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Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Occupation
    Ethical Hacker


  • CPU
    Intel i7-7700K
  • Motherboard
  • RAM
    32GB Crucial Ballistix Elite DDR4 2666MHz
  • GPU
    MSI 8GB GTX1070 Aero
  • Case
    Aurora R6
  • Storage
    1TB Corsair Force SSD, 2TB WD Blue HDD
  • PSU
    460W 80+ Gold
  • Display(s)
    34" LG 21:9 IPS
  • Cooling
    Alienware AIO Liquid Cooling
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G710+
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502
  • Sound
    Logitech Z623
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro

Recent Profile Visitors

644 profile views
  1. Title says it all, I'm trying to fix an iMac, by installing windows. I got this for the wife (aesthetic is everything), and it has a failed hard drive. I'm trying to "fix" this by removing the rotten apple, and you know, opening a windows... Pun intended. Now to start, it's a mid-2011 27" iMac, macOS 10.13 is the last supported OS, can't use DOS Dudes patcher because of the GPU being unsupported on 10.14 and 10.15, I changed the CPU from the factory i5-2400 to an i7-2600 while I was in there replacing the drive, it was only like $35 off eBay for a used i7-2600, Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound on CPU and AMD 6970M GPU, swapped the failed 1TB HDD to a 1TB SSD, and tossed out the factory install 4GB (2x2GB) of RAM for 32GB (4x8GB) of RAM, bingo bango, good as new. I I stalled macOS 10.13 to used bootcamp to download the windows support files, saved that to a USB drive, installed Windows, wiped everything on install, only Windows, no macOS, on first boot I manually installed the drivers from the bootcamp USB (not using the bootcamp drivers setup), one driver at a time to avoid Apple infused bloat (reboot to macOS button, etc) Everything is working "perfect", except for the keyboard controlled brightness, the on screen indicator goes from min to max and vice versa without issue, but the illumination of the display doesn't do anything, always stuck on full brightness. Second issue is it will not wake from sleep, if the screen times out and goes black, it's game over, needs a hard reset, currently have the screen set to never turn off so it's completely usable right now, but with these models, they're known for the backlight board failing from the brightness being on full all the time. In short, these two issues are literally just screaming for that display backlight board to fail because the brightness is stuck on full, and the display won't turn off haha. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Entirely unrelated third question, anyone successful shoehorn an MXM GTX 1060 in one of these and have it boot? I've seen people successful upgrade the 2009/10/11 models to a MXM GTX 980m but the issues I've seen are related to getting video to display depending on macOS version, which for me isn't on the radar as it's windows only. So.. anyone know if the AMD GPU iMacs can boot into Windows with an MXM 1060 GPU upgrade? It's only around a 3% bottle neck with an MXM GTX 1060 and the i7-2600. I'm trying to corrupt my wife with this "entry level gaming all in one" and maybe she'll get into some more graphic intensive games, and suddenly need to me build her a custom desktop PC.. one can dream..
  2. This is going to be a long post, but I feel like it's better to have enough info than a vague description.. So.. Has anyone else noticed how slow Google Hangouts and Google Drive has been getting in comparison to Skype and Microsoft OneDrive? I only use Hangouts and Android Messages to communicate with people, and when sending videos, I have to use Hangouts (because RCS was too good to be true apparently), but it's so insanely slow, and for whatever reason the promises of RCS having video support is a lie, at least for me anyway as I have sent a video with Android Messages and it being received nearly unwatchable from the compression that Google claimed was never going to happen with RCS, so, turns out RCS is not working and Bell customers in Canada are still using the older MMS despite Google saying RCS is live and working as long as you use the Google Android Messages app which I have been for years. So Hangouts is kind of my only option for sending video clips of projects I'm working on to clients for their approval without encoding the video, uploading to Google Drive, and sending them a link. Which will bring us into our second issue.. But just for a reference on Hangouts send time, I can send a 10-30 video clip, and it takes anywhere from 3 to 5 minutes to send, I've tried on multiple different devices, different versions of Android, I even tried iOS, and always end up with the same result, tried on Data or Wifi, it's always painfully slow. Are there any tweaks for this or is this just a glitch that's been on going for about a year now? Has Google just given up on Hangouts entirely and it's slowly (pun intended) falling down the rabbit hole? Second issue is Google Drive, I