kevp453

It's seriously loud and annoying. I also have it in a Thermaltake P3 "case" mounted on the wall so it isn't enclosed which isn't helping.

So, I've been having some crazy loud coil whine and after replacing the PSU twice, the GPU, and purchasing a pure sine wave UPS. The whine seems to come from the PSU and the Mobo/GPU area. At this point the only thing I can think of is to RMA the Mobo. Relevant Specs: Here's the relevant specs: i7-8086k Asus Maximus XI Hero RTX 2080 FE Corsair HX750i PSU 144Hz Asus 1080p monitor Cyberpower 1325VA Pure Sine Wave UPS Both the CPU and the GPU are on open loop water cooling. If I'm going through the trouble of tearing everything apart to replace the mobo I thought I might try another mobo. What do y'all think? I was looking at the MSI MEG Z390 ACE. How do you think that compares to the Asus Maximus XI Hero? Any other suggestions?

Yep. The whine is what prompted the purchase of the UPS. I needed one anyway.

That's what I've been doing. But I've got some really nice Klipsch speakers.

Have y'all ever seen a motherboard cause so much whine before? It's the only part I haven't replaced yet, but I've never heard of it being the mobo before.

I think I just needed somebody to tell me to try the mobo. That's a lot more work...

Here's the relevant specs: i7-8086k Asus Maximus XI Hero RTX 2080 FE Corsair HX750i PSU 144Hz Asus 1080p monitor Cyberpower 1325VA Pure Sine Wave UPS Both the CPU and the GPU are on open loop water cooling. Since building my PC this Christmas I've been having very loud coil whine that sounds like it's coming from a combination of the PSU, GPU, and maybe the mobo. My PC is about 3-4 ft from my head and I just can't stand it anymore. At first I thought it was power so I purchased the UPS. That didn't change anything. I tried replacing the GPU with the same model and that didn't change anything. I've RMA'd my PSU twice now and that hasn't changed anything. I tried some old 600 Watt EVGA cheap PSU and the whine from the PSU wasn't nearly as bad, but I could still hear it from the GPU/Mobo area. I only hear it when frame rates are higher than 60ish, especially in menus. But I like my high refresh rates and locking it to 60 is not ideal. Could it be the MOBO? What other fixes could it be? Help my insanity!!!

I'll second the Ryzen choice. Getting 8 core / 16 threads will benefit you quite a bit if you're recording over the 6/12 of the 8700k and save you a few bucks too.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Intel-Core-i7-4790-Quad-Core-3-6GHz-8M-5GT-s-LGA1150-SR1QF-Desktop-CPU-Processor/202537140814?epid=1937970904&hash=item2f2827824e:g:2aUAAOSwPrtcEu49:rk:2:pf:1&LH_BIN=1&frcectupt=true Only $140 ?

Adam Hear me out! Combining these dead pieces together reminds me of Frankenstein's monster. While the monster is never named in the book Frankenstein, the monster does say to Victor, "I ought to be thy Adam." You are now the Dr. Frankenstein of the PCMR and this is your Adam.

Looking at prices on eBay it looks like a 4790k can be had for about $200 or so. At least, in the US. Now, not having a Z97 board for overclocking does limit some of the potential. As another option maybe shoot for just an i7-4790 without the k? You give up a bit of frequency, but you can get one for around $135 right now. That's still a lot more frequency and you get hyper threading over your current i5. With that extra $70 you can buy some sweet RGB fans.... that'll get you like 10 FPS more for sure

Sometimes, It's the simple things. Also, sweet rig you've got there. Is that the P5 case? I'm building in the P3 with my Christmas build. Was mounting it to the wall easy? What kind of mount did you get?

I used to work from home myself and had the same conundrum of switching between work corporate laptop that had a dock to my gaming PC every day. I also had triple 1080p monitors to work into the equation. I used a device like this to make a one button switch for your USB devices. Get a USB hub to plug in your USB devices and plug that into the USB switch, or a docking station if you want to add audio/ethernet. For the monitors I recommend running them directly to your laptop and to your gaming PC and just switching inputs on your monitors. It's annoying but it will be the only way to get full throughput, especially from your GPU.

I won an i7-8086k in the giveaway that Intel did and I'm just now putting together my system. Specs will be: CPU: i7-8086k Case: Thermaltake Core P3 Snow White Mobo: Asus Maximus Hero RAM: 32 GB of Corsair Vengeance Pro RGB 3200 Storage: Samsung 970 Evo 500 GB and a Seagate 3 TB HDD PSU: Corsair HX850i GPU: Transplanting my GTX 980, but upgrading to an RTX 2080 Cooling: ??? My birthday is this week and I'm getting the rest of the parts to build my computer. I'll then be selling my existing PC and using some Christmas money to get the 2080 and a full custom water loop. However, in the meantime I need a cooler just to get up and running. I'll only be running this cooler for about 1.5 months until I get the custom loop going. So, I need the cheapest air cooler I can get that will keep my stock 8086k from frying. I'm looking at a Hyper T4 for only $25. Do you guys think that will do it, or do you know of a better option?

