Imannudein

You know, I had the same scare with my PNY3080. Never mined on and water cooled from day one. Fast forward to early 2022, it started to artifacting at desktop, during idle but never during heavy load like gaming. Checked under reliability monitor and I had a few NVmdmdknl.sys event 41. At the same time, I also had 1 boot where my mobo displayed CPU error code 00 on my Maximus 12 hero z490 running 10850k. Average once every 10 boot. These are the things I did: 1. Update to latest Nvidia drivers: no change 2. Update everything under the sun including windows: no change 3. Enable ReBar: no change 4. Disable fast boot in BIOS: no change Finally, around March, I decided to sell off my Amp Dac stack. It was the Topping A50s/D50s stack connected via USB. All of a sudden my problem was gone. Since I removed the stack, I connected an old FX Audio Dac X6 via optical just to drive a pair of powered speakers and none of the above problems surfaced. I was talking to one of my electrical engineer and he told me there could be some spike in voltage of the power strip or ground loop causing all these errors. I am no expert but (touch wood) none of these problems have resurfaced ever since.

Jayztwocents has had the same problem with a Strix 4090 on an Asrock x670 board. Maybe this is a relatable problem.

@stsmithbased on the picture, it does look janky. But, even Linus has shown in one of this video that you could actually split 1 header to be used with 2 devices at the same time. In theory, this cable should work provided the pins are properly aligned. Contact the seller to give you a better picture of the item.

@stsmith I believe you will need something like this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002059021469.html I'm not sure what kind of USB connector the Cooler Master ARGB controller has, but based on experience, you should have a female USB A to female internal USB 2.0 header cable included.

I see. I have actually run this setup before. Kraken X63 was cooling my CPU and the GPU was cooled by a custom water loop. This was because I bought a CPU waterblock which was too big and clashed with the VRMs. I think you have the AiO setup figured out already. As for the custom loop for the GPU, if you run low power DDC, you can connect to any of the 4 pin fan/cpu header for both power and PWM control. However, if you run a Laing 3.2 DDC or a D5, your pump will need to be powered by a separate SATA connector (or in some instances, a Molex connector), whilst you will also have to connect the pump's PWM, 4pin connector to any fan header or a dedicated Water Pump header for PWM control. On my Asus Maximus 12, I have all 3; CPU_FAN, AIO_PUMP, W_PUMP. Hope this helps.

I am not sure if I understood the question correctly. I've seen water loops with 2 pumps in series but these were custom loops running identical pumps.

You could give OpenRGB a try. Try the latest version 0.7. It's open source too.

Those are good temps. What is your ambient? I have a watercooled 3080 and am posting similar temps to yours. Albeit in a hot tropical climate with AC off.

For gaming, i would go with the following: 1. Drop HE4xx or the new Hifiman SE400 <-- change the cable. stock one are so bad I might use it as cloth hanger 2. Cheap dac/amp combo like the FX audio Dac X6 Mk1, Mk2 or; 2a. Apple USB C to 3.5mm dongle -> male 3.5mm to RCA -> Schiit Magni Heresy or your choice of headphone amplifier that can accept RCA as input 3. Enjoy NB: For me, having an amplifier like the Heresy allows you to scale up later as the budget allows. You may even add a pair of studio monitors or multimedia speakers later. All the best!

Hi All, I have now what appears to be a solid possibility of swapping my PNY XLR8 3080 non LHR to a iGame Colourful RTX 3080ti as mentioned above. The thing is, my current GPU is under a Bykski waterblock made for reference 3080/3090. I therefore seek your assistance for the following question: 1. Can someone confirm if the Colorful GeForce RTX 3080 Ti NB-V a reference type PCB? 2. If indeed yes, will a reference 3080 waterblock work on this Colorful GeForce RTX 3080 Ti NB-V GPU? Thanks in advance.

So I flipped the block tonight. Per below: Temperature dropped a couple of degrees but that could be attributed to drop in ambient or even margin of error. Before: After: In summary, I can now stop staring at the block knowing I have corrected the flow. At no benefit or detriment to the CPU temperature. Thank you all for your kind replies.

I'll try to flip the block at the earliest and report back. I only have distilled water as I have exhausted all CryoFuel at hand. Hence the reluctance.

Thank you guys for the swift response. The thing is, there is no marking on the block for the outlet and inlet. I am colling a 10850k underneath that block though. As for the block itself, there is a plastic, diamond-shaped gateway. based on the picture above, this plastic path will guide the water to the jetplate and the fins from right to left. Regarding temperatures, on Cinebench 23, CPU maxed out at 80C with ambient temperature of 30C in the room without AC. The loop consists of a 280mm plus a 360mm radiators. I just want to gauge, via your experience if it is worthwhile to drain the loop, flip the block and refill.

Hi All, While re-doing my loop, I forgot to take into consideration of the inlet and outlet of my CPU Block. it is a Barrow LYT intel block with no clear indication of the inlet and outlet on the block itself. Picture as attached, the way I have set it up is block inlet on the left and outlet in the right. Did I, indeed reversed the flow? If yes, will I gain much by flipping the in/outlet on the CPU? Thanks,

Dual radiator setup, 280mm top, 360mm front. Front has 3x 120mm as intake Rear has 1x 140mm as exhaust Top has 2x 140mm as intake CPU temp improved a bit. Dust mitigation; top filter (came with the P500A). Weekly handheld vacuum session