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im_an_wizard

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  • Posts

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System

  • CPU
    Intel i7-6700k
  • Motherboard
    ASUS Z170-A
  • RAM
    32GB (16gbx2) 2400mhz DDR4
  • GPU
    EVGA GTX 970 SSC
  • Case
    Fractal Design R5 Windowed
  • Storage
    2TB Western Digital RE4 Enterprise
  • PSU
    850 Gold
  • Cooling
    Hyper 212x EVO
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K95 RGB
  • Mouse
    Corsair M65 RGB
  • Sound
    Audio Technica M50x
  • Operating System
    Ubuntu 16.04 | Ubuntu 16.04 Server | Kali Linux | Windows 10 Pro

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im_an_wizard's Achievements

  1. Alright I'll try to come into it with an open mind then. I haven't bought a gigabyte product in the last 8 years.
  2. Ok thanks, I'm glad I didn't make any assumptions then! You just saved me quite a bit of trouble. Thank you for the insight! Do you know of any other matx/itx motherboards with the display port connection? I'm not a big gigabyte guy but I want to go small form factor
  3. Well, my Intel NUC bit the dust so I'm mini pc shopping. The NUC was my workstation so I need to order a new computer/the components for one today. Does the Ryzen 5 2400G support Displayport 1.2? Is it motherboard specific? I am looking to use MST/daisy chaining with three 1920x1200 displays. I already have a type C to dp cable but I've only used it with Intel systems. The system will also be running Linux, not sure if that's any concern. I will not be gaming on it.
  4. This is easily circumvented by a normal adblocker. You would just add a custom filter. Likely the ads would be stored in their own directory/subdomain so you could use wildcards there. Once something is delivered to the client there is no way to completely control what they do with it. You can try to make it difficult, but there's always a way.
  5. I'm looking to build a budget computer with the following features in mind: Ability to drive 2 4k displays Linux SSD from a brand I trust such as Samsung or Intel. No hard disk storage. 128gb storage or so would be fine. Primary point here is that it must be reliable. Gigabit ethernet Small form factor Air cooling preferred Quiet operation 24/7 Reliable, I would prefer to stay away from Skylake and Kabylake due to their broken hyperthreading if possible Tasks include programming, word processing, and online video playback(YouTube). I am not opposed to any CPU lineup. I'd prefer Intel due to my good history with them; but I'm open to other options like Ryzen 3. Xeon would be neat to look into. I'd like help picking a case too. My primary desktop computer is a Fractal Design R5; but from my experience with Fractal is that they're not necessarily a budget case brand. -Avoid any form of gamer aesthetic with the case. Windows are ok, but not preferred. -I don't have any hard budget in mind; but less than $400 would be amazing. I'm fine with used parts. -I prefer Amazon and NewEgg; but I'm aware that if I go the Xeon route I may have to use eBay(which I hate). If my dreams aren't realistic, let me know. I've only worked with the enthusiast market so I don't know what to do with the trickier budget line. I'm not horribly opposed to prebuilts either. I've gave the Intel NUC some thought.
  6. maybe it could compute a single frame of the menu with enough storage and a few hundred thousand years
  7. I have 64kb of ram, a 300x200 16 color display, and a 1.02Mhz processor. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PygDf6E94o
  8. Used on craigslist you can get them for a decent price. There's one for sale in my area for $450. Guessing it's probably from the 1080 ti hype.
  9. I've lost numerous Seagate Barracudas, I've never seen a WD fail before. It's just from my personal experience, it's not like actual research has been done. I don't think Toshiba drives are necessarily bad, I wouldn't be surprised if they're just a reliable product that's been re-branded under their name. Toshiba seems to do this with products like the Apricorn Secure Key, Toshiba's take on it looks -very- similar. The Apicorn's are sealed with epoxy inside to prevent tampering, so I doubt anyone's done a teardown on both to prove it. Again, this is just all speculation. At the end of the day many products from different manufacturers look similar to eachother. Also if it's in a laptop, I highly advise for him to get an SSD due to their shock tolerance. I'm sure the data on that drive of his is worth a whole lot more than the computer itself.
  10. Turns out I might not need a cable at all, I might just be able to use an adapter card like this: https://www.amazon.com/Funtin-PCIe-Adapter-SFF-8639-Interface/dp/B011YJ7WLK
  11. Thanks for the heads up, I'll check with the seller and see if he has one.
  12. I found a high capacity Intel 2.5" SSD locally for a good price, as in so cheap I can't turn the offer down. My motherboard is an ASUS Z170-A. It doesn't appear that I have a U.2 connector, however I've heard of alternatives like the ASUS Hyper Kit(Amazon | ASUS). I can't find anything about the Hyper Kit including a cable. From further searching it looks like the cable is ridiculously expensive($40) for just some braided wires going from one end to the other. For the actual adapter itself, does it really matter if I go with the official ASUS one or a different brand(like as rock)? Also is there somewhere I can find a cheaper cable? The pricing seems quite steep. I get that this is a more ethusiast/enterprise SSD solution, but the pricing on some of the things just doesn't make sense. (a small & simple PCB plus a cable should not run me $80)
  13. This one is definitely better looking than the HAF Stacker. Having to toss a perfectly good Z170 motherboard, if I want to go with this, does kind of stuck though.
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