edit videos both on the go and at home using Google Drive. I'll do a shoot out of town, upload everything to my laptop that I have with me, start editing it at the hotel or on a plane, and everything saves to Google Drive using the desktop sync client, so when I get back home, all of the footage has already synced locally on my desktop, the updated project file with all of the work I did on the laptop is uploaded, I just have to open the project file on the desktop, and it's exactly where I left off from my laptop, it's seamless, and I can start adding visual effects that would normally be too stressful for the laptop to maintain, then encode the video with the higher performance of the desktop computer. (occasionally I'll remote into the desktop to do this step if I can't make it back to town in time to get the video finished and it's been working for a long time) However, recently I've noticed it's been getting slower and slower and occasionally just crashes, to the point that I nearly filled my 128gb SD card, there's roughly 100gb of footage, I started the upload last night, I'm now at my desktop, and it's still not done uploading from the local files on the laptop to Google Drive, which means nothing has been synced to the local directly on my desktop. This isn't the first time this has happened either. Randomly it will just crawl as slow as can be, and other times it works fine, but over the last few months it's just become slower and slower to the point I don't even try anymore with huge files and I just defaulted back to external SSD's to transfer files from my laptop to the desktop when I'm back in town. Yes it takes longer as I need to backup the footage from the laptop to the SSD, and then from the SSD to the desktop. But it's still faster than Google Drive has been by a long shot. Just out of curiosity I tried sending preview clips using Skype to a client as they used Skype instead of Hangouts, and it works almost instantly, so I tried decided to try OneDrive since Microsoft seems to have Skype figured out, I was sick of waiting for the laptop to finish uploading to Google Drive, so I tried OneDrive just to see if it's a connection issue with my devices/internet speed or if it's Google Drive, and all of the files uploaded in less than an hour, I started syncing to Google Drive at about midnight yesterday, it has synced 53% so far in the course of almost 21 hours.. So, recap.. Google Drive 53% of 100GB upload in 21 hours Microsoft One Drive 100% of 100GB uploaded in <1 hour Why is Google so slow? And why is Microsoft so unbelievable fast by comparison for basically the identical price for cloud storage? Are there alternatives for an all in one solution? (one account for messaging and cloud storage) I kind of hate the new OneDrive layout, it was better when it used to just be a folder I can allocate to a drive, now it's a standalone program and that doesn't really jive with my workflow that well, I can work around it and figure something out but I would prefer to keep Google Drive going as I already have everything set up. So, Tweaks? Mods? Different programs using Google Drive to sync across two devices? Alternatives to Hangouts or Skype? Better Hangouts mods or tweaks to improve send time for videos? Anyone in Canada have any luck with RCS sending video that's not compressed to an unrecognizable level? Any help or suggestions is greatly appreciated.
  3. Nothing about your specs should be slow by any means, if you reboot in safe mode is it fast or slow still? If it's still slow in safe mode, than you have a hardware issue, I would try downloading CrystalDiskInfo and check for failing drives, a failing drive will use all system resources trying to run it though bad sectors causing your computer to basically be completely unusable. If it's fast in safe mode, than you have something software related slowing it down. Which in that case I would try disabling everything at start up and slowly reactivating one at a time rebooting each time to check if said re-enabled application is causing the slow down issues. You can also try disabling hibernate if it's enabled, and then shut down completely, unplug your power cable, push the power button to clear residual power, plug it back in, and turn it back on from that state, that will at least guarantee it's not pulling start up program states from cache.
  4. I found out the program doesn't open on the home screen and I had to click that manually, I found the "wave 2" effect I was referencing earlier, so I at least got it back to how it was before, however, my rear IO is back to being Static Blue, it won't let me change it. I can either have a white rear IO to match the corsair stuff, and I gotta have the motherboard RGB one colour colour at a time, or I can have the chasing effect but the rear IO is forced to be blue lol. Also in the chasing mode, I regained control of my RAM RGB in iCue so it's back to being white. So now the only issue is, how do I use the Wave 2 Effect, but also change my rear IO colour from blue to white?
  5. I have a Gigabyte Aorus Xtreme Z390, paid like $850 after tax for this motherboard, and the RGB software is absolutely garbage, can't say I'm not disappointed by this lol. Long story short, I always had my motherboard set to white and the fans and AIO are controlled with Corsair iCue, however I can't control the motherboard RGB with iCue. Which is why I just set it to white so it's neutral because if I pick similar colours to the iCue software, they don't chase at the same rate, but setting everything up fresh with a new clean install of Windows, I wanted to change it up. Now I'll try and sum this up.. I just installed a new NVMe boot drive and fresh install of Windows on it, installed all my programs and games, rebooted, everything's fine, started setting up iCue to adjust RGB settings on my Fans, RAM, Case, and AIO Cooler, noticed that the motherboard was doing this weird RGB chasing that looked kind of cool so I figured I would keep that, I didn't remember it doing this mode before so I figured it must have been part of the latest BIOS update I did before the clean install of Windows. Not huge on the flashy RGB but it was starting at one colour at the bottom, and then chasing all the way as it changed and I was kind of digging that (it was presenting the entire rainbow starting at one colour at the bottom and going through every colour all the way up) so I was just going to leave it since it was already doing what I wanted it to do, so I set all my Corsair stuff to white, everything was fine, I noticed that the rear IO was not doing anything, just static blue so I opened RGB Fusion and this is where it all went down hill, from the clean install, I haven't opened RGB Fusion so far, this was all just out of the box and the only thing I wanted to do was have the rear IO match the RGB chasing of the rest of the motherboard. However.. as soon as RGB Fusion opened, the entire motherboard, rear IO, and RAM all turned orange.. I tried to change them to custom settings but that chasing mode it was on before isn't even an option, it has a cycle mode, but that just does every LED at once for the same colour. The mode it was on before would cycle every colour at once, it was kinda neat and RGB Fusion doesn't even have an option for this and from other searches I can't even find any information on this mystery mode that apparently only exists if you don't use their software. Also RGB Fusion won't control my RAM, and it's set to orange now, and iCue won't control the RAM anymore either lol. So since opening RGB Fusion, the cool RGB chasing effect it had is gone, and my RAM is stuck being orange and neither program will control it. Any third party options for RGB Fusion? or maybe an all in one solution for iCue and RGB Fusion?
  6. Video is finished if anyone cares for some chill music and eye candy EDIT: Reposted video in first post for lurkers who don't want to scroll
  7. That screw should still fit to hold the heatsink down, the m.2 standoff and heatsink standoff's are the same thread pitch. there should also be like 3 of them in the box for each of the M.2 slots Holy! You really got that 24pin to flex, mine refused to do that, had to do this janky vertical setup when the cable running down because Corsair in their infinite wisdom decided they should put heatshrink tubing at the ends of them bulking all of the wires together, I still have to make a cable mod order as well but the only thing stopping me is that I don't know what colour to go with haha
  8. Took some pictures with that sweet sweet f1.4 lens for all the bokah Here's all of the trophies stacked up Eye candy as follows Sleep mode: Running:
  9. I would personally go with an old Dell workstation like a T3500 or T5500, the HP ones like the Z400 or Z600 use propriety power supplies and adding to them requires modifying an ATX PSU and internal soldering or many janky adapters, you can find decent older i5\i7 Dell T3500/T5500 for around $100-150 and then spend the rest of the budget on a GTX 750 TI, will play most games on medium settings or even some of the latest ones on low if you bump the resolution down to 768p or even 720p. The Dell T3500/T5500 also come with an 80+ silver PSU so you get a lot more efficiency put of them compared to budget builds you can do yourself. hope that helps
  10. This case was a ridiculously tight fit with this motherboard, I originally had the three 120mm fans on front as intakes through the 280mm rad with no fans directly attached, and the two 140mm fans from the rad on the top as exhaust, positive air pressure environment #heatrises. I also wanted the rear as an intake because of how many VRMs and chokes are on this board with no direct cooling with the AIO installed, so I figured some cross wind couldn't hurt when everything was being sucked out the top, but after trying to plug the TWO 8-pin CPU headers in the motherboard.. The 140mm fan on the top at the back didn't fit because of how many CPU power cables were running through there, so I put them back on the rad just because I had them, but I'm going to be replacing them down the road with more HD120's for the top exhaust as opposed to the ML Pro 140's that didn't fit.
  11. Decided to kick off 2019 with a new money pit because reasons. I don't have many pictures of it but I'm planning on shooting a video of it tomorrow (which I'll post here when finished) so I'll snag some pictures during the shoot. Parts List: Corsair Spec-OMEGA RGB Intel i9-9900k Gigabyte Aorus Z390 Xtreme Corsair H115i RGB Platnium 32GB (4x8GB) Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 4x Corsair HD120 RGB Fans MSI 8GB GTX 1070 Aero (my old GPU from the last computer, still waiting for the 1080 TI's to come in) Corsair HX1200 80+ Platnium Adata XPG 265GB NVMe M.2 Corsair Force LE 960GB SSD Western Digital Enterprise 4TB HDD
  12. This is beautiful, I just finished my build lastnight using this same motherboard, I blew all my budget on the i9-9900K so I ordered the same AIO cooler you have there to do me over till I can go with a custom loop. So glad to see someone else using this board, literally the best z390 I could find with 10gbps ethernet! Post more pictures! EDIT: Also, the motherboard comes with a bunch of extra screws in the box, those screws are only to hold the heatsinks down for the M.2 drives, there's a bunch more in the box for holding down the actual M.2 drives. The heatsinks also fit loosely even when tightened down (which is probably why a screw fell out) so I took two spare washers for the screws that hold a fan onto a rad, and put them between the standoff and the m.2 heatsink to stop it from having any play without an m.2 drive in those slots. I also can't remember which slot, but if you use the easiest accessable slot (top one) it disables SATA 4 and 5, if you use the middle one I think? Might be the very bottom one, it says in the manual some where, you won't lose any SATA connectors functionality if it's an NVME M.2, if you use SATA M.2, none of this matters because SATA 4 and 5 will be disabled regardless of slot you use.
  13. This is less of a mod and more of preventative maintenance than anything, but here we go. I have an HP Spectre X360 I use for work, mostly just taking notes, and …..watching youtube videos. Okay so this laptop spends more than 50% of it's life watching youtube videos. Don't judge me.. I noticed during it's very heavy workload of streaming youtube.. for.. business.. the fan pipes up, and gets pretty warm, but nothing crazy, I just wanted to see if I could improve on the efficiency and spoiler alert, huge difference. First off I'm going to say this is not a guide, rather just results, the disassembly of the laptop itself wasn't hard, just tedious, there's a lot of different screws and you gotta remember how much you unplugged inside so you can plug everything back in. I ran an AIDA64 stress test before touching anything, this is straight stock, never pushed this laptop so it should be very comparible to right out of the box, however the first thing I did when I got this was a fresh install directly from the Microsoft website so this is just Windows without any HP bloat, all this has ever done is just notes for work and super official clearly for business youtube video watching. CPU Idle 47.2 Load 71.2 Peak 96.6 Throttling 28% GPU Idle 47 Load 71 Peak 94 Throttling 29% Here is the stock thermal compound, not to bad, doesn't seem like too much as I've seen many times before from OEMs, just a cheapo compound is my guess. Cleaned with generic 99% rubbing alcohol, ready for repaste Not the most graceful application in the world, but I just wanted to make sure all of the dye was covered, I know there's a lot of debate for covering the IHS or just a blob in the middle, but when it comes down to most laptops, they don't use an IHS so covering the entire dye is actually really important, it makes a huge difference if you leave area's exposed without making a decent contact to the heatsink. And finally, the results after all of this, I figured when I started, it couldn't be worse than it was, but I was not at all expecting such a huge improvement, so much infact that I'm making this thread to recommend people with ultrabook or 2 in 1's like this to do, because it's a huge difference, I've almost noticed the fan has yet to turn on during normal use, normally it would kick on every time I'm full screen on youtube, not loud, but I would notice it, so far the fan appears to not exist with this new thermal compound, keeps it cool enough that the default HP temperature curve they have set for this isn't enabling it because it's not reaching a high enough temperature, I've also noticed that the battery is lasting longer, I normally charge this thing over night, bring it to work, I around 6ish hour of full use before it tells me it's dying, charge it up, and then another 5ish hours of use before I'm off work, however, today, I noticed that by the time I was off, the battery was around 55% when normally it's around 35%, so not sure if just random behaviour, maybe I wasn't using it as much as normal, but as of the first day using this with the new compound, I gained 20% battery life and the fans no longer ramp up under normal use. There's also no thermal throttling and idle temps are down as well. The only thing to point out with these results is that the Load temperature is higher with the Arctic Silver 5 compound, but my guess is because the fans were running at a much lower RPM, I would assume that if I left the stress test for longer, it would heat up enough to the point the fans would ramp up to the same RPM as they did before Arctic Silver 5 and the load temps would be lower. So they're mildly higher (within margin of error) but the fans were running a lot quieter causing a 2.6c increase. CPU Idle 31.2 Load 73.8 Peak 93.4 Throttling 0% GPU Idle 32 Load 75 Peak 93 Throttling 0% Differences: CPU Idle 16c Cooler Load 2.6c Hotter Peak 3.2c Cooler Throttling 28% Less GPU Idle 15c Cooler Load 4c Hotter Peak 1c Cooler Throttling 29% Less
  14. I just finished my new build, I used a Gigabyte Aorus Z390 Xtreme and Corsair Spec-OMEGA RGB. The OMEGA came with an RGB controller built in, and the Aorus came with a controller as well, plus RGB headers on the motherboard. So naturally I had no idea which controller to use, but since the Corsair one was already installed in the OMEGA, I decided to try that out, after setup, I downloaded the software to control everything and I noticed the iCue software was a lot more detailed giving me way more options, however there was no options to control the motherboard RGB, so using RGB Fusion for the motherboard, it has a lot of control for the motherboard, however there's no as many options in terms of customizing. I also noticed that the iCue software defaults to crazy flashy RGB on boot and only when the desktop software loads, it pulls the profile I made going back to the subtle colours. So, Does anyone know if there's another software solution that can control both Aorus and Corsair RGB while maintaining the profiles even during reboot? Really the only thing I can think of right now that will work is using only Aorus software so RGB Fusion controls everything with the included controller with the motherboard and the addressable headers on the motherboard. Suggestions?