I'm pretty sure it's up to each game to program that in. If the game doesn't support the Dual Shock natively it won't have the textures in the game to display. PC games made to work with Dual Shock will recognize them and automatically display the correct icons in my experience.

Pretty sure the 115xsbp is the model for that exact metal part that is the CPU mounting bracket and not for the motherboard itstelf. Yes, it is an 115x socket, but that's all to be gleaned from that information. There is a little white sticker above the CPU socket, next to the DIMM slot that looks like it starts "PWA". What else does it say?

I don't know what else you're looking for, but maybe check out the new Moto G6 for $250. I have the G5s Plus and have really liked it. Excellent bang for your buck imo.

You'll probably need to find out which part is bottlenecking your computer. Try using a hardware monitoring program to see the load on your CPU and GPU when you open your games. Also, keep an eye on your temperatures for both. If you're thermal throttling that would cause stuttering and bad performance. Get back to us with temps and some performance numbers and we can help more. With the information you have provided there isn't much more we can tell you.

I don't know now. Think about it. What's the difference to the GPU between a mining workload and a stress tester like Furmark? They burn about the same amount of electricity and put a load on the GPU. While shady, and should have been disclosed beforehand, what difference does it make? If anything, putting that electricity to use to mine instead of just wasted on stress testing sounds very economical. Mining to stress test your GPU? Sounds like a good LTT video to me. I'd like to know the difference.

Where did you download the installer from?

I would guess that the E: drive was an 8 GB Flash drive. That miner is a legitimate mining program. Assuming positive intent, maybe this service center was using it as a kind of hardware test to make sure your computer's hardware was working correctly? If so, it would make sense that they would run the miner off of the flash drive after opening the config file to configure it for your system (e.g. processor and GPU type). Or, assuming malicious intent, maybe they were trying to make a few bucks on the side and that's shady. Regardless, I would back up my data, and do a Windows 10 reset. I would also call/email said service center, and assuming positive intent, question them about what you found. If they are open and honest about their reasons, great. If they sound apprehensive or push back I would hang up, write a professional sounding negative review online with the facts of the case.

If running an ethernet cable from downstairs to upstairs is out of the question you have two options. First, you can go back to wireless. Your latency will go up and will be worse than what you have now. Second, you can get powerline adapter set. They usually come in a pair. You'll install the first of the pair by your router with an ethernet cable plugged into it. The signal then travels through your home's power lines to the 2nd of the pair. The 2nd PLA will have an ethernet out to plug into your Xbox. Powerline "should" help with your situation. I say "should" because powerline's performance is dictated by the wiring in your home. If the wiring is good, you'll get much better performance than wireless gives you. If it's bad... well it could range from worse to better than wireless. It's not going to be as fast as wiring up ethernet cables, but it should help with latency and overall speed. Do not get another router. That would just make things more complicated and probably add more headaches.

Where did you buy it from? Looks like the 1060 models have already released, but the 1070 models have not. The one for sale at Best Buy lists it as a pre-order with a release date of May 6th.

If you plug a display into the server is it outputting through onboard graphics or the GPU?

So, being in the Midwest of USA, how much would you think my build is worth today (excluding the monitor)? Other than selling local via Facebook/Craigslist have you had success selling a custom PC online, and would you do it again? https://pcpartpicker.com/list/jthgtg PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i7-4790K 4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($335.89 @ OutletPC) CPU Cooler: Corsair - H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($99.99 @ Corsair) Motherboard: Asus - Z97-E ATX LGA1150 Motherboard Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory Storage: Samsung - 850 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($139.99 @ Samsung) Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Green 2TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($64.00 @ Newegg Marketplace) Video Card: NVIDIA - GeForce GTX 980 4GB Video Card Case: Corsair - Air 540 ATX Mid Tower Case ($124.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair - 850W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($189.89 @ Amazon) Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($129.99 @ My Choice Software) Case Fan: Corsair - SP120 57.2 CFM 120mm Fans ($23.99 @ Amazon) Monitor: Asus - VG248QE 24.0" 1920x1080 144Hz Monitor ($258.99 @ Amazon) Total: $1367.72 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-04-24 21:12 EDT-0400