would replacing the one that came with my CPU with third party help me keep my PC cool, especially when I'm trying to render Videos via CPU? At the moment I'm not sure if I can afford buying a New CPU, which itself may not be a viable long term solution. Can I even overclock? or I am even using some OC with my Asus Z97P motherboard Turboboost mode. (JayzTwocents was talking about Asus MBs in that video, too.) Finally, There's usually more than enough paste to redo my even older PC/media centre CPU heatsink too?
  11. Swapped both the temp and actual folders to another drive that has over 500GB free... still doesn't work most of the time.. Now it flickers like crazy in the first game that works before crashing the game.. sigh.
  12. I've done this: And it still will not work. I click to start the "Instant replay" or any other record option, and it doesn't start, regardless of privacy settings.
  13. I can't get Nvidia Geforce Experience's Share (Aka Shadowplay) function to record. I can get the overlay to popup but I can not get anything to record, or even livestream to my Facebook page, using Share. I don't use Bitdefender. But I do use Windows 10 pro (64-bit) on i5-4690k and a GTX 1060 6GB.
  14. I'm Currently using my old parts to rebuild a PC (My old AMD Phenom II X4 965, with GTX 650), to be used partly as a Movie watching rig for my brother. I'm using whatever I'm not going to use for my own rig, so all parts are used and where working fine when last used. I've got a single 1TB drive and 3 x ~300GB drives that can can fit in the case. Each of the ~300GB are relativity slow (compared to the 1TB) and where used on other PCs before getting installed in the AMD in 2012. So here's my options: 1TB drive as boot and have 3x 300Gb Drive separately, so C: 1TB, D: 300GB E: 300gb F: 300GB 1TB drive as boot and Raid0 the 3x300 drives for ~900GB size and better performance. 1TB Drive as boot and do something like weird Raid mode which puts improves the performance and some what increases size but in improves reliability. Option 1 is easy to do mainly that's what I've had in the past. I'm not keen on doing Option 2, as I know he's a smoker and I've got a few "paper weights"/former Disk drives from him, especially when these drives are over 5 years old, and may end up going due to age. By the way, I'm not going to spend money on this rig If I can help it, we really can't afford it. So what would you suggest?
  15. THE PC GAMER that guide basicly takes 720 Video and just increases it to 1080, and the Quality of the footage is looks like it's been encoded a few times. Going by the date, the only way to get Video off a PS4 was to export it via a internet service, not via USB. Quite a few of the comments echoed my previous comment. I own a older (launch style) PS4, there are no options available to create videos at 1080p in the Current Firmware version, the only options are time or exporting related. There is a major PS4 Firm update due later this year, and they've already opened up a Public Beta signup. I personally think a PS4 doesn't have the hardware to support recording the Video at 1080p30. So yeah, it looks like you'll need to buy a Capture Card, if you're smart, you can find one cheap on some second hand stores. Most HDMI Models should work to get 1080P30 